Automobilista 2 Force Feedback - Overview & Recommendations

With TrueDrive at 60% and in game gain at 30 or 35 I should be around 5NM, but there are spikes that seem to use the full strengh of the wheel, or in my case at least the full 15NM. I can easily drive one handed with those settings, which is necessary for stick shifted cars anyways, but those special cases where a force acts on the side of the tire (like the front wheels regaining grip in a slide or crashing into a barrier sideways) are way out of proportion. The same happened before when jumping over a sausage curb - the moment the wheel made contact with the road there was a heavy jolt, which was made way less severe in one of the latest betas. That's why I think there could be potential for some fine tuning on Reiza's side.

For the record, I was recommended to use more damper in game and try to adjust Slew Rate in True Drive. I have not yet tried that, but I will tonight and report back.

 

Renato mentioned it in one of the updates a while ago. He said something about the game now having its own damper effects implemented and requires turning it off in wheel set up (outside of game) for it to work properly. Give it a shot!

 

You sir are explaining my exact issue at the moment. I thought it was due to crashing but sudden big bumps in the tire/suspension are reacting the same way. As i continue to test this morning i am finding the FX sliding is playing a big part of this but i still cannot find any settings at all (in game or in fanalab) that minimizes these dangerous spikes.. If this is not resolvable i'm going to have to put this title down for now until we can get a fix Not worth the injury or turning down FFB so low that i lose all other details

 

First of all, Now I feel FBB became so good on present Default and Default+.

But its too uncomfortable to adjusting FFB.
I can understand FFB setting guide was written here so many times by periodic.
But this thread is almost reach to 2000 posts.
Its too difficult to find correct post what I want to know.

Just I want to know how does it works the each function, not suggested setting.
For example, DUMPING, Its not included on initial post by Renato.
I want to know how does it works with not only feeling, but also correct information.
It is very helpful for adjusting the FFB setting I think.

 

Just look back/search my recent posts in this thread. No need to read everything.

 

After updating my fanatec drivers and firmware the game is now unplayable and ive only had it a few days! It was ok with the damper turned off but now if I brake hard there's massive spikes on the wheel very uncomfortable no feeling from the tyres the only way I can describe it is like trying to steer a pedalo. I am mainly using the Fanatec DD1 recommended settings with either damper on and off however I have tried numerous combinations over the last 3 hours and nothing feels right its no road feel but horrendous spikes if you hit something or break hard. Fanatec ingame gain 65 everything else 0, also no difference in default or default+ and a description of what the difference is would be nice? Also as the engine is basically project cars 2 does the dd1 need to be in v2.5 mode?

 

Ok for one car!

 

Ok im defeated. i'll come back in the future at some point when it gets fixed, like what happened with Raceroom and ACC, their FFB was fixed and made a huge improvement, heres hoping as I really do like this game!

 

When hitting the curb with the front right wheel, the steering wheel pulls to the left, why not to the right?

 

Should I understand the function only from your post?
Have you exact knowledge about the function what the function comes from, how does it works, and so on?

 

Automobilista 2 V1.3.0.0 RELEASED - Now updated to V1.3.0.1

That's up to you, but many others seem to be responding in the positive. The link above is another one from another thread.

I do work internally with Reiza on these issues, but that doesn't mean I or anyone else knows everything about every wheel and software combo out there.

 

Thank you for your very important information.
I should to apologize being rude to you.

But still I think need to edit the initial post on this thread not only for me, also for new users.
For this time, you gave me the information, but for the other still need to mine this thread.

 

An official FFB Guide has been in the works for a log time now and you are right it is needed and would be helpful. But Reiza keeps improving the FFB and adding more options instead of working on the Guide for the old/now-outdated FFB, so I find it hard to complain too much when that is the reason (as opposed to laziness or not caring about FFB).

The other reality is that FFB is very much subjective. There is not a right answer or settings even for a specific wheel that will satisfy all customers. Which is why I suggest taking the few minutes to fiddle yourself so you can understand what each slider does...so you can tweak it yourself in the future.

Most of the experienced sim racers have slowly adjusted their settings over time as they realize a little bit of "this" or a bit less of "that" is more to their liking.

 

Okay, after over a year of messing with FBB settings, I think I've got it dialed in.

In the Fanatec control panel I'm using the Fanatec recommend settings for DD2.

In-game settings:
Default FFB Profile
Gain = 50
LFB =0
FX = 5
Damping = 75

Per car gain = 80-100

This feels fantastic on my DD2. The secret was the in=game damping. It needs to be high on a DD wheel or you get oscillations.

 

Hi Yes i have experienced same jolt, nearly injured my wrist. Did you solve this? Would you be able to post your settings in true drive and in game please?

 

I worked around the jolt by lowering FFB strength in TrueDrive from 60% to 40% and raising FFB gain in-game from 35 to 50. This way I have nearly the same FFB strength but the jolts are way less severe.

Currently I've switched to the rFuktor custom FFB. It has its own quirks, but no wristbreaking on impact. The settings for that are in my sig.

 

I myself am also getting better results by lowering the hardware overall strength and upping the in-game settings. Still scares the **** out of me because of these spikes, but risk to injury seem to be a lot less. I do have a separate post on the DDs about this topic and someone has commented that they do not see this issue and are on older firmware. Considering rolling back firmware to see if these issues continue but my gut tells me this is more of the sim issue...

I still hope the DEVs look into this and take it serious...a comment on it would be nice. Happy to help test and provide data if needed.

 

I recently upgraded to an Simucube 1 with the big MIGE motor. Does anyone have a decent FFB setting for me? Simucube Config Tool and AMS2 Settings would be much appreciated!

A bit offtopic but: I dont get the Steering Range Settings from Simucube, the Mclaren GT3 720 should have a steering range of 480°, but i only get synced Hand/Wheel Rotation when i set the Steering lock in Simucube to 270°... Weird.
My last Wheel was a Thrustmaster TX, and never had to adjust the steering range, since the wheel automatically set itself up. Can the same be done for the Simucube OSW?

 

Pretty sure you should set your wheel software to 1080 which is Max Rotation that AMS2 can cope with as far as I'm aware...... then just calibrate it ingame and should work fine!

 

AMS2 can decrease from your wheel setting but not increase!