Come off the clutch quicker or/and use lower RPM, i can reproduce it if being too slow with the clutch pedal. It's not made for much slip but we can discuss to beef it up certainly.
Clutch is not meant to be disengagerd at Max rpm. Not even the very heavy and solid raod cars ones can stand that very often. Side note: ACC does not allow Max RPM in neutral, neither does none of my RL cars build after 2014, neither the manual nor the Automatic one. It also does not give you a better or quicker start of you just ingnite the rear rubber.
Not the best video to watch, Your engine sound is bearably audible and no clutch/physics widged But I think you use the clutch to simulate a variomatic In combination with the (too weak?) clutch of the Corvette GTE this is a recipe for disaster, I can do 3 starts and on the 4th start the clutch is gone
Nope, nor do GT3 or GT4. In fact i know of no modern class, except Formula and Rallye, that do a standing start.
Only from the pits. But applying high torque and lots of flash heating to the clutch when releasing "too slowly" can burn it definitely. They're not made for standing starts with lots of slip, like F1 cars for example.
I've read this thread, but I do not understand what "clutch slip" is, as english is not my native language (is it about missing a shift?). Can somebody explain what it means concretely ? I use a G27 pedals + a H-shifter (not the G27 one), driving older H-shifter cars with mechanical damage enabled and always rolling starts. I'd like to understand how to preserve the clutch as much as possible (I have a vague idea as I drive a H-shifter car with clutch IRL, but still...) in layman terms, rather than mechanical engineer if possible...
When you press the clutch pedal, you disconnect the clutch disc from the engine flywheel. Coming off the clutch pedal again connects the clutch plate and if the force isn't strong enough between the plates, there isn't enough friction to keep them running at the same speed. This causes the clutch to slip, which causes heating. Don't let the clutch pedal drop too slowly or even only partly applied or you "slip" the clutch for most tintops. Your tires can take a bit more of slip than your clutch if you need to start quickly, so prefer to drop the clutch quickly. Modern Formula cars clutches are build differently/more sturdy with materials that have higher melting point, other types of clutches etc. and you can let it slip a bit longer.
The clutch is responsible for transferring the power from the engine to the driveshaft and wheels. Imagine the clutch as 2 sheets of grippy sandpaper. When you press the clutch, the engine side sandpaper is spinning at a different speed than the driveshaft sandpaper. When you let go of the clutch, the 2 sheets come together by pressing against one another until they move together. This means they rub against eachother while one sandpaper slows down and/or the other speeds up. The longer you take to put pressure against each sheet or the bigger the speed difference, the more they will rub. Sandpaper will heat up if your rub it, but some heat is alright. The problem is when you heat it too much, it will become shiny and slippery because the heat caused the surface to change shape. The more it happens, the more it will slip. The same happens to a clutch. If it overheats too much and too long, the plates will take longer and longer to grip until the point where they cannot grip at all anymore. Now some cars have big clutches with sturdy materials than can take heat for longer, but that comes at the cost of weight which isn't good for a race car. So other cars opt to go for the smallest and lightest clutch they can use to put the power down, however that also means that they become much more fragile to mistakes, abuse and overheat. And as Crimson, said, the gripping material used also plays in how fragile to abuse a clutch is.
I find it is a bit delicate too, seems very fragile. Revs up, lights green, try to feed the clutch out so cars does not bog down and I get swamped but then I just sit there and rev without going anywhere and get swamped anyway
Please read the opening post. GTE and GT3 are a similar category with clutches and not made for standing starts.
I did read it before my post, there are valid points though about having to do standing starts when leaving the pits though. Maybe standing starts should not be available for those categories then, if they are available then maybe the damage needs to be tweaked to suit then.
You can do a small burnout when leaving the pits by getting revs up without full throttle and quickly dropping the clutch and then once it bites (pretty much immediately when you don't request full torque from engine) you're free to play with the throttle. Like Crimson said above, tires can take that abuse just fine. But perhaps it's something you want to practice a few times to get a feel for it. And in specific classes you want to disable TC or you'll get bogged down anyway. While it's a valid idea that standing starts shouldn't be available for said classes, fact is you can still have an ok standing start by doing a burnout with TC disabled or letting the car bog down a bit. Clutch damage is simply a restriction like anything else.
Did something changed on Clutch on the latest drop? I m driving very often manual ( clutch and H gear) and now I got problem with Clutch gone ( Rev Up and no speed). Happend with the corvette ( classic) on Monza after 2-3 laps ( both qual and race ) and happend with the M3 DTM after 6 laps on long beach ( on laps 5 it Bégin to slip). I never had this problem before.
No change to clutch damage for a while now. I would open the telemetry HUD and make sure you don't have unexpected clutch input. Or maybe there's an unexpected change to your sensitivity and/or deadzone causing timing to go off? If there's nothing out of the ordinary in either we can think of other possible reasons.
I Will check for this. Is There a way to look at the Clutch health somewhere to find which of my possible wrong behavior could potentially wear Too Much the Clutch ?
For now the only way is through shared memory. The easiest way is to use an app called Second Monitor - which I would recommend anyway as it's a cool telemetry app.
Did monitor the Clutch with the M3 DTM and the 911 classics with you suggested tools. After two lap time trial on long beach the Clutch was about 800c and gone about 85%. I checked the telemetry Viewer and seems ok ( no Clutch input outside gear change). I did a slight change with the thrustmaster calibration tools like 1-2% dead band adjustement and since then Clutch seems ok .. after 2 laps around 340 deg and 99-98% healty. Not sure what was the trick bit it seems fine now. Again thanks for the hint about Second Monitor. Seems very cool tool !
