Automobilista 2 Custom Force Feedback - Overview & Recommendations

As you can see from the increasing series of the "force" column, forces below 1600 or 1700 (out of a maximum of 10000) do not produce mechanical movement around the center (even if the impulse is processed and supplied at the output), leaving the steering wheel stationary (see the values in the corresponding row) .... from 1600 to on generate movement!!!!

Ok default seem correct ...
"(tighten_range 0.16)"
"(tighten_falloff 0.0128)"

 

Stakanov's G920-G29-G27 edits of Karsten's Silver Raw - rFuktor 3.2 with his settings of 65-45-55-55 are working really well with my Logitech G25 as well. Thanks to Karsten and all others involved in helping to improve the FFB experience in AMS2; their efforts have yielded very consistent and believable FFB effects across multiple vehicles. Undoubtedly, the forces generated by a G25 are a fraction of what are generated when driving the actual race car, but now--thanks to these custom FFB files--the entire dynamic range of forces at the wheel feels properly scaled down to what my old Logitech G25 can produce. Great work!

 

Thanks for the explanation, @Kuku Maddog .

 

This explanatory text copied elsewhere should clarify any interpretative doubts....

Note: without addressing the subject of Scoop Knee and Scoop Reduction, which is not part of the adjustments within Karsten's file.

-------------------------------------------------
Tighten Center
The name of this can be confusing. This has nothing to do with tightening the wheel
about geometric top center. The “center” for this component means “zero force”, and has
nothing to do with wheel position.

TightenCenterRange
This is the input force below which the output force is increased to remove a deadzone. Put
more simply, this is the size of the deadzone you are trying to remove.

TightenCenterFalloff
This controls how sharply the output force approaches zero force as the input force goes below TightenCenterRange.

Deadzone Removals (TightenCenterRange & Falloff)
Every wheel force feedback motor has a deadzone. A place where it can't generate smaller forces. Some wheel have lots of it. Others don't. Without any calculation you'll be able to see how much of a deadzone a wheel has (use Wheelcheck or FCM).
The following can apply:
DRR = Deadzone Removal Range : You'll set this value where the orange line (Normalized wheel output) starts. You may move that value a small bit (more or less 0.01).
DRF = Deadzone Removal Falloff : Start with something like a 1/10th of DRR and try other values so the orange line (Final wheel output) follow the blue line(input).


How Deadzone Removals translate to driving,

DDR would be how strong the signal gets boosted around TDC.
DRF is how fast the signal boosted to DRR value.
You may not need to use much Deadzone Removals, if at all.
At the other end of the spectrum, if you have a setup who doesn't boost low forces from other settings, a DRR/DRF combo will be needed.
As soon as you use Deadzone Removal Range, you must use Deadzone Removal Falloff. Those 2 settings are tied together.
If you don't have enough DRF, you'll get a squared wave osciallation when going in a straight line. An easy way to tune DRR/DRF is to set DRR like mentioned above, DRF would be a 1/10th of DRR. After this is done, play with DRF until force ramp up quickly enough, without a strong notch, on turn ins.
Just did some quick test about wheel oscillation and acceleration.

When someone picks a given DRR, this is what happends with various DRF:
- No DRF: Square Wave oscillation around center. It can tattle. (It's also easy to see in the telemetry hud.)
- Not enough DRF: The square wave will go away, but you can feel a notch when turning from left to right quickly.
- Enough DRF: The centre of the wheel feels right, no notch when turning from left to right quickly. It can help a bit with some rattling. The wheel should self align by itself when going straight, up to some great speed.
- Too much DRF: The wheel will start to accelerate, before you go really fast, just by moving it a tiny bit and letting it go. Depending on your globals, it may not give enough forces on turn ins.
---------------------------

 

Thanks @Stakanov ! Enlightening.

 

Has anyone come up with some satisfactory settings for a Trustmaster TMX or similar wheel using Silver Raw - rFuktor 3.2 please? Admit to not being good with these tweaks and everything i do seems worse than default (where i am running 60, 0, 0, 0), but has rather poor feeling of the back end. thanks

 

You could try my recent tune for my t300 base. it’s been good for me and quite consistent. you may need to play with gain a bit with weaker wheel.
but that said i’m generally adjusting per car down 20% .
i think i’ve slightly altered this file since but cant recall what and don’t have access on my phone, but nothing major.

edit
Tm settings
75/100/100/0/0
game settings
Gain 60
lfb 0-10
fx 15-25
Damper (ps) 50
5-10

 

I might as well submit my tweak for posting also.
NAME: ffb_custom_settings - SlverRaw-rFuctor 3_2_PeterS_G920.txt
HDW TYPE: Logitech_G920
DATE: 03-29-21
IN GAME START POINT: 66-50-46-58

Direct file link: ffb_custom_settings - SlvrRaw-rFuktor 3-2_PeterS_G920

 

31/03/2020 - 31/03/2021
Many, many, many .... but what can I say, endless wishes to Reiza for the 1st birthday of his product AMS2 ... it was a year characterized by this disgusting pandemic and unfortunately Brazil and all of Latin America have been among the most tormented by this scourge ... but regardless of all the difficulties, it seems only right to thank all the Reiza company which, tirelessly and against all adversities, has performed an excellent work, has developed its own product and has incessantly provided support, updates and accommodation to the needs of its customers ... so I pray @Renato Simioni to receive, on behalf of his company, our most affectionate wishes and to extend them to all their working family, no one excluded ... THANKS REIZA!!!

Last but not least and with the permission of Reiza, I want to take advantage of this anniversary to thank all the users of this forum, none excluded (I don't mention the names so as not to forget someone), but allow me a special thanks to @Karsten Hvidberg & Co associates, your passion, dedication and free support that you make available to the forum, have made this place a refuge where you can forget the daily difficulties and find a little detachment and relaxation.

Maybe today (for us customers) will be a little more beautiful day ... we look forward to the monthly update of the AMS2 game .... and who knows, maybe in the near future we will also have a further gift from Karsten with the its wonderful custom FFB files!!!

BOA VIDA PARA TODOS

 

A gift from Karsten would be great. This file has come so far from the early days. Really makes AMS2 a lot better, imho. Keep up the great work, we all appreciate it.

 

Spoiler

Assuming you're talking about a gift for him, there's a PayPal link on the PC2 files at RD to do him something good.

Silver Project Custom FFB

Ah, I didn't read the previous post Now the gift _from_ Karsten makes a lot more sense.

 

Yes ... is an excellent idea ,,,

Spoiler

My modest thank you is already from him ... I hope others can do it too!!!

 

Made a quick comparison of the FFB between the new default 1.1.3.5 and the rFuktor 3.2 (which still works fine without any problem) ...

I confirm that, even if the default preset is making further leaps, the rFuktor remains and is far superior (personal opinion) ... the default is still improved in FX effects and Road feel, but above all on a logitech basis, there continues to be a huge elastic effect and a exaggerated self-aligning torque both in oversteer and understeer ... and except in very placed and stiff cars, on these cheap steering wheels, with swaying cars, it is a constant struggle to keep the car straight, especially when accelerating, exiting the curve and/or changing direction.

I'm making further minor adjustments to 3.2 which should make the wheel feel better for all Logitech bases ... I hope to have some time today to finish testing and get your feedback.

In the meantime someone could explain to me what exactly the 3 "tire_resistance_timing" represent with values respectively equal to: 0.000 - 0.002 - 0.005??? ... ok in the notes it is indicated:
"#higher for larger time build up of resistance force. Higher gives less friction fell , but also more delay in the steering"
... but what is this "time build up of resistence"??
Is it the time build up related to the increase of resistance in speed?? To the progressive increase of the resistance of the steering wheel during a curve and therefore to the lateral forces?? To the progressive increase of the downforce??

EDIT: Or maybe they simply mean that at the beginning of the curve with a timing of 0.000 it applies the force X (defined resistence1_hi-lo_df), during the curve with a timing of 0.002 slightly delayed it applies the force Y (defined by resistence2_hi-lo_df) and at the output of the curve with a final timing of 0.005 applies a force to the steering wheel of Z (defined resistence3_hi-lo_df) ... and then returns to the timing 0.000 until the next curve????

Thanks in advance

 

rF 3.2 still feels better on my CSL Elite.

I agree with Stakanov’s comments, especially regarding exaggerated self aligning torque on the default version.

 

Must say, I’m enjoying just running the same tune day after day, it’s been really consistent, and I’ve only really noticed a small weakness in gain after update, but that just means I’m running less to no per car gain reduced settings.

The aliens I run with a bit have noticed I’m getting quicker too, so that repetitive consistent feel is helpful.

well done all

 

What are your in game FFB settings? I have CSL Elite also. thanks

 

Thanks for the share, and the work put in with the tweaks. On a t300 here....
Feels great, rFuctor indeed! I could live with the default, but this one takes out all of the rubber bandiness(You can tell immediately you're dealing with a professional engineer here...)
Even passes the 'let go of the wheel' test, where the default one would throw you in a left-right oscillation straight away.
I use lower values on the LFB and FX, but I might play with those yet.
Would you know the whereabouts of the original file, as in roughly what page?
Thanks!

 

you can find in second post on page 1

@Karsten Hvidberg probably needs to have a clean up of post 1 with recommendations.

my tune also has different tire resistance values inspired by alegunner , but I’ve gone more linear steps and it feels well ,, more linear

 

My last rev of rF 3.2 ...

I tried to stuff it as much as possible without exaggerated values to make the file more usable, both for my G920 (obviously), but also for the other logitech bases and so it should be even better for the G29-G27 and G25 bases ... it is very rich and seasoned and I hope you like it ... so in particular:
- a tigthen "range" and "falloff" a little more full-bodied;
- the values on the center and relaxation are a little increased;
- reduced and therefore modified the third tire timing from 0.0005 to 0.0004;
- reduced all 3 "tire_resistance_hi_df" to eliminate the clipping of the formula cars (V10, Reiza, Ultimate, etc.) ... only small clippings remain in a few curves and in very few circuits but not noticeable at the wheel;
- leave all 3 "tire_resistance_lo_df" unchanged instead;
- revised downward the values of the effects (after the last update) which, as a feeling, remain higher than before;
- the gain was not increased (after the update it feels a bit more slack) ... doing so would require an increase in power stering and skip the circle of coherence;
- the lfb brought to median values, increasing it further would create problems;
- updated some explanatory notes in the margin of the values to be set .... I hope I have not written nonsense as my English is not very fluent (tell me);
- etc. etc. etc. the remaining other changes can be seen in the file

Then "Custom" and with this starting value:
GAIN 65 LFB 50 FX 55 DP 55
then, in the car setting, use +/- % of Gain for car to taste.

Note 1: For those very few car that are too swaying and/or with elastic effect and/or with mutch self-aligning torque, if you don't like and only in this cars, try to lower the LFB in the range to 45-40-35 to taste.
Note 2: If it seems too much seasoned, turn down FX.

If you can and if you want, leave me your feedback, not only if you found it pleasant, but above all if it would not be to your taste ...

Edit: Sorry i have re-upload the file for for an incorrect value in the file...

 

So what other title has a 117 page(and counting...)thread on custom ffb alone? This is why I keep coming back here.
I'm going to read up some on exactly what does what in the file, what a luxury when you think of it eh?
I've tried your iteration, since we're on the same wheelbase, but it felt weirdly light to me...
So I ended up with the one from Alegunner68, I seem to have good luck with files taylored for the CSL/CSW wheels. Maybe you should give it a whirl?

Anyway, much appreciated there buddy!