Automobilista 2 V1.4 Force Feedback Overview & Recommendations

Thank you for your point of view which I fully agree.
Between the two Reiza profiles, I prefer the Default but the Default+ are the personalization of the sensations that for me reaches higher levels than the Default, furthermore the differentiation of the sensations for each individual car adds that surplus that the default profile does not have.
Unfortunately, however, I cannot eliminate what I don't like and on which I cannot intervene, i.e. on the rack settings which obviously remains in the secret of Reiza's mother code, here I can only adjust the sliders or the settings on my base, and since I don't have detail cursors I can't intervene on anything else!!
This is why lately I've been playing a lot with the latest customized files that have recently been released on the other forum, in particular the ATMOS Old_D_raw which includes part of the code of the Reiza Default profile (for those who love Default+ instead there is the ATMOS NDef_Imm), there I can both intervene on the effects and on some parameters of the rack, I am slowly getting used to the modifications and I must say that after an initial difficulty it is not that difficult, furthermore the guys who are developing it are commendably helpful both in public and in private and they are helping me a lot.
So I conclude by saying that I am currently continuously switching between Reiza's Default/Default+ profile and the Stakanov custom file mentioned above which becomes more and more adaptable day by day, and if this continues, regardless of what you use or prefer, we are definitely getting to TOP levels on this truly unimaginable simulation, therefore a round of applause to Reiza and to the guys on the other side.

I'm curious, with the future update of the game to version 1.6, does anyone know if, in addition to the physics and content, there will also be an update to Reiza's FFB code??

 

I believe physics, ffb and tires are under constant development.

 

Physics and tires for sure, but i don't now if the code FFB have different, if i don't mistake since the 1.4 version the code seem the same

 

The two profiles Default and Default+ have certainly remained identical in the code since version 1.4, however it should be specified that the second profile (Default+) despite having remained unchanged in the code, has had the values connected and inherent to the individual cars constantly updated.
What we don't know is whether there have been any changes on the rack (secreted to the public) in the time that has passed since version 1.4, even if reiza experts have repeatedly specified that little has changed in terms of code.
Undoubtedly the update of the general physics, the update of the physics for specific cars and the update of the tires has greatly changed the sensations received from FFB even if the code had not been changed by a comma.

 

My T500RS is getting old and I am thinking to upgrade to a TS-XW. I that a good move?

 

I started with logitech G27 a long time ago and then had a Thrustmaster T500 and I had a good time with that base. It is difficult to answer whether it is worth switching to a TS-XW. 5Nm or 6.3Nm doesn't make much difference and they are both belt bases. Maybe switching to dd would also be an option for you? In the end it is your decision and it has to be right for you

 

Thank you for your reply! Yes i thought that the TS-XW is DD. My bad. But with the DD wheels i am totaly confused about what i need there are so many optione and you have to build your system...

 

If I'm honest, I wouldn't go with Thrustmaster for a dd base for a variety of reasons. I would prefer Moza or Simagic because of the software's compatibility and the hardware. These 2 companies do a lot of things right for beginners but also for advanced users. Of course, this is just my opinion

 

Most manufacturers do complete ready to race bundles complete with pedals rim and wheelbase.
Such as:
Cammus:
CAMMUS C5 bundle for C5 Base and CS5 Desk Clamp and CP5 Pedals - CAMMUSRACING Simulator
€383.51 £329.
Not impressed by the cheap non loadcell pedal set though the price is pretty damned good.
https://cammusracing.com/product/cammus-ddwb-15nm-and-3in1-pedals-and-gt1-steering-wheel/
€966.35 £829.

Fanatec only offer their DD Pro 5/8nm bundles for PC/PS5 atm.
Ready2Race
Shame as their previous one's were a LOT cheaper (Guess that happens when they go into administration and are heading for liquidation unless they find a buyer).
Too damned expensive for those given what you're getting.
Though if you build it yourself you DO get discounts applied. e.g.
Those bundles are €699 (£599.65) and €799 (£685.44) both with a 2 non loadcell pedal set and the old QR lite (this creaks and flexes just a tiny bit but works well enough).
You can get a cheap rim with QR2 lite (much more robust then the Q lite), the 8nm wheelbase with the QR2 lite wheelside and deskclamp, triple pedal set with loadcell brake for €621.61 (£532.77) because they apply various discounts at checkout.
Beware though they ARE in financial trouble atm though have specified warranties etc will still be honoured for all customers.

Logitech don't offer deals on their DD option and imo £699 (€814.81) + £349 (€406.82) is too much for an 11nm base and triple pedal set.
On top of this GHUB software has been a pretty constant issue for AMS2 players as every update seems to cause major issues for many people.

Moza have some decent deals too, though if you want the clutch you need to add it and the same for the more progressive brake mod kit.
https://mozaracing.com/product/r3-racing-wheel-and-pedals
€465.11 (£399.00) with 2 ok-ish pedals
https://mozaracing.com/product/r5-bundle
€535.05 (£459.00)
Their 9nm and upwards kits don't include pedals though.
Bearing in mind the Moza R3 is actually 3.9nm peak torque which is about the same as the T300RS (3.4-3.9nm) and the T500 was 5nm.

Thrustmaster are imo too expensive with the T818, wheel rim and T-LCM load cell 3 pedal set costing €1299.68 £1114.96, yeah it's 10nm but is that worth over TWICE the price of the Fanatec build it yourself bundle 8nm setup above?

So going from a T300 to the R3 bundle would be a sidegrade though you'd get much more detailed FFB and smoother wheelbase with much less drag and noise when in use.
Likewise changing from the T500 to the R5 or Cammus C5 bundles.

What to avoid imo is any bundle that DOESN'T come with a loadcell brake as at least half the benefit of upgrading to a DD can be found in the having the loadcell brake alone..
Sadly only the Cammus C15 bundle, Moza R5 bundle have a loadcell brake included but, the R5 is without the clutch pedal.

I can't speak for most of these apart from the Fanatec CSL DD as I've had mine for close to 2 years now without any issues (apart from the creaking QR lite which I upgraded to the QR2 metal variant), I'm also using the Fanatec V3 pedals as I got them before upgrading from my old T300 + T3PA pedals (which is why I say half the benefit of a DD comes from getting a loadcell brake).

Your cheapest option is stick with the T500 base and get the T-LCM pedals plus the USB adapter and try then out till you get used to them.
THEN pick your choice of DD wheelbase and rim, cause with the USB adapter the T-LCM's can still be used with any wheelbase by plugging them directly into the PC.
Hell I'm seeing them selling on Ebay for £50-70, cheap upgrade that'll give you 1-3 seconds a lap on most GP circuits and an make the difference between being 5-15 seconds off the lead or winning a 5 lap race at say Spa...
I say that because of my own experience after getting my V3's alongside my T300RS and doing this on the 3rd day I had them vs a guy using a Fanatec CSW 2.5, V3 pedals, 3DOF motion rig and VR headset. At that time He was the 3rd fastest round Nords....

You don't NEED a DD wheelbase to be quick but you WANT a loadcell brake to get better consistency and faster laptimes...

 

I have the TS-XW if you want to ask any questions...
But I think that if you are in Europe or the US it might be worth it to look for an entry-level DD like the Cammus.

I really like the TS-XW but if you have the opportunity to buy a DD at a similar price it might be the best move.

 

I tried the adjustment for the T300 that Danielkart posted here and enjoyed it a lot. I have one question only, why 900° on the Thrustmaster settings? I know that there are a couple of cars on AC that use 1080°. Would that affect the FF? I would keep 1080° on AMS setting too, of course.

 

With 900 degrees you have a good steering angle. If you adjust more you will have to crank the wheel more and therefore your path will be longer and the time will be longer until you can correct and therefore you will be slower. The rotation speed will also reduce at 1080 degrees and your wheel will be less reactive and less lively. The less steering angle you have, the less you have to turn the wheel. But be careful if the steering angle is too low, your wheel will start to swing and oscillate. I know a lot of people who drive a low steering angle in TT to be faster. But for everything else I recommend using 900 degrees

 

I see. But if I have on AMS 2 1080° and on the thrustmaster panel 1080° as well, whenever I turn, for example, 90° my steering wheel the in game wheel will turn 90°, right? So, that's why I'm asking, the input should be the same. That's why I ask about the FF being affected. But anyway, I'll try 1080° here and see if there is any difference. Thank you very much for your hard work. It was really helpful.

 

Yes, you should always set it the same both in the Thrustmaster panel and when calibrating the wheel in the settings. Then it will also be visually correct for you. And yes it has an impact on the FFB. Try 300 degrees as an extreme example and you will quickly notice the difference

 

Will do. Thanks.

 

With most Bases FX of 50 is recommended, however I find with it set this high the drop-off from understeer as front tires reach a critical sliding point, is way too much and very unrealistic. I find using a much lower setting preferable.

I am curious if anyone can give some insight into why such high FX settings are recommended.

 

I think the recommended levels are to serve as a starting point. People will and should use the level of FX they want; those effects are optional after all. More importantly, overall force level and Damping impact our sense of steering control more than anything else in AMS2 ffb.

 

I understand that they are a starting point, but to me the recommended settings should be very close to the most realistic FFB on offer. They should be what Reiza considers represents how the cars should feel.

I know everyone is different and has different ideas of what FFB should feel like, but those that are developing the sim should recommend settings that allow the cars to be felt in the most realistic way possible, the FFB is as important to simulate as the tires or any other part of the simulation.

Hopefully new recommended settings will come with update 1.6

 

What I can tell you from my experience:

Default is the purest ffb signal coming from Reiza as how the cars should feel.
Default + is only to get more feedback from the wheel on how the car is behaving.

Good, the difference between normal and plus is the effects added to the raw signal. The FX slider is an amplifier for this effects. Default + has a minium level of effects that are shipped with this profile, also with FX at 0.

I mean, the FX is just taste, because there is already effects on the signal, and it only amplifies how it feels.

If you want to know how to get correctly the configuration, then focus on Gain and Damping. The wheel should have the sufficient sticky-friction-damp from base wheel to avoid oscillations.

Good starting point for a DD wheel is 100% base, 50 gain ingame, and then, up or down the levels. First within game gain settings. If the forces are too wild, then down the base force, and start from 50 ingame.
Damping ingame on 50 is just ok, just low down if your wheel is a belt wheel.

Finally, set fx to 25, and drive tasting it.

For reference, I have 100% 15 nm base, 50 gain ingame (i like hard, my father lows the base to 60 but the ingame gain at 50), 50 damping, 25 FX.

 

I already have my FFB set to my liking. I use FX at 8, my concern is for those new to the sim. Usually the recommended settings are the default setting for each wheel base in the sim, and the settings many try for the first time. I don't think the recommended settings best represent how good the FFB can be.