I state that I bought the game on day one but that I'm only starting to use it these days. I can't understand how ABS works. I'm using authentic setting and a little while ago I was riding with the Porsche Cup. With intermediate ABS values I can't completely eliminate the braking lock, but the strangest thing is that if I set it to 100%, the braking distances get longer exaggerated and the car begins to meander, zigzagging in a very strange way. I am quite perplexed, on rFactor2 and especially on ACC, TC and ABS they behave in a way that is plausible to me, on AMS2 instead I find these oddities. What's the problem? Is it a limitation of the Madness engine? Is the car that needs to be corrected? I do not understand.
There is a FFB effect in the Default profile that kicks off when your ABS is activated. Try turning down the FX slider if the effect is distracting.
Maybe I haven't made myself clear.It is not an effect of the ffb that bothers me, it is the behavior of the ABS that I find wrong.The ABS does not prevent the wheels from locking, and when set to maximum, it makes braking totally distorted, with the car even starting to zigzag around the track.The most serious thing is that, as I said, the effectiveness of ABS is really modest. Contrary to what happens in other sims, ABS does not make braking more effective at all, and does not prevent the wheels from locking.
Can you post a video of how this looks like? The 911 Cup does not "zigzag around the track" for me, whether I lock the wheels at 0% ABS or whether I have full ABS active at 100%. Plus with 100% ABS, brake distances are increased as expected, whereas with 0% ABS you get a plume of white smoke and have no steering.
The zig-zag effect can be more pronounced at higher speed, but I made the video very quickly, without looking for the most impressive images.The thing that convinces me the least, is that with ABS I can't reach a condition where I can go with the foot "pedal to metal" without locking the wheels. There is always some loss of grip. Even with active ABS I have to pay close attention to the brake pedal, on rF2 and ACC, if I want it, I can push very hard on the brakes without locking, and with decent stopping distances. Not here. I conclude by saying that I could easily ignore the presence of the ABS by doing without it. But I wanted to report these impressions of mine. ABS should be an advantage when driving, but in this case it is useless for me. This is the crux of my thread. Among other things, I have not yet verified if this behavior is found on all cars with ABS or only on the Porsche Cup, I will try tomorrow.
Your goal when driving is to not reach the slip point where ABS is engaged. No ABS system allows cars to brake better. Its only a lockup failsafe. Even in ACC they basically have dashboard buzzer letting you know. Also ABS is not a constant reduction in brake pressure. It "blips" when slip is detected. If you are braking too hard and both the front and rears are blipping between traction and slipping, this can cause the back end to wiggle especially if your brake bias is relatively rearwards. Try reducing brake pressure, moving the brake bias a click or two rearward, listening to the tires when they scream in pain, adjust FFB so you notice it through your wheel, feather the brake pedal with your appendage of choice, and brake earlier so that your corner entry is smoother for earlier throttle application.
Great points from steelreserv ^ I would also recommend, try driving for a few months without ABS or TC. Just disable them completely in the menu. Then start practicing your threshold braking. See how sometimes less is more when it comes to braking. IE if you are braking too hard and locking, even a tiny bit, you will take longer to slow down. If you are braking too lightly and not maximizing braking, you will take longer to slow down. There is a sweet spot right on the threshold of locking that will produce maximum braking. You will never learn how to find this with ABS on. Learn how to find it so that you will be braking at maximum efficiency (and are therefore as fast as possible). Then turn ABS back on and use it as an aid in long races (minimize fatigue from having to constantly brake to perfection without ABS), or use it to save rear tires in long races, or use it in the rain.
In AMS 2, the logic of TC and ABS is special. The percentage indicated is that of sliding authorized, accepted. So with the ABS and TC at 0%, that means that no slip is accepted, at 100% it is deactivated. Unless that has since changed, but I don't think so.
If you run ABS at 100 you are effectively not letting the wheels lock under any circumstance, which in turn causes longer braking distances and the meandering effect.(driver aid) If you want no driver aid, ie instant lock up under hard braking =0 The challenge is to find the ideal number and balance for each car. A good example is if you want to mash the pedal 100% between 80-90 is pretty much perfect/ACC abs setting.
