Setup Tutorial Series

Hi All,

Setups do not have to be that far out of reach. I've posted this on my channel's "thread" but I thought it might have more reach with a separate post here.

Part One is good for people that just want to default and go. Taking a few moments to setup up your tires and brakes for a particular track/track temp really can make a world of difference. Driveability wise. But first you have to know what to look for and how to change it. The "why", you will feel on track.

Part Two we dip our "toe" (haha) into mechanical grip and highlight what to look out for and what settings you can use to improve (or fix) the car's behavior.

Part three we unveil the mystery about differentials, but at the same time attempt to give you as a better driver how to sense the differential while cornering and adjust them with confidence.

Advanced Setups- We dive a bit deeper into all aspects of a proper setup and will try and pull it all together so you can start fine tuning.

Time Trial Tips feat. The Nemesis 69:
Some basic tricks and tips to optimize the car for one lap performance.

 

Great. Out of curiosity, could you specify what isn’t working? They are meticulously put together to be right down the middle and there is a reason for every click. (And im not kidding about that). Obviously driver preference prevails, but thats much different than “not working”.

 

You’re definitely right. I’m planning an “Epilogue” with advanced tips that will go a bit deeper than the basic framework Ill make sure to include this point.

 

Understood. Generally we’re looking to avoid unnecessary rotation because it adds slip/heat/wear. Perhaps you are trying to brake too late with GTs. The car will “plow” under heavy braking too late. Try a hard brake and a gradual release, you want to applying throttle at the apex.

 

But...if you want more rotation during braking, Increase the coast ramp angle, move the brake bias backwards and soften the front springs.

 

Its the same as power. Less angle = more "bite" = more locking. Adding clutch plates = more locking as well.

More angle (less "bite") will allow more (inside) wheel slip, which we feel as rotation as the outside tire is doing more of the work.

 

You’ll be in traffic and the car will feel lighter on the front and/or the rear and be less responsive to turning and the back will want to step out slightly more than when you are by yourself on track. With low to lowish aero cars like GTs you’ll feel it particularly in high speed turning sections, with high aero cars you’ll feel it at lower speeds. With GT cars, theres just not enough air going under the car for the splitter and diffuser.

 

Updated for the last "Basic" guide. An "Advanced" guide and TT tips, are in the works.

 

I know that ppl have raised the default setup “issue” and I recall from a thread at the Race Department, a Reiza rep mentioned it would be difficult due to the thousands of car/track combinations.

I am not in touch with Reiza about it and probably wouldn’t because I like the aspect of setup development and feel its part of what makes it a “sim”.

That being said, try using some of the techniques in the guides to make the cars more comfortable for you. This is generally enough for sprint racing. For 10+ lap and other long stint races, setups get more and more important.