Automobilista 2 Custom Force Feedback - Overview & Recommendations

Yes I've been following the same advice and have my T500 control panel gain set to 60

 

If it does not feel as good to you as those on your wheel base, then I think the adjustments have some ways to go in your case.
From a real-feeling perspective, on my DD wheel base, only rf2 has an edge in certain ways & this file has an edge in other ways. But the others don't really come close.

Of course the file is hugely adjusted to how a few individuals as well as I prefer it, so that might be part of the explanation (From how a feeling point of view only, not the actual game physics).

I do think the low file settings need tweaking for the g-series, also this was posted by @TheNormalOne earlier: Automobilista 2 Custom Force Feedback - Overview & Recommendations
Unfortunately I am unable to adjust to the g-series myself, so can only put in the low file what you guys tells me should go there

 

I agree, they prob. would much rather fix the underlying physics issues, which makes a lot of sense. It might be the case those can be fixed soon and then no need for them to care much about this work here.
If so, that would be good to know for us as well, just some kind of notice to some of us would be nice
On the other hand, if the physics fixes will take a long time, Reiza would benefit from simply helping us make the file the best it can be & then take it & use as Default or another Default, so they could keep on working 99% on the physics instead.
That is where the real battle lies, as far as I am concerned, but meanwhile no need to not have as good FFB as possible, specially when it comes for free.

 

@Not_DrRyan

I would be happy to make some changes in the file to see if we can cater better for G-series, can you describe which car & which sensation are not so good?

 

Hey Karsten , Good job on the custom file mate ,,,

I was just wondering if i want to add slightly more engine vibes or maybe road feel on the tyres what would i need to adjust in the custom file ?

cheers dude.

 

Hey Steve,

There are values in there:
(engine_scale_at_still 0.7)
(engine_scale_at_speed 0.0)

so you simply adjust those up, if you want more.
Road feel on tyres is mostly:
(track_bump_scale 0.2)
and
(details_scale 0.4)

-K

 

Cheers Karsten i'll have a play with those laters .

 

Tested 'The King' both version .36 and .37, and they feel very good on most cars, but the Formula Ultimate is downright scary :|
It feels like if I let go of the wheel just for a split second it's going to shake itself to death...

Could anyone else with a Fanatec DD1 or DD2 please take the Formula Ultimate for a spin at Spa and tell my what they think?

My settings are:
In game: Gain 30, LFB 3, FX 50, Damping 50-100 (doesn't seem to make much difference)
Fanalab: FF 75%, Damper/Friction/Inertia all at 0%, FEI 70.

 

Karsten, Your new .37 king release fixed the T500 grainy bump FX issue in the MidLevel file
and feels great!

I'm finding that I prefer the HighEnd for the T500, definitely would recommend to folks to try both Mid and High to see what you like better.

HighEnd on the Simucube2 is fantastic!

 

Torstein,
If you're interested it might help to adjust "limit_high_df" up to 1.0.
It will limit the range of the df, which is helpful for that car 8)

 

Damn FF 75% , maybe thats the reason it shakes on DD1 I think I use 55 or 60 max, with similar ingame gain to yours 25-30, lfb 8. Some natural friction on the base, no base damper.

Tbh there is no real reason to run super high torque, modern formula cars dont have stiff/strong steering (drove a formula renault 2.0 irl)

 

mistake

 

If I have not read it wrong, the differences between the three files are only these highlighted line in the photo below that I am attaching ... if correct, I think you could simplify the development work by making only 2 variants, unify the HIGH with the MED (perhaps adding in the notes the values, if cleared in the med, to be inserted as a possibility) and leave the LOW.

Almost yes as components and hardware (and therefore as performance) but a little different as firmware and software, the sensations, although obviously almost comparable, have slight differences even if of little importance, however, in short, if we start from the G27 as a basis, we have a G29 that compared to the first is a little more informative and grainy in the sensations, and a G920 that is superimposable in all to the G29 but which strangely has (don't ask me why ...) a different (minor) dead zone respect for his twin brother ... for example, on the RD forum these slight differences have been addressed, especially in the sub-forums of the AC and ACC games ... in these games it is possible to upload customized *.lut files calibrated on the specific steering wheel ... who created the *.lut files, received different feedback between the owners of the 3 steering wheels, well, to optimize them properly they created different *.lut files specific for each model. So, although very slight, there are still some differences that can be significant such as the different dead zone between the G29 and the G920 (it is significant but not so much).

What values in game for Logitech? Obviously it is subjective but I think that two approaches can be implemented:
1) High Gain 80-90 (very hard up to the clipping limit), low LFB 20-30 (enough to fill the center), medium FX 50 (not too much to not add to the Gain) and Damping 0 (or if you like max 50 to dampen the peaks due to high gain);
2) Low Gain 40 (the minimum to feel a bit of hardness behind the wheel), high LFB 80-100 (we fill the wheel to the maximum, or almost, the wheel in the center so that it is constant), high FX 75-85 (with gain low do not disturb and season) and Damping 0 (there is nothing to dampen).

For now, with Karsten's files post version 6.6.5.* (as already mentioned above), I prefer the second approach .... we never have clipping, very little pendulum effect, minor variations of ffb settings between one car and another (with 40-90 -85-0 I run 80% of cars without changing ffb settings), and finally, I get a light and information-rich steering wheel ... in the first approach, however, the steering, although more decisive, has more clipping complications, of pendulum effect, and moreover, require greater deviations of ffb values between the various cars which must often be adapted.

Which version do I prefer of * 6.6.5.37 between LOW, MED and HIGH ??? I have always preferred the MED, but this last time, the LOW amazed me (it was a long time since I tried the LOW) ... very rich and tuned to my steering wheel and above all to my brain ... thank to all ... good job!!!

 

Great info above ! I used to work for a motor control company, and prior to that for a company that made high end/ hand wound multitrack tape recorder motors, and one thing that became obvious was that no two motors are ever the same. So, doing the Wheel Check on your wheel and looking at the response curves will help you understand what your particular wheel is doing, and what you need to compensate for.
Eventually everyone should be able to at least get a good default set up for their wheel/s, and those who have the know-how can custom tune for their own likes. Lots of good work going on here and other places with FFB, and when they get the other bugs tweaked, we should have a great SIM.
I hope that day comes sooner than later, until then I'm just sort of hanging and waiting.

 

Thanks, Karsten! That helped

Just following Karsten's advice, high force in the wheel settings, low force in the in-game settings And Gain 50 / FF 75% is actually quite light in the McLaren GT3 car.
It's not that extreme force in the Reiza Ultimate either, here's a couple of graphs from the telemetry HUD:
Blanchimont:


Eau Rouge:


And here's me holding the wheel very lightly, letting it start to get out of contol. This is at the end of the Kemmel Straight. In game gain at 25, Fanatec force turned down to 60:


Oscillations easy enough to control at that strength, but I think something is off causing the FFB get out of control like that... If I had let go of the wheel completely, there is no way I would be able to grab it again, the kill switch would be the only way to stop it.

 

torsteinvh Try lowering the (balance scale That should reduce the tendency to oscillate.

 

i’ve s

done some work with lut files once but mostly haven’t delved much into AC series.
still can’t find a nice feel with them. and there so limited in tuning in game. i been trying the last couple of days to get back into figuring Acc out but i just feels average.

I have had some great success using wheel check based force curve modifier that someone maded for pc1 , i have created scoop figures with it to make my wheel very linear in PC2 with some custom files. i haven’t tried it with karstens files though.
I will post a link to the FCM later. it’s very good.

 

FCM 1.20 tool (google > 'Force Curve Modifier pcars' for download) is really useful tool. You can remove deadzone and correct wheel response curve (make it more linear).
For me, these two lines of code

Code:

(output (scoop output 0.50 0.52))
(output (tighten output 0.17 0.012))

transform FFB completely, for the better of course. They are like the lut file in AC/ACC.

 

Latest revision just posted: https://forum.reizastudios.com/attachments/silver-raw-6-6-5-38-zip.12084/

* Works well for all cars. This by auto detection of max lateral force per car & then scaling.
* Dual lfb, one for each tyre.
* Better feel of grip loss on higher lfb(@Kuku Maddog , this should help you).
* Experimental Low End file. More differentiated & includes @TomP 's lines just posted in his prior posting to this.

 

Project CARS Official Forum
Thanks Skoader
i was at
(output (scoop output 0.81 0.44) on my wheel at 75/100/ 100/0/0 in thrusmaster control panel.