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Tips for tuning Cars

Discussion in 'Automobilista 2 - General Discussion' started by Thommyboy42, May 10, 2020.

  1. Thommyboy42

    Thommyboy42 New Member

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    I enjoy AMS2 so much, but I want to be faster, any general tips for tweaking the cars?
     
  2. Aletdownofstate

    Aletdownofstate Maldonado's Front Wing

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    Depends on how much you know about tuning and how cars handle based on it already, I don't want to insult your intelligence, but If you don't already know, learn about what effect changing things has on the car eg roll bars and over/understeer etc.

    Change one thing at once and see how it feels, rather than messing with a bunch of stuff at once.

    Knowing what you think is wrong (eg car is suffering from understeer in low speed corners) combined with the above is usually a pretty good way of improving it. At least for me anyway.
     
  3. Thommyboy42

    Thommyboy42 New Member

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    hey :)

    totally fair comment. and your righi dont know much about, was just hoping for some tips. guess i just gotta mess around with until i either crash or go faster lol
     
  4. TekNeil

    TekNeil Take me back to the 2.4l, twin 50 weber days...

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    It's always best to first know where and/or why you can improve at a particular point when it comes to car setup.

    My advice is to use your own ghost and run some laps before actually playing with setups.
    Beat yourself first.

    Then when you find yourself struggling to beat yourself, start tweaking. Like I said initially, starting with things you know you can improve.
    For example, if you notice that you're often locking up under braking, or the other extreme, never really anywhere near locking up, or you often find yourself under/oversteering too much under braking.
    Then you can start to improve that area.
    Should you brake sooner/later, shorter/longer?
    Can a tweak of overall pressure show an improvement?
    If not above, can the brake balance show an improvement?

    Rinse and repeat. Know where you can improve, know the adjustment to make (Of course always feel free to ask!), then tweak and test.
    Good luck, but most of all, have fun!
     
  5. Aletdownofstate

    Aletdownofstate Maldonado's Front Wing

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    That's definitely a part of it, but it's being able to identify where you or the car are weak on the track, and what you can do to change it. For example if you're struggling with traction coming out of corners, you can adjust how you work the throttle and team it with adjusting the power differential of the car to give you some more room to make mistakes.
     
  6. TiezZ

    TiezZ New Member

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  7. Madonion

    Madonion Member

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    Brakes is simply the best tune you can do, keep them warm and don't let them get cold or overheat them. Don't lock your tires and don't overheat your tires and you will simply see your laptimes get better.



    Pretty much explains alot.
     
  8. Romeo Foxtrot

    Romeo Foxtrot Active Member AMS2 Club Member

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    By and large, making the driver faster is far easier than making the car faster.

    This is longer than I'd planned but...

    The default setup in the Roco, for example, is good enough for topping the Time Trials at many circuits. The MRX Duratec is possibly faster - there's really not much in it - but it's a tad less forgiving if you aren't spot on. Better for Time Trialling than Racing, perhaps, while you're finding your feet. The MRX Honda doesn't cut it while I'm driving.

    The two easiest circuits that I've found so far are Interlagos Outer (IO), an anti-clockwise oval with one braking zone, and GoƮania External (GE), a clockwise oval with two braking zones. If you want to get faster, get faster at one or both of these first. The default setup in the Roco has a final drive of 3.900, which is enough to lap in the mid 54s. Changing it to 3.692 and it will do mid 53s. If you change it again to 3.450 it might struggle to get up the hill. You can reach redline before you upshift; I have mechanical damage off while we're in Early Access but that might have to change when we reach V1.0.

    A final drive of 3.692 also works at GE and you should be able to break 50 seconds on a Test Day. With traffic and drafting (unless I'm just super hyped by the competition) you might break 52 seconds at IO and reach the low 49s at GE.

    In identical cars the AI will be beatable. In the same class, all bets are off. If you're driving the Roco the P3 Duratecs can reach 49.0 at GE while they can rarely break 50.0 when you're in the same machine. I keep the AI at 120%. At 100%, or even the default 70%, they'll be slower in practise and qualifying but they'll be nipping at your heels as soon as you brake a bit late in the race and have to compromise your exit. And they can bite, too! But racing them will make you faster, winning won't.

    If you make a change to the setup, other than to the drivetrain, at any circuit and the car appears to go quicker, try it IO and GE first. If it's really faster it'll be quicker at one or both of those.

    Turn 1 at GE and Turn 3 at IO are very similar. Brake gently and briefly, snick down a gear and get to the inside kerb before you get the power down or you won't make track out. It might be easier to use a screaming fourth gear than a feathered fifth at GE. Not at IO, where you want to keep V Min in the mid 170s (Kph).

    Turn 2, actually "Curva Zero" at GE, is where to learn the slow in, fast out trail-braking corner. You shouldn't actually feel your foot come off the brake pedal but if you're left foot braking you should already be on the power.

    For Turn 1 at IO aim between the two blocks of flats as soon as they come out from behind the pit wall. Make as little sound as possible from the tyres; every squeal is scrubbing off speed. You might want to turn your Options.Audio.Tyre_Volume up to 100 while you're getting smooth with the wheel. Hug the kerb for Turn 2 while it doesn't add to tyre squeal.

    For the blind crest at GE aim for the shorter palm tree between the last two tall ones until the RH kerb starts to fall away and for Subida stay right of the yellow line. The track will reveal itself before you need to turn in.

    When you go to other tracks you have to work on every single turn the way you've worked on these three. The AI in AMS2 race like they're qualifying and they don't yet make mistakes unless they're bickering.
     
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  9. Andy-R

    Andy-R Active Member AMS2 Club Member

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    I'm not skilled at setup work but I've been trying to tune some oversteer into the OldStock, so far I have rear ARB 1 click off max and I think max stiff rear springs. It still grips and understeers sometimes when I'm trying to rotate it though so I need to find something else. Not sure whether to try neg rear toe (will alter braking for the worse I guess) or to up the rear tyre pressures (no idea if there is a way to tell what is optimum pressure in AMS2 or if it is as important as optimum temp, I'm guessing those tyres have quite a wide operating window temp wise anyway.) Front camber can be adjusted but not rear and dampers scare me... any tips? :p
     
  10. Thommyboy42

    Thommyboy42 New Member

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    yeah i know about breaking, i think that has to be my next upgrade, to get away from the T3PA pedals.....
     
  11. Thommyboy42

    Thommyboy42 New Member

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    right now i am stupid and trying to tame a beast lol.... the sigma P1, it really is a monster but fun, and thanks for your replys and tips, will try to tweak some stuff and see if i get better or i still suck lol
     
  12. Aletdownofstate

    Aletdownofstate Maldonado's Front Wing

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    Turn down the differential if you're finding it a bit lively.
     
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