I have Fanatec pedals. Can somebody give me a hint what’s the best way to 1. Make fast start without spinning wheels 2. Ignore fast start and make spinning wheels (burnouts) just for fun Unfortunately I can’t do 1 and I can’t do 2.. I only get slow starts without spinning wheels. I rev the engine with throttle and every time I release the clutch the revs go down and slowly go up while my car is accelerating (but not fast). I thought for burnouts or doughnuts I have to release the throttle very fast but I always get the behaviour I described above. Even if I turn all driving aids (traction control…) off (GT3 cars for example) or if I use older cars which don’t even have TC (BMW 1 Procar for example). Do I have to change sensitivity settings in controller settings menu or what am I doing wrong?
2. Check game settings. Options>Gameplay>Driving assists allowed: OFF. Usually I am on Authentic setting, but if I want to do burnouts I switch off, works always.
Thanx, but as I wrote I have assists turned OFF. Just wanted to know what I do wrong with clutch that makes my revs go down instead of keeping revs high. My starting procedure: I rev up with throttle (right foot) have first gear in and foot on clutch pedal, but as soon as I take my left foot off the clutch the revs go down and although my right foot is still on full throttle it takes a long time until the revs-needle goes slowly up to red area and I can finally shift up to next (second) gear… With this procedure I have slow starts and of course burnouts are totally impossible with this behaviour…
Thanks will try. I think I have it on although I use clutch pedal because I thought I need it on for formula cars to avoid having to blip the throttle. Maybe I got something totally wrong…
Autoclutch has several funtions in one: -Anti-slip on shift -Anti-stall -Autoblip If a car has autoblip and anti-stall from the get go, you don't need autoclutch. Using it will still provide you with anti-slip on shift though.
It might depend on the car? Im finding that with autoclutch OFF (a default setting for me), assists authentic or off, I can get bad starts by spinning the rears in most cars (Or great starts by getting it just right..), but some cars it doesn't matter what I do up to and including shock loading the drive train, those rears will not break traction. Fortunately those cars are in the minority in my experience.
Okay, so if I want to try burnouts or donuts I need to turn driving aids from authentic to off AND turn Auto clutch to off, right? Otherwise I can’t do donuts/burnouts, right?
Auto-clutch won't stop you from doing burnouts on acceleration. Only when the gear engages. But if you shift during the burnout, yes.
I have two question concerning „auto clutch“. 1) If you have 3 pedals (throttle, brake and clutch) it makes sense to have „auto clutch“ turned OFF, right? Otherwise the 3rd pedal (clutch) wouldn’t be used as intended, right? 2) I tried with auto-clutch OFF and now my car starts rolling before the start lights turn green if standing on a steep track, so I have to use brakes to avoid rolling and false start. How do you solve this? Stepping on brake pedal and revving with same (right) foot (like heel& toe)? Or pressing clutch and brake with same (left) foot while revving with the right foot? Or Handbrake? Don’t like the idea to map handbrake to one of my G27 wheel buttons because there are not many and it’s not a Rallye sim…
Think irl, how would your real car react in this situation and how would you overcome this problem? I personally heal toe brake /throttle but a handbrake would be my choice if I had one. Definitely auto clutch off though.
a lot of Racecars do not have a handbrake, neither do they have a "secondary " brake in AMS2. But, RL that's rarely a problem because rolling starts are often the norm, particularly in Endurance and GT classes. Just have a look at the new Corvete C3, the long first gear is made as a usable race gear, not for a standing start.
Yes but how would you limit the rolling on a hill at race start irl? Handbrake and or heal toe depending on what the car has. Sure rolling start would eliminate this issue altogether though.
I use a T16000 as a makeshift e-brake in rally games. For AMS2 I use the throttle axis as secondary brake. But as I wrote, very few cars have a working handbrake. What I do at start, is engage clutch, and step on the brake before the game is loadad, to avoid a DQF for jumping, and only step on the throttle at green light. You don't win a race at the start, but on the finish line, and in MP you definately don't want to be the first at first corner pileup.
No, I just like lenthgy discussions about problems I have no real solution for But it's a fact that standing starts are mainly a Formula thing, while sports car (vulgo: GT) and Nascar series prefer rolling starts. unfortunately, propper rolling starts are unpopular in MP sessions all over any Sim.
Apart from the clutch techniques, which I don't have, in AMS2 you can actually kind of guess when the lights will go green. I'm not sure if I'm right, but apparently the lights go out after a fixed time, instead of a random timeframe as expected, or at least such timeframe is so tight it is not too hard to muscle memorize when to go full gas on the race start. I can nearly avoid jumpstarts vs the AI and get absurd advantage over them, and in online races I usually do ok if there is no sync/lag issues happening just by guessing it.
I was joking...your name, the topic.... I always take it easy against Ai and often just let them go and I play catch up, in MP I always want to get pole just because but then happy to let people pass me, I dislike being without cars in front of me, boring being out front by myself. Personally I have no issues with the clutch in AMS2 or rolling at race start, I just clutch in and heal toe brake and revving ready for the start.
I might be completely wrong here... but I think some race cars IRL use a line lock (I'm thinking of V8 Supercars) which holds the brakes on until the line lock is released. So you can have the clutch in and rev the throttle without the car rolling, then you release the lock, probably via a button, when the lights go green. In V8 supercars they're used at the start and when they're in the pits to stop the wheels spinning while the car's jacked up. No idea if other race cars use line locks though.
