**MODS feel free to delete the duplicate thread, posting here since it seems more active in this section** I am sure all of you have seen the "CONFIGURATION" section within your controller options by now. I am curious if anyone wishes to weigh in, or even the developers directly wish to, on some of the default settings there-in. Specifically I am curious about the default figures of the following seven parameters: Steering Sensitivity - 50 Throttle Sensitivity - 50 Brake Sensitivity - 50 Clutch Sensitivity - 50 The above four all default to 50 which leads me to my first question; Am I correct in assuming that the figure 50 represents a linearity? In other words, is this comparable to say, Brake Gamma of 1 and Steering Gamma of 1 in other simulation titles like Assetto Corsa or Competizione? Throttle Deadzone - 7 Brake Deadzone - 7 Clutch Deadzone - 7 The above three all default to 7. In my own specific case, I am using a professional set of pedals on my rig which are already calibrated from within the Simucube's configurator tool. Actually, within this calibration I have my own baked-in deadzones for each pedal. In other words, I have already accounted for deadzones at the simucube config level. So...isn't it appropriate to simply set the above 3 settings to 0? Otherwise the simulation applies another 7 increments of deadzone to each pedal.. Speaking of calibrating one's own pedals from within the simucube FW, in a typical case I usually do not calibrate my pedals in-sim. I just assign the controls in-sim, so the sim defaults to my own calibration which I described above. It seems to be working just fine in that respect so I wanted to mention that to anyone here, and maybe ask anyone else in a similar situation if they also do not calibrate their pedals in-sim? I have not suffered from the various brake issues which have been described here since early access, so I am assuming it is indeed all fine. Welcome any insight or tips here, happy easter everyone and well done reiza
They don't always default to 50. If you use the default profile for the T300 (my wheel) the brake and clutch default to 35. I have no idea why you would want non-linear pedals, though maybe there's some issue with the standard TM pedal set? I use G27 pedals so I've set all the sensitivities to 50 for linear input. Seems like 7 is the default for all profiles. Like you, I have deadzones set already using the Bodnar calibration app, so I've reduced all the in-game deadzones to 0. Works just fine with no erroneous input. As for calibrating your pedals, I have no idea how the game reacts to controllers that haven't be calibrated in-game. Perhaps it does just take external values rather than using it's own in this case? If you're definitely not having any issues with input curves or sensitivities, then I say keep doing what you're doing.
@Goffik Hi mate, you're on the ball on these forums, thanks for you insight yet again *virtual fist bump* thank you! Indeed mate! As I was typing out my question about deadzones it seemed so obvious, of course, but I figured I may as well post in case anyone else was having a think about it too haha. For anyone reading this I did remove the 7 increments of deadzone from each pedal in game and all works perfectly, that includes the out-of-game calibration; As I mention above I haven't had any brake issues that were reported before the v0.8.2.0 roll-out in this case i.e despite not calibrating my pedals in-game, the sim worked fine with external values only, even before the release of 0.8.2.0 In the case of linearity - I think I understood that for some reason pedal and steering sensitivities don't always default to 50; I too don't understand why anyone wouldn't want a linear response here. Strangely in my case these values did default to 50 under the custom wheel profile (combined with pedals). If I understood correctly, sensitivities of 50 are indeed the same as, for example, a gamma of 1 on similar settings of other titles. hope these posts, obvious as they might be to some, will be helpful to others
I was doing a search on this to try and get confirmation of what the sensitivity numbers represent. There is a lot of good reason you would want a linear or non-linear response. Aside from the obvious (controllers), a load cell and a potentiometer brake pedal will feel very different. Remember, a load cell measures pressure, whereas a potentiometer measures movement. To make a potentiometer brake pedal feel closer to pressure sensitive, they add usually some sort of very stiff spring or rubber bumper. This means that while you're braking to a pressure level, the game is reading amount of potentiometer movement. The distance between zero pressure and half pressure is much farther than the potentiometer movement difference between half pressure and full pressure, due to the quickly increasing pressure of whatever resistance mechanism you have. Perceived half braking force: Pedal/Potentiometer Travel |-----------]--| Percentage of Max pressure |------]-------| At zero, and max, they are the same, but everything in the middle is warped for a non load cell pedal. So the workaround is to have a slower curve in the early part of the travel and a much more rapid curve in the last bit of travel. So, the question now is... is 50 linear? Or is 50 non-linear? For the record, I found that bumping throttle sensitivity up helps a LOT for the high power open wheel cars that tend to lose traction easily on corner exit. It just gives you more room to modulate the pedal more precisely.
50 is linear meaning that if your input device is saying it is at 50% input, the game will output 50%. An exception are the G29/920/923 that use curved brake inputs coded in the wheelbases as they have the rubber/progressive spring, so 50% input is actually past the travel middle point. So for those pedals, it is impossible to have a true linear input without getting a LeoBodnar cable to emulate G27 pedals. Older Logitech pedals are linear.
I guess you mean it correctly. My way of explanation is: If you set Sensitivity to lower than 50 then the start of movement gives much finer control (lower output change) while further movement gives increasingly coarser and coarser output. If you set Sensitivity higher than 50 then the start of movement gives a more abrubt/coarse controller output change while further movement gives lower and lower(finer) output change.
This thread is compelling evidence that AMS2's UI, like most racing sims' interfaces, lacks helpful information and explanations. I hope that Reiza eventually bucks the trend and revamps the UI so that it becomes more user-friendly.
This (linearity) is one of the things that still buzzles me. I guess the right (steering) values (for g25/27/29 owners) are 900 degrees (in logitech cp) and steering sensitivity (let s call it ss) - 50, is that right? If yes, and if - let s say - i want to change the logitech control panel value from 900 (default) to 570, this means that the in game ss should change too? And in what value?
It means (in theory) that auto rotation is off and all cars will use 540°, independently if it is a 180° kart wheel or a 1080° street car wheel.
Thanks Even though what y said is not true (i tested my setup with these values in both cp and in game)
As I said, in theory, as that was how pC2 used to work at the beginning. Could be SMS or Reiza smartified the limited range to only compress the range for higher steering angles.
No I dont think so because with my handcontrolled SRW wheel with between 180-360 degree rotation the Sensitivity thing is working as I described above. Which is 50 gives linearity all the way. ByTheWay: As exact as it is possible I have measured the 1:1 relation between my plastic wheel and the virtual one with a measuring gauge
I think BrunoB is right about how sensitivity works. But for me, default value 50 (not only for this game - this is a problem i face in all racing games) makes the car feel always jerky/abrubt, whether i use 900 or 540 dor in cp. That's why i have lowered it to 42-43 but at the expense of coarser output with further movement (this is obvious in p1, p2, p3 and p4 class)
If you change the control panel max degrees then you should "recalibrate" the wheel in the game's menu - that appears to be how it knows that property of your wheel. If you do that, and then have sensitivity set to 50, you should be able to get into a car, turn your wheel to 90 degrees from centre and see the on screen steering wheel also turn to 90 degrees. If you want "quicker" steering, for example to help with the Monaco hairpin then you can adjust that in the car's setup. The 1:1 mapping between physical wheel and on-screen wheel angle should remain, but the car will steer more / less depending on which direction you alter the setup parameter. What I am not sure of, because I have my T500RS set to 1050 degrees, is what happens if your wheel is set to less than the car's maximum. Anyone able to comment on that? I'd check but I am not near my sim PC at the moment. Edit: A comment from BrunoB above I think suggests that in that case you "lose" the extra steering angle on the car. So I guess if you have a more limited rotation wheel you can use the car setup parameter to compensate.
Yeah I for got to mention that. Because when you calibrate the wheel then the first step where you turn fully to the left is just pretty understandable one - but its the next step where you turn the wheel (cant remember 90 or 180 degree) that is the urgent one. Because the final successfull linearity is dependent of this one.
I honestly dont really know if you "lose" some turning degree. But you could be right. I use the same 180 degree out in the game panel in Windows and then I "undercalibrate" the max turning of my SRW wheel in the calibr menu - by only turning about 180 degree. Because I could turn the wheel a bit further. And then when it asked for 90 degree I turned it ½ of 180 = 90. But I maybe lose something because in as example Monaco I cannot turn enough to get around the hairpin. Haha in Raceroom it was the same in Macau - where I was unable to get through the even tigher hairpin ByTheWay: This "lose" discussion is actually not really relevant for me because in reality Im unable to turn my wheel more than about +- 40-45 degree otherwise my fingers get too twisted on the thr/br up on the wheel that Im unable to any finer thr/br control
