Automobilista 2 V1.4 Force Feedback Overview & Recommendations

It's worth noting that Reiza optimizes each car's FFB using the Default+ preset.
But I agree that Default ffb works quite well to provide very good baseline ffb. I'm not sure it's optimized (per-car) as Default+, though.

 

I thought 'custom' was the purest assuming you haven't actually put a custom file in the documents folder. It comes up as basic in the hud and doesn't add any effects

 

Could be, I haven't invested much time into testing the generic custom since quite some time ago as I've been very happy with either default version.

 

Hi,
what settings do you recommend for a Fanatec CS DD (both Fanatec panel and IN-GAME SLIDERS)?
Thanks

 

Nobody?

 

Seems most people only visit one part of the forum nowadays.

I don't have that base but I found this;
Reddit - Dive into anything

 

Thanks a lot

 

This is a good guide but I would like to offer some information that you might consider.

Firstly Gain: AMS2 has a 30% overhead built into it's FFB, you can see this information in the default custom file. So a good place to start with Gain is 70, most cars will have very little clipping with a gain of 70, some cars can be used with 80 gain with little clipping. A gain of 70 may be too strong for those with powerful wheel bases, but again most cars will have minimal clipping set at 70.

To me LFB is a bit tricky. Not enough and some cars will feel very light in the steering when not in turns, too much and you are basically flooding low forces which gives the same washed out feeling has high force clipping.
I recommend using the iracing wheelcheck tool to find your minimum force, there are plenty of articles with instructions of how to do this.
Whatever the % result is should be multiplied by 4, so if your minforce is 3% set LFB to 12, wheels such has g25/G27/G29 will often have a minforce of 8 to 15% the rule applies and 4x this will be enough, however some cars will feel very light at center, upping LFB in steps of 3 to give a bit more strength to center feel will help but try not to wash out those low end forces.

FX really is a matter of taste, the default is 50, so working down from that is the way to go. I usually use a very low FX setting.

Damping default is 50. wheel base software can really change how much is needed.
My own method is to set wheelbase Damping to 0 and then deduct my LFB setting from the in game Damping, I then keep lowering in steps of 3 until the FFB starts feeling ' Sharp'.

Hopefully you will find at least some of this useful. For reference I used yours+my methods on my G25 on a friends G29 and on my Moza R12, with good results.

 

Thanks so much for the feedback. I assume you're referring to the following lines of code:

(output (* output gain))

#third info container used for output (before lockstops, after clipping and gain)
(info3 (smooth output 0.7))

Is this correct?

 

This.

#allow 30% headroom
(headroom ( - 0.7 gain))
(clipTo ( + 1.3 headroom))
(clipTo ( if headroom 1.3 clipTo))

(output (hard_clip output clipTo))

 

Something I would like to add and perhaps you can test this yourself, if I set the overall gain to 100% and use the per car gain to lower it to 70% the FFB feels better than if I set the overall gain to 70% and leave the per car at 100%.

I can't see why this would make a difference so maybe its my imagination

 

placebo effect

 

Thats what I expected.

 

My understanding is the Thrustmaster T300 is in the 2-5 nm category.

Is it most similar to the G25/G27 or the G29/G923?

 

There are big differences. A Thrustmaster T300 is a belt base with a maximum of 4.4 Nm, the Logitechs you mentioned are gear bases up to 2.2 Nm. So here you have twice the power available with the T300. In addition, there are 2 very different systems with big differences. To put it very simply, on the T300 your wheel is driven with a belt drive; on the Logitechs your wheel is driven with gears. In addition, a new technology (Trueforce) is used in a Logitech G923. That's why these bases are very different and come back to your question

 

With respect, I disagree:

70% of 100 is 70, and 70 x 1.3 is 91 and 91 minus 30 is 61.

70% of 70 is 49 and 49 x 1.3 is 63.7

Therefore, setting overall Gain to 100 with an in-car FFB reduction to 70 does not yield exactly the same, headroom-corrected result as setting the overall Gain to 70 with 0 in-car FFB reductions.

 

That would line up with what I thought I felt. With one way feeling more detailed than the other, seems it is just giving slightly stronger FFB.

 

These are such small differences that it is not relevant (at least not for me). But if someone thinks this is important then you can of course make this comparison. Then I agree with you By the way, I don't feel any difference and I think that I react very sensitively to changes

 

Ok, so looking at Reiza's chart of ffb settings ... where does the T300 fit? It's stronger than the Logitech's but weaker than the Thrustmaster T-GT.

I've tested a bunch of settings Here is my latest but not sure it's the best.
Gain 75
LFB 55
FX 15
Damping 10

I'm thinking I might try something in-between the suggested settings for Logitech and the Thrustmaster T-GT