Automobilista 2 Custom Force Feedback - Overview & Recommendations

@Clippy2020 Good deal, glad you found something that works for you. That's what matters most!

The new update is live and another big long-standing bug is ironed out (that's REALLY apparent with some of the Custom files and can't be corrected by them):

Fixed curbs pulling inverse way on cars where steering arms are "behind" steering axis.
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Another win for Reiza!

 

I dont get it ?
How do you even turn the wheel at these high gain settings.
My T300rs cant be rotated around a corner without feeling like its about to snap.

 

most run around default 75 , i think he even mentioned running 100 gain in control panel in another post. which is even stronger and not recommended for longevity.

 

logically it the same I guess, either way it’s surprising how heavy some like the wheel. I’m sure you lose small information details too and have slower transitions , But each to their own.

I do wonder if the wheels in regions that have lower voltage produce less grunt, but would have thought the power supply after transformer is the same.

 

Actually, it is official from TM that if you run the settings higher than the default settings it will decrease the lifespan of the wheel. I'm certainly not telling you not to, but just wanted to clarify that bit up (I've seen the official FB post, but I'm not sure if I have a link saved anywhere for it). If you do though, you will want to ensure that you have the fans set to be always on.

On another note, is it just me or do the Porsche cars just not feel right? On the previous update, I was loving the GT3 R, but I just can't get it to feel right at all. I'm completely disconnected from what I'm feeling and seeing with it now.

 

75% for the overall setting in the Thrustmaster panel is better for the linearity, it's not at all first about the longevity :



here you have a good post about this, one guy at 100% vs one other at 75%
TS-PC FFB settings : iRacing

75% supporter guy :
"I've decided to dig through the WheelCheck thread on iRacing forum and David Tucker also confirms, that ramping up the wheel to 100% is a bad idea. Read from this post onwards:

https://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/1775/3260458.page#10722112

Setting force up to 100% simply makes the wheel maxing up earlier than at 100% input force. Quote from later post:

" I have tested a wheel very similar to the TS-PC and can say that it does not need any min force at all, for that matter it does not need a force map profile either.

This wheel is very linear, as long as you set it to the default of 75% force in the driver. The picture 3 posts above should give you a good sense of what happens when you set things to 100% in the driver, you can guess that this is not a good idea

So basically:
- Take the defaults in the driver
- Calibrate in iRacing
- Take the defaults in iRacing
- Run a clean lap and hit the auto button in the F9 black box to set the forces up optimally.

That is it, nothing else needs to change. Just use the auto button when changing from car to car and you will be fine. "

And this is the clue . The only thing you should really change in drivers on this wheel is setting degrees rotation to 1080 , but be aware, that hitting Default button reset force to 60% while for TS-PC it should be 75%."

And then the 100% supporter has changed his mind :

"Hey man, just wanted to say I've been running 75% but linear mode (I tried non linear but it just didn't feel as logical), two clicks down from auto in the VRS sprint series this week at Tsukuba, and I have been racing very well.

I feel you're right about the linearity. I spent some time and realized with it at 75, while initially it feels very light, the information is much clearer. I know exactly what the car is up to and how to counter steer.

You can definitely drive non linearly, but catching the odd slide can be an enigmatic process. Now the picture is very clear in my mind what the feeling of the wheel is telling me.

Thanks again for digging up this old post and arguing it out lol."

I have tested, and at 75%, it's linear, unlike at 100%, so yes 75% is better, first about the linearity.

 

Yes I agree, I’ve used some curve calculation programs and find that the T300 benefits from some calculated scoop and knee to further increase linearity.
You can actually put these into the scrub scoop setting in the custom file for good results. Calms the spikes a bit.

 

Interesting information reg. the Thrustmaster wheel bases, for sure
Also interesting developments on the "Default" ffb settings. It seems to be in a somewhat experimental phase with some things getting better & others worse between each release & it's great news, I think, as it points to very active development on that now. This last one does not feel batter to me, generally, than the one from a few weeks back, but some things have changed, so prob. something is better & something is much worse. Really looking forward to the next one now.

In the meantime, here's an updated file, direct link: https://forum.reizastudios.com/attachments/silver-raw-6-6-5-9-9-9-9-9-4-zip.10822/

Now off to support Reiza by purchasing the Nords pack. Fan of the track, but I'm only ever buying that track to support the studios, since I've never had a great multiplayer race on it in my life

 

I am using the modified file and I must say that it is great, one question: why too much difference in FFB between Porsche GT3 and McLaren GT3? the Mc is perfect, the mixed Porsche ... it's not as detailed as the Mc ... it's a shame because a huge job has been done.

 

Hey Donato,

Can you describe how they are different/what is missing?
There are general comments reg. people not liking the Porsches feel in the Default ffb as well, I noticed.
But maybe something can be done, if I know which details are not so good.

 

Sorry, there was a bug in versions 6-6-5-9-9-9-9-9-1/6-6-5-9-9-9-9-9-2/6-6-5-9-9-9-9-9-3.

@Michael Enright , this explains the issue you felt with that file. Unf. I only just noticed what the problem was now.

If anybody is using one of those files, then remove these 3 lines:
(FL_load (- FL_load load_norm_wheel))
(FL_load (* FL_load 0.5))
(FL_load (+ FL_load load_norm_wheel))


New version just posted that fixes it: https://forum.reizastudios.com/attachments/silver-raw-6-6-5-9-9-9-9-9-4-zip.10822/

This one works different in reg. to the LFB than prior versions. It is much better at adjusting the center feel vs the high forces on cornering.

If your center is too vague: Adjust "LFB" up.
If your cornering is too strong: Adjust "LFB" up & adjust "gain" down.
If your cornering is too weak: Adjust "LFB" down & adjust "gain" up.

 

the one of the mclaren is much cleaner, more direct, the porsche one seems mellow, the car does not respond well, it is not fast and responsive. now i try as you say the default ... it would be great if it was like the MC.

Thanks

 

One thing i tried last night and i quite liked.
I switched to default custom file in game. it already feels different to default ( aren’t they ment to be the same if not modified) . Then I turn off the scrub fx in the file ( using # at start of lines for those unfamiliar with custom files ) .
so now i’m just getting signal from SETA tire feel.
it’s much smoother and can feel grip better.
doesn’t solve the bounce problem of porsche’s though , that’s the physics of the way Reiza have them set up , the tires feel like Nolathane bushes.

 

Hey Easy81,

I'm not quite sure, will have to take a look, is there a specific car that's doing it really badly?

 

Agree with this - a few versions ago the ffb on DD" was a revelation but it somehow didn't translate into the public build