No, definitely ABS, I isolated it through increasing FFB gain as well as ABS active light on my dash and the hud, I assume that loss of grip is making the ABS kick in, but don't know why though?
What I meant was, check if your stability control assist is on as it uses TC and ABS in some sims to work in certain situations. I have no idea if it works like that in AMS2, but worth a check.
Nope. I tried briefly, albeit with the GT4 you mentioned earlier in the thread. All I noticed was when I was full throttle, with the TC triggering too, the slightest and lightest dab of the brake pedal puts the ABS light on. I've certainly never noticed it in anything else I've driven in the game either. To me that is strongly suggesting that your brake pedal is triggering an input. Here's the reason I think that : no one else has reported it or replicated it yet, it didn't start happening for you after an update, it seems intermittent, i.e you thought you'd fixed it but it came back and it doesn't seem to happen all the time. i.e to my mind it makes little sense for the ABS light to come on if your brake pedal was flickering low values of input (I mean at high speed you can pretty much press full brake without locking up and low values of brake pedal input don't tend to lock up the wheels even at a slow speed) Except in this scenario where you've already overloaded the tyres on corner exit and, coincidentally, this is exactly the scenario where you're experiencing it. So if it were me I would be focusing my attention on the hardware. I would use UDP and Shared mem and capture telemetry, because if you can show when it triggers that the throttle input is max and brake input is 0 then it's a different bug. I'll give the Nissan a blast later.
Isn't that what I'm doing by using the controller input display (HUD) and the ABS active light (dashboard shared mem), it clearly shows ABS active under throttle with no brake input? I use a custom FFB file, in there is a line like this (most have it) (ABS_gain 0.4) # ABS amplitude [0-1] (0 will disable ABS effect) if I increase that to something silly like 5.0 that confirms that not only the light (from shared mem) is activated but also the FFB It is under heavy load while cornering and maybe not the best cornering technic but I can pretty much reproduce it at will....capturing it is the hard bit
The Hud isn’t micro accurate. To eliminate micro brake applications you need to make sure your Brake sensitivity is set to default (50) and add an unreasonable amount ( just for testing) of dead zone to your brake pedal either in game or in device software , recalibrate pedals in game and repeat tests.
speaking from experience and being surprised by the results , I had this problem and it was over sensitive pedals and adding a small amount of dead zone cured it . You couldn’t see it on hud , but it was there. Take with that what you will .
You maybe right I added some more dead zone in the device settings as well as in-game, then recalibrated the pedals in-game, seems to have fixed it, however last time I recalibrated them it fixed it as well but only for a short period of time. Hopefully the extra dead zone in the profiler will help, time will tell Thanks for your help Kia ora
Not entirely. You're seeing ABS is activated - I don't think anyone will doubt that by now. The hud does show a red pedal that grows when you press the brake but it doesn't really give raw numbers. It requires you to be looking at the hud the whole time, and a small brake input might barely register. Whereas the telemetry shared memory has both the ABS flag and the throttle / steering / clutch / brake values. If you can show a telemetry raw data dump that has abs on and brake is zero then I think you've demonstrated a likely bug. On the other hand if your ABS triggers have brake input then you've probably found an issue with your pedals. I would try any and everything really - depends how easy this is to trigger. I mean if you start off from sitting on the track somewhere not moving does it trigger every time? If so, stop somewhere on the track, go into controls and unbind your brake pedal axis completely, now go flat out in the first couple of gears - does it still trigger? You could try swapping the pedals i.e assign brake to throttle and throttle to brake - after 5 minutes of trying to get your head around driving again does it still happen? The bottom line is : You want to find out what the problem is, the game, your pedals or whatever, and, if you think it's the game you'll need to provide some evidence because everyone will just assume your pedals are broken until either a bunch of other people say "Yeah, me too" or there's some evidence ABS can trigger with no brake input.
well that explains it . You will need to google about Potentiometer issues and maintenance. With any luck just a good clean might help .