Automobilista 2 V1.4 Force Feedback Overview & Recommendations

I have a T300. I also have no real issues with the settings recommended for TM wheels, except for the amount of gain (in-game gain, CP gain is up to your own preference) is still a bit too high with the cars I've tried if they're left at 100% car specific gain, so I'd suggest going a bit lower still, say to 75 (or lower car specific to 95-ish). But that's also a bit subjective, because it depends on how much clipping you're willing to tolerate.

Everything you said is correct, except for the last bit. That's not true. CP gain has no effect on FFB clipping on TM wheels (or rather - on any regular consumer wheels, can't speak at all for DD), they don't really have hardware clipping, so any clipping you will get will be coming from the software side, as in from the game itself, and in-game clipping depends entirely on in-game gain settings, not on you wheel CP settings.

Again, you're approaching this completely backwards. You should not adjust in-game gain to get your prefered forces/torque at the wheel, and if the signal from the game starts to clip heavily at say 80 percent, it doesn't matter if your wheel CP gain is set to 50 or 100, it will always get the same signal with the same amount of clipping when in-game is set at 80, just the forces you feel in your hands will be different (weaker or stronger, but they will always include software-side clipping). High CP gain does not magically create more headroom for in-game settings to go higher, it simply makes everything feel stronger.

Technically that is true, but see above, that's thinking about the whole thing backwards. If you have a weaker wheel, you can try to achieve the same average strength of forces as on a stronger wheel, but at certain point, all you'll be doing will be adding clipping. It's basically the same as if you had a weak portable speaker and a big hifi system, both connected to the same audio source (game) and an amplifier (in-game FFB settings). You can try to match the volume produced by the big system by ramping up the volume (gain) on the small one, but once you pass the physical limit of what the small speaker is able to take (its 100% CP gain), all you'll achieve is you'll start to get audio that's more and more distorted (is clipping) and doesn't really get any louder, and if you go up enough, you'll get unlistenable garbage and the speaker will get damaged.

A weaker wheel can only ever provide the strength you'll get if you set it to 100% in CP and to the edge of clipping in game. If you want more strength still, then you're out of luck. You can lower the forces (by lowering the CP gain, ideally, so as not to lose any detail), but you just can't get any higher than that, no matter what you do - except getting a stronger wheel. Ramping up in-game gain would be a wrong thing to do (but it's sadly quite common for people to do that in that situation).

Fair enough, makes sense, but in that case, it makes even less sense to send more in-game gain to the weaker wheels, I was just trying to come up with a possible justification (but should've thought about it a bit more, you're right).

 

Just tried with this setting, it seemed easier to catch the oversteer and the car are more pointy(maybe placebo) have to teste some more.

 

Thanks for this. I think its the best ive felt in AMS 2 on a t300 as well. I did adjust the LFB and Gain down a bit but that could be track/car specific. I can feel the tires more with this custom file then the defaults which i felt was missing.

 

Any recommended settings for a CSW2.5?

 

Glad you like it. Its all personal preference. I like a bit of a heavy wheel and it is defenitly dependent on the car. I usually have to turn the gain down a bit for FWD cars.

 

Pointing just to your last paragraph, the reason why lower end wheelbases require low force boost is not because of their low maximum torque, it's because of the high torque threshold required for them to be moved; all wheelbases which have a coupling system between electric motor and steering wheel inevitably lose details through the gears or belts. As such, the mellower effects need to be boosted past a certain threshold, otherwise nothing is felt.

I own an old IONICUBE OSW, before I had a G25. On iRacing, I had to boost the min force to 15%, based on the test results done with Wheelcheck. A G27 or G29 needs even higher boost, because the helicoidal gears bring more dampening to the system than the straight ones.

This inevitably compresses the dynamic range of the FFB signal, and is where the main advantage of a DD resides: there are no compromises between the more subtle effects and the peak torque you desire, you get to enjoy the full range.

 

I'm a notch below you on a CSL Elite, these may be an ok baseline to try though

Wheel:
SEN: Auto
FFB 100
FEI 50
FOR 100
Spring 100
DPR 0
all other settings off/zero

In-game
Defalt
Gain 70
LFB 5
FX 5
Damper 50

 

any tips for the Fanatec CSL DD without BoostKit ?
I used the boostkit setting with some added gain. I'm not experienced enough to know if it's how it should be or if the signal is too weak currently...

 

So these profiles, does the FFB setting change per car using fanalab?
I haven't tried fanalab in quite some time. Does it have profiles for older bases or only the new DD's?

 

Car specific profiles, but Fanalab doesn’t switch automatically (yet).
Only for DD1 and DD2 bases I’m afraid.

 

To be clear - hardware clipping happens when game requests more power than the wheels motor can produce.
So, how can you say that TM wheels, which depending on the model, produce just 2-6 Nm of torque, do not suffer from hardware clipping? When you limit max output with CP, the clipping threshold is achieved already with just normal cornering.

Try it out yourself, limit your T300 to 40-50% and you can't feel any curbs or whatever vibrations when cornering. And now if you lower the in-game gain to avoid wheel clipping, average cornering forces become really low - so, again, you have to keep in-game gain high, to have stonger average(medium) forces with weak wheels. Basically the same thing that @Gabriel "Pai" Legnini wrote few posts above about low forces.

But when you keep your T300 at 75% or 100% and lower the in-game gain to 40-50, average cornering forces become quite low as well, but you can feel extra stuff too. That is because wheel clipping happens later.

EDIT. About your comparision with audio.
I understand what you are trying to say but this not 100% correct as ffb is not a wave like a sound is, so it can not get distorted. When the physical limit of the wheel is reached, peak forces and the stregth of the wheel remain the same above it, there is no extra feeling or distortion. You are right that higher CP gain can't create more headroom (above 100%) but then again lowering CP gain loses that headroom where wheel can still distinguish and put out different forces. You don't want to turn your 8ohm speakers in 1ohm portable one, that is what lowering the CP gain is basically doing.

BTW, console players can't change CP values, only in-game ones, no matter what sim. They don't lose any details by doing that

 

Heck, I have made my Small Mige clip at 20 Nm in AMS2, and I tell ya, it's not funny!

(Or maybe it is )

 

Why is your FEI so low? According to Crimson, he mentioned not to go below 80.

 

Will there be a setup for the Brazilian DD Real Drive? I have an 8.5 Nm and would very much llike to have some light on how to set it up the best way possible. Thanks so much you all for this fantastic masterpiece.

 

What about Simagic alpha mini any recommended settings (in game and alpha manager)?

 

I have a CSL Elite too, and I have the FEI down to 30%. Anything above this and my wheel feels like a Logi G29 with all the vibrations and rattling / grinding, like it has gears. There's just too much noise with high FEI settings. My settings are pretty much the same as Great Ape's but with the DPR on, and the per car gain down to 80% usually.

 

I think that you are completely right about CP and game gains, so by that reason I put CP 100 %, 40 % in game and 50/75 % in garage for non power-assisted cars and CP 32%, 40 % in game and 100 % in garage for power-assisted cars.

 

You can take both variants, FEI very high or FEI very low. But if you set FEI high, you have to work with LFB and damping, otherwise you get the vibration oscillations mentioned and this constant grinding, because it amplifies everything very much. I have FEI at 20% with a dd1 and it works very well. Try both variants and decide according to your taste

 

Fanatec recommends after Driverupdate 447 -> SEN: Auto not to use becuase there is a known bug!

They recommends SEN: 1080.

Maybe this is interesting for fanatec owners.

• With some games using SEN AUTO it can happen that after closing the game, SEN AUTO is not set back to default. For example after closing F1 22 it can happen that the steering angle is still limited to 360. This can be worked around by using SEN 1080 in a game launched afterwards.

 

Could we please get good recommended settings for the Fanatec CSW 2.5,
CSL non DD and similar ones, on the first page ?

thanks