A quirk of the physics I've found - mid-corner turn-in oversteer?

Mahjik brought up a good point. Is the problem there with all the different tyres or just some of them?

 

The oversteer is too much, it is an old PC2 problem that seems to have no solution.
Try different types of cars and everyone has that problem, especially the ARC Camaro.
I tried different types of settings on the steering wheel, assists, car setup, recalibrate, delete everything etc etc but there is no case.
Ironically abusing that powerslide effect, better times are achieved, but the feeling is totally unreal, it's like drifting all the time.
Hopefully they can fix it in the next patch.

 

Just a note, being able to keep a car just over the limit of adhesion of the tires doesn't always means there is no grip or not faster. I'm not suggesting there isn't a problem, but just making sure people understand how usable a car still is above the the limit. Look at some of the examples of the Indy cars in the video below at how much it's slipping/sliding:

 

I think you would need to try Project Cars 2 to experience it.
As you're understeering a little, all of a sudden it just grips 100% on the front wheel, complete snap.
I just went to verify how it felt, was enjoying my time, despite this weird behavior & then actually damaged my hand from my DD wheel pretty bad after 3 laps, so badly bruised thumb right now.
It completely just 100% snapped back BOOM, ripped the wheel from my hand and hit my thumb(formula wheel, so unf. NOT round, ouch).
This at only 50% strength, so I'm not running my DD at high force, as thast could easily cause bruises. I always run it low-ish, as to NOT hurt my hands.

Best car/track combo I have found: Audi R8 lms on Mugello, LAST CORNER.

It won't always snap 100%, but it will always produce this effect very pronounced. I did 3 laps, last one was 100% snap.

 

It is highly recommended to wear gloves using a high torque wheel.

 

I'm a former WMD guy so I have played PC2 once or twice.

I do recall from WMD there being a "jolt" or something similar that some people experienced. It was more pronounced on some of the higher end wheels than the lower end. I'm on a Thrustermaster TX so I might not feel it or the effect may not be as pronounced. I thought I remembered it being the Fanatec users experiencing a "jolt".

FWIW, at the time, I don't recall SMS saying it was a problem with the physics but more of what the FFB was determining from the physics. In the controller menu, what profile are you using? Custom Wheel?

The reason I ask is that SMS had added an "Anti-Jolt" property into the FFB. I understand Reiza did many changes in the FFB but that property may still be available. IIRC, it was applied to the Fanatec wheel profiles by default but not others.

What is "anti-jolt"?

 

Did something change with the stock cars in 8.3.2?

I could much better control them a few days ago. Could do low 1:38 interlagos, now it's 1.39 and much more spinning...

 

Great!

Thank you Mahjik for this information, I will try both raw and antijolt in PC2.
It's really a strange thing in PC2, as for example the Corvette and many other cars don't exhibit this behavior.

Will post again when I've tried,

Cheers!

 

What JN is saying is the same thing many people have been saying about "iceRacing" and rF2 and others for a long time. AMS (1) was criticized by some because most of the cars were much easier to control (not win a competitive race with) than in prior versions or rF2.

I have also been around quite a long time and I do not have a definitive opinion about this, but I am leaning heavily towards it being a FFB issue more than a basic physics issue. AMS 2 cars like to be hustled. You will be punished more in AMS 2 (than in other sims I am familiar with) for not following good real-world racing principles (like slow-in, fast-out especially for many of the older gen cars). In the aborted 0.8.3 FFB update (that is coming back), aside from other improvements, the one thing I noticed most distinctly was the calming of this mid-turn oversteer issue. I do feel it regularly with some cars, but I have to say that I am thinking it is only on the cars that already have a particular bent in their FFB. These include the Super V8, ARC C, Sprintcar. As a test, can anyone who finds this effect/syndrome frustrating on the previously mentioned cars get a F-Vintage G1 to do this? It has the opposite FFB "design" at the moment (meaning it is very difficult to get both it and the Super V8 group to feel good with the same settings, but each can feel great on their own with opposing LFB and FX settings).

 

Ok, so I looked at it & not sure where to apply it in the AMS2 config. There is no similar part in the ffb custom file.

But I have applied it to my PC2 custom ffb & it's made a sign. difference. You can tell it's kind of a hack fix, as sometimes it does not quite "hide" the jolt completely, only partially, but still MUCH better to have in place & avoid my fingers being hurt, aside from the bad feeling of the jolt itself.

Enjoyed a few races Audi R8 LMS & Ferrari GTO 288... NICE cars! 8)

Thanks again Mahjik!

 

Good to hear there was some benefit. I do recall hearing that it also mutes the curbs in PC2 as well. I read a posted by one of the Reiza staff on another forum where it was said they did coding changes in the FFB for AMS2 so they may not have the "Anti-Jolt" code in there or exposed.

 

That def. would be best if they truly want to move the needle, although it really does feel crazy good on many already!
Just had a go with P052 & P1... Man...