Automobilista 2 Custom Force Feedback - Overview & Recommendations

Yeah, it's pretty great with all those options for ffb. I tried the top speed file and really liked it too. Also Kukus variation file, posted on overdrive, feels great too.

One thing reg. the new files, including 3.1-3.6, for competitive races, you likely want to decrease suspension feel by a lot or even set it at 0. That is strictly an immersion effect, and likely will cost some time as well as consistency.

 

Can you elaborate (or someone else?) specifically, on this part: Another thing I noticed was many were recommending not leaving the wheelbase power at 100% and lower ingame, but instead using more gain ingame and balancing power in the wheelbase itself. (which does affect the feel of the ffb)
What does this mean and do compared to 100% FFB on base and adjust ingame (and vise versa)?

 

Just sharing my experience with 3.6 after multiple times attacks and online races. It's a masterpiece. The LFB is much less aggressive and I personally like it around 35-40 with the FFB set between 70 to 78 depending on the car.

No more funny/unexpected sliding and losing control. Exiting the corner has never felt better. The balance is there; the front feels solid and you can utilize the rear for better rotation with managing the acceleration.

There is that perfect amount of FFB and constant power in the whole wheel rotation regardless of the speed. The damper adjustment is absolutely amazing. I really enjoy rolling with 3.6.

Over/understeer feel is more noticable and with increasing the tire volume (which AMS2 has done a great job), you can act before it's too late.

Thanks for the experience Karsten and anyone involved with the project.

Cheers,

 

I can explain it to you:
I came from lower weaker wheelbases before having more powerful bases. I'm used to not run a 20nm DD1 at 100% peak. Meaning for a long time I always used the full range of ffb % inside the game and if for some reason the ffb becomes very peaky (crash or very tall kerb etc) it will clip but I will not have to deal with very extreme forces.

Depending on game or sim, in some cases it's preferable to do that, in others, it's preferable to have the wheelbase at full 100% power 20nm and then have much lower gain settings inside game (like 40).
While most people would think it's just 2 different multipliers for the signal... the way in which they interact with each other can cause compression.

Recently in the past year, I saw many cases where people were using 100% wheelbase force which was something I had never used before due to the scary peak force moments where 20nm can hurt your hands and wrists.
In AMS2 however, I saw Mikk and his community, some of the recommended settings from this thread including Daniels, even when with the Karsten files AMS2 seems to benefit from a bit higher gain in game.
While in ACC for example, having higher gain ingame makes the ffb more peaky but with a lower powered base like G923 its very hard to feel that the rear tires are slipping, spinning, and that you need to countersteer to avoid losing the car... then with a very powerful wheelbase it becomes much easier to feel when using higher forces and lowering ingame.

However in AMS2 I've been going back and forth bettween these 2 kinds of settings for the forces, and in AMS2 even with low gain ingame, the ffb power output from the game can still spike quite high on a crash, it's like it has an increased dynamic range.

For that reason, when I had very high power on the base and just low gain in AMS2 but I went off track with the Ginetta GT5, just by trying to spin in around on the grass over a small kerb to get it back to the track, where was an ffb spike that activated almost my base full power even with low in game gain. This peaky behaviour will have you fighting the steering wheel over more aggressive kerbs bumps and stronger suspension movements.

Even RacebeyondMatter made a video explaining exactly this, that most people for the most part only use high power wheelbases at higher values but in AMS2 you actually can have a more enjoyable experience by balancing out, and increasing the gain a bit more ingame and not as much in the wheelbase.
For most people there is a balancing there and it does affect a bit how the ffb feels.

Now that I found out the "Force Effect Intensity" setting of my wheelbase I'm also discovering that you can actually use it to make the ffb way less peaky over some of the kerbs and effects.

I used to go for very whacky ffb settings like "more is more" kind of thing... I have to say it was very fun and immersive fighting the ffb, but I've almost lost races because going over a kerb made the steering jump out of my hands and I lost control of the car due to extreme ffb settings...

In the end I was boosting LFB and FX quite hard trying to find anything that led me to catch every single slide from the rear end of the cars... because I was using pointy oversteery setups.

TLDR
Instead of trying to work with like 40ffb gain and high power in the base, I noticed things worked better around 60 gain and lower base power with the Karsten rFuktor files and now with Daniel settings and group of guys and Mikk who also uses the DD1 and he and his friends are quite fast using Daniel's settings, I can confirm that in AMS2 having a base working full 20nm might not be ideal for the ingame settings.

Which is funny because months ago when I started using 100% wheelbase force I asked here, and I even did a poll on a FB group, and a huge majority of people use 100% power on the bases and low gain ingame.

Hope this is not too long, but here you'll understand the thought path that I went through.

 

I really enjoy what daniel kart do. Putting every setting pithouse and in game. Otherwise, everythings become complex and take a lot of time to tweak instead of play the game. I use the last topspeed but what are the difference with the other daniel custom ffb ?

 

BTW not meant to be picky or anything, is there anything specific you recomend for the wheelbase settings or you would just suggest the "usual" no filter everything as basic and default as unfiltered as possible?
Maybe with 1/20 levels on "Interpolation filter" just to clean it up a tiny bit, since without it in AMS2 there is some sort of whetstone steel grinding feeling on the steering wheel.

Another thing I noticed was that in 3.1 the feel was more compressed from your ffb which made me more comfortable using higher forces in my wheelbase with less extreme peaks, more consistant ffb percentages that made me more relax since I wasn't scared of big spikes. Which later with the compression setting you added did confirm that to me.

 

You will always find the changes to the files described in the change log of my files

 

I def. recommend some smoothing on the base.
On my SC2 I use "reconstruction filter" at 3 to make it smooth.
That's the only one I have set.

Reg. the compression, yes, it was exactly your information that led to the change of LFB slider to be for compression.

 

I have been tried DKs last file and I like it a lot. For me it is the best version of DK. The former versions I did not use because I find the feeling in the curve always a little weird. But the V7000 Topspeed 2 is very natural. Thank you Daniel !

 

What settings are you using on the base and ingame with the simucube pro?

 

My current settings, running rfuktor experimental 3.6

In simucube tuner:

Gain: 100%
Damping: 0
Inertia: 0
Friction: 0
Reconstruction filter: 3

In game:

Force: 18-30%
LFB: I have it at 31% right now, but would like it at many other values too.
Fx: 20%
Damping: I run 0%, but probably would prefer it higher.

It would be safer to run the base at 50% and then in game at 35-60 range instead. It would produce the exact same result.
Older versions would benefit from running at some 65% or so, since that would make it add compression on torque coming by high downforce and velocity. In experimental 3.6, the LFB is the compression setting, so you control that aspect much better.
If you want to make sure there is no compression automatically, run the base at 100%, as I do right now and set the gain low in game. Unlike older versions, you now get the compression you want at in-game force at 20% as at 65%, using the LFB slider.

 

Hello,

Regarding the "rfuktor experimental 3.6" - Could someone please suggest some settings I could try for my Fanatec CSL DD Pro's 8nm? I could not find a good one so far.

Best regards,
Ivan

 

Idk if I can also share this here, I’m limited since I’m on the phone due to travel but today I published a shootout video with 3 different ffb settings in Fanalab, in 1 of these 3 laps I use @Karsten Hvidberg rFuktor experimental 3.6 and I actually avoid the “interpolation filter” from Fanalab and instead I “tame” the ffb a bit with “Force Effect Intensity” at the end of the laps I showcase my times and settings also featuring Reiza’s Default+ and @Danielkart V7000 Topspeed (for DD bases)
Enjoy the settings

Force Feedback Shootout in Automobilista 2 – Default+ vs Custom FFB | McLaren GT4 at Road Atlanta

 

I am struggling a lot to get workable FFB with my new simagic alpha evo (12nm)
In short I get high frequency vibrations in the wheel if the road surface is anything other than totally smooth ie the wheel is too sensitive to these effects. FFB filtering in simpro manager does not mitigate this nor damping in game settings. Even if I set FX to zero and FFB effects in simpro to zero
I would have thought the recommended game and base settings by simagic would not cause this but for me it does. I actually quite like the reiza default setting but can only use it if I keep the gain quite low and in cars that arent so sensitive to road effects. GT3 not too bad but P3 no good
I know some of the issue is my old original Obutto cockpit is not rigid enough or at least the stand the wheel is on is not, but it is not that flexy. I got the Obutto over 20 years ago - long before we had Direct Drive..I dont think the Logitech G25 was even out then..I had a Driving Force Pro back then.
Point is we should not have to have a 100% rigid rig to use these wheels
I have tried some of the custom files...most still have the vibration issue. Daniel Karts one is workable if I keep the FX down around 12 in cars like the P3 but a bit more is ok in GT3 but for some reason I dont like the wheel feel in that custom file - seems overly damped or something - hard to describe but it is the same with the Karsten file. The GasandGo one was OK in this respect but vibration was bad.
I wish the default setting was available as a file to just be able to lower the road texture level a bit
I dont have this vibration issue in LMU. At the moment I dont have any other driving games installed
Note this vibration is not oscillation...if I grip the wheel firmly it helps reduce it but again car dependant

 

I have a Simagic Alpha Evo and absolutely no problems. I think your rig is the main issue, but it has nothing to do with the simulation. Also, you should leave the "Feedback Detail" setting in the base settings for Simagic at 0. As you've noticed, otherwise, high-frequency noises occur.

 

Nice driving!

Interesting reg. the filters, to avoid the fanalab interpolation filter. And yet again you've given me some inspiration for something to improve, argghh (well, I like it, so no complaints)
It's also great inspiration to want to try that same car/track combo! I really like these videos for that too. Does Reiza promote them in a way that will inspire more people somewhere? Otherwise that might be an idea... Like a catalogue of inspirational "bests" or otherwise noteworthy. It could even be ingame as well, so you could just click it to try that same combination, or maybe it could be a "subscribtion" model to have that, both ingame and directly in Steam.

Best,

-K