Hi I have one old DFGT with moza SRP load cell pedals. Always had trouble with steering ratios in game. Most cars, even if i set steering lock in Logitech hub to 200°, in game i had to rotate the wheel to 900° to move just a bit of the steering of the Cars. Since the 1.6 update , the wheel and pedals are showned in settings but i have no response either from the wheel nor brake pedal. The throttle respond in game while i configure it. The brake pedal gives no input. With the wheel its the same. When Im going to set the steering ratios in game, i can move the wheel but it doesnt show any input. Any way i can fix this? What are the best settings for my DFGT ? Wheel and pedals work fine in ACC, iRacing, ETS2 and many other games. Thanks
Best is subjective. I'm using a DFGT. I find the biggest problems are 1. the dead zone when the wheels are pointing straight ahead where there's no force and 2. the motor isn't fast enough to spin the wheel to the right place (which is why drifting etc can be difficult because the game engine sends stuff to the wheel that should spin it to a particular position, later it will read the position and because the wheel hasn't turned fast enough the game will interpret that as you either turning the wheel or stopping it from turning, and that input usually means the car does something you didn't want it to do - years ago one of the guys from Kunos was driving a yellow porsche they'd just added to Assetto Corsa around and he was saying 'just let the wheel spin and then catch it at the right time - well that doesn't work well with a DFGT) To try and eliminate the dead zone and general lack of force available many people with settings tend to increase the gain or even add a deadzone to the wheel. I don't really like either option especially the first tends to lead to clipping. Instead I generally reduce the forces so it feels more equal across the top and then I use the setting in AMS2 called 'low force boost' to give some force when there is none. So, in the force feedback page I'm using Default+ have gain on 60, low force boost on 60, fx on 15, damping on 0, menu spring strength 15. I have tried some of the custom force feedback - I guess they were changing all the time and I figured consistency would work better for driving. But I know my settings are not going to be to everyone's taste. The premise for me is : in VR I can drive the cars with no force feedback, especially in the cars where you're sat in the middle of the car like formula junior, I can feel visually straight away the attitude of the car and turn the wheel to correct - including moving the wheel back (which without force feedback you have to do). So I'm using enough force feedback to give some information and to make it a bit more immersive and add in some self-centering behaviour, but a lot of people, perhaps you, are going to think it feels too weak and / or sloppy. It's certainly nothing like a car steering wheel in terms of the resistance or damping to turning but I feel any attempt to make it even like our family ford focus with power steering just leads to clipping. The fix is probably buying a moza r5 bundle and screwing that to the desk instead, but it works and only cost £75.25 in 2009 If you want to try other settings search for the force feedback thread in the forum where they post all of custom ffb files and use g25 settings if you can't find specific ones for dfgt, they'll be close enough and fine tune yourself - some of the custom ffb files are by force and have example settings in the top of the file. In game I have the 2 switches on top of the wheel hub configured to turn the in car FFB up and down these are 'Joy button 6' and 'Joy button 7' and the settings are Vehicle FFB Gain Increase & Decrease on the controls / edit assignments / vehicle page. Typically I'm using around 70%-80% in the car too - although I do experiment a bit as I'm driving along. Logitech profiler stuff the usual 100% 0% 0% with degrees at 900. I've never messed with any of the steering things in the car set up. The wheel is on 900 degrees and I use whatever the default is in the setup. Braking. Eugh, it's horrible. No one should criticise you if you just use ABS, but to try and use the 'authentic' setting for assists, I did the following. I set brake sensitivity to 25 - and I know that's a big no-no for non linear braking but it means if I push the DFGT brake to just about where the resistance start to increase (a bit) that's around where it locks up so you can sort of play with trail braking but it's obviously not a load cell. In car, I used to have to set the braking power to about 80% but maybe that has changed with 1.6? I've only had a few hours in a few of the cars and I haven't touched the brake power, so maybe the defaults work now. Anyway, if you lock up a lot and don't want to use ABS dialing down the brake power in the setup will help.
