Automobilista 2 Force Feedback - Overview & Recommendations

Thank you.

@CrimsonEminence , I stand corrected, placebo it is.

 

Regarding your Dirt Rally example; do you have a source from the devs of where this information comes from? Honest question, I'm interested.

 

I think you should re-check this. I know no wheel that itself introduces force depending on damper or spring settings.
Damper in driver at 0 disables the possibility of a force on the damping channel (some games use this e.g. RaceRoom) same on spring (some games use this for menu centering).

 

Hi all,

I've been testing FFB all weekend and would like to share my thought/findings.

This is just my opinion and I want to provide feedback to the developer/community to hopefully help this game and to get AMS2 the recognition and rewards AMS1 deserved but didn't fully achieve IMO.

In summary:
1. The FFB is great when the car is applying force on the tyres.
e.g. When going up or downhill, under breaking (when not locking up), during the transfer of weight of the car, when the back-end steps out and wants to snap back in, driving over a dip or hitting a big curb.
All this is very clear in the FFB and is communicated beautifully back to me.

2. Where the FFB is bad (again just my opinion to help) and the reason I have been testing all weekend and only just realised the issue late on Sunday for what I was feeling was wrong is there seems to be no information through the steering wheel from the grip between the tyre and the surface.
e.g. when turning into a corner the forces load up but when you cross the grip level in to a skid you do not receive any information through the wheel - both understeer and oversteer.
The force seems to remain at its peak during the skid. Visually you can see the car understeer/oversteer but can not feel any changed from peak grip. It is the same in the wet. in the V10 I can achieve the same force feeling in a thunderstorm as I can in the dry, again visually you can see a difference but there is nothing communicated through the wheel regarding grip levels (body movement yes and the car moves more in the wet).


How I have come to these opinions:
1. testing a large range of different FFB setting, from both the wheel and in-game. I covered the min and max of most of the options.

2. testing a number of cars on a number of tracks.
Note:
Donnington Park's section after the first corner shows how good the weight transfer FFB is.
Oulton Park was great to dial in the FX because of the cubs, runoffs and grass.
The Stockcar is heavy but the weight transfer FFB is very good.
The V10 loading of force in to a corner was clear and it was this car that showed me the lack of track grip to slip change.
The F3 just felt weird all-round

3. I compared to other titles and used the majority of the same testing parameters including a range of wheel and in-game FFB settings
Note:
ACC - when you loose road grip that creates understeer there is a very clear change in the FFB that matches the visuals and audio. Oversteer is there but not as clear. Weight Transfer is no where near the information of AMS2.
AC - Good all round balance of all FFB (road feel was clearer than weight transfer) but there can be sudden "snaps" especially when hitting a curb that caused un-predictable spins - this has been covered many times.
AMS1 - I forgot how great the information from the wheel is with this sim. The car feels alive and as if you are pushing it to the limit and there was subtle but noticeable change in the FFB with Understeer and oversteer. I was able to catch several spins.

Additional Note:
I only reinstalled AMS1 today for this comparison test and I just used the default recommended settings and had excellent FFB within moments of loading up the game (I had none of my own settings to work from).

Brakes Note: Just wanted to add that even after calibration of the Break the lock-ups in AMS2 are really bad compared to AMS1, I have a Load Cell and on the same track and same car I only had to use 1/2 the force to get the wheels to lock at the same breaking point (I might create a separate post for this one.)


Hope this helps

Kind regards

Cheeky x.

 

Nevertheless it's a myth that different driver settings make a difference when it's not used from the game!
And if it's used from the game because it needs the effect channel why would you disable the needed effect?
Generally the idea is to use only effects from physics for FFB but it's possible to tune it with artificial effects to enhance e.g. tyre scrubbing. So this means you should enable the possibility of spring and damper in driver and dial it in the game as you like it.
But if the game has a bug and sends e.g. 100% force on spring you could disable it in the driver.

 

Cote long time no see, I used to be on a CSR/Porsche GT3 RS (which is basically the same wheel), and when I played around with damper and springs in the wheels software it would also make my wheel feel very heavy to turn and unresponsive. So since then I just kept both at 0 even though I switched to a CSL now. I suppose like others say it will depend on the signal each game gives out and if it uses the settings or not but in any case those tests I did back in the day convinced me to keep those on 'off'

From the CSR manual:



Could have been before I switched to the PC masterrace then, but I have a hunch it still applies to PC sims as well.

 

Not always the case however it depends on the level of FFB coding developers put into their sim.

RRE makes full use of a driver dampening setting. Without it the dampening setting in RRE will not work properly as it has nothing to draw from. Even the physics dev says to set the driver level to max so RRE can make use of the setting you choose in game.

rF2 makes use of spring and dampening out of your control panel setting too as it adds its own spring and dampener effects to the FFB output

Mostly useful for the older Logitech wheels

 

Hello,

Thanks for suggestions.

I'm really enjoying AMS2, really promising under all aspects, but I guess there's something wrong with my G29:

I can't feel nothing when I hit curbs... vibrations also, nothing. I guess there's something wrong with my drivers (using latest "G HUB"), is it normal?

I want to try to install the old Logitech Profiler in order to apply your recommended settings, can you tell me which version I have to download here? ftp://ftp.logitech.com/pub/techsupport/gaming/

Thanks in advance.

 

A CSR elite is a totally different wheel. Not the same design, the elite has the same design as a CSW.
But thank you for trying to help.
Also all my settings in my wheel are at off.

 

CSR = Porsche GT3, not the elite I meant.

 

Bloody hell I know , I was talking about my experience with the regular CSR which is the same wheel as a Porsche GT3 almost. And besides, the on wheel functionalities are the same in the tuning menu.

 

But the CSR standard and the GT3 are, and I had both you guys! I'm tired now.

 

What does this correspond to in the simucube panel?
2.5% damper
0.5% friction
1.0% inertia ??

If anyone has ever tested... or if anyone can tell me...
i have a Simracingbay OSW kit with small mige.

Thank u
Merci d'avance

 

You can't use the older profiler as it doesn't recognize the wheel. I found latest ghub to be the best route as the drivers are more up to date than the latest profiler, which is essential if you play older game!we like rf, gtr2 and ams1 because only the ghub drivers install legacy drivers

 

Incorrect! , I made a visual representation:


Fanatec CSR vs 911 GT3 RS V2 : simracing