Automobilista 2 Force Feedback - Overview & Recommendations

Ok

 

The ts pc racer have and external power supply, so overheating is no the case with ts pc racer. i don't know if at 75% stregth in cp the output in more linear or not. I never read TM recomended settings for Ts Pc Racer

 

My T500RS have a (big) external power supply, and it's able to overheat if I push FFB more than 60% during a certain time. When pushing it, FFB forces are fading, less strong, I can notice that very quickly. So I keep 60% as recommended, and all work fine for hours. I don't want to break my old good wheel Next week I gonna change the original fan inside as it's the first generation of T500RS and the low quality build in fan rattle like hell.

 

I honestly do not understand very much how the Telemetry HUD FFB bars work.

There is the vertical bars, which I am not sure what they represent to; there is the horizontal line from each of the bars, which I do not know what they represent; the graph for the FFB it kind of shows if the wheel is clipping when turning right (because of the window limit at the top of the graph) but no way to know for sure if the FFB is clipping when the wheel is turning left.
At the same time, right most vertical bar never moves at all, not sure what it represents.

I am having great difficulties trying to setup up the FFB for my wheel (Logitech G27).

Would greatly appreciate if Reiza could explain these graphic representation of the Force Feedback.

Thanks and keep up the great job.

 

My understanding... the vertical bars represent force at a certain angle of rotation (ie. left bar represents wheel centered and/or turned slightly, the next bar representing the wheel rotated further, and so on, until you reach max rotation, w/c is represented by the last vertical bar. The horizontal bar represents FFB output at all times. That's the basic understanding I have of them. HTH

This 'might' help (can jump to around 16:00): Episode 4: Setting Up Feel And Force Feedback - Project CARS

 

For PCars2 the bottom horizontal bar was current FFB output strength, the vertical bars were binned FFB strength:

| 0%-20% | 20%-40% | 40%-60% | 60%-80% | 80%-100% | >100% (Clipping) |

The horizontal lines were a real time read out of the FFB in those ranges, with the solid bars being an aggregated average of FFB output over a certain period. Looks to be the same in AMS2 from what I can see.

 

While the video link provided by sherpa25, and the explanation by NuScorpil are both all well and good, neither of them provide me the answer to this basic question (or maybe I'm just slow?) ---

That is - When using this graph/tool, how does it indicate whether my FFB is clipping? IOW, what should I specifically be looking for on these graphs to indicate clipping?

Everything else is just bells and whistles, IMO.

Thanks.

 

As in my explanation above, the 6th vertical bar (the one on the right) shows the amount of clipping (requested FFB strength >100%). It should show up in red if you hit the clipping point. The graph to the right also shows the real time output but above the centre line is right and below ifs left (or the other way around). If the line flat lines at the max deflection from the centre line then you are clipping.

I tried to get my wheel to clip by reducing the strength down to 3nm and increasing the FFB in game to 100 for Gain, LFB, and FX but I still didn't get any clipping indicated. This may be because it's a DD wheel but I think that should make it clip so maybe there is still work to do with this.

 

I'm sure the guy mentions about clipping in the video. I believe it's when the bar turns red. He even mentions about it not necessarily being bad when it happens on high-speed turns.

 

Now that's what I want to know, how do you reduce strength by a specific value (ex. 3nm)?

 

Just a setting in the Simucube control panel, it gives the equivalent value in nm and amps:

 

A non-issue unless you have a DD wheel...

 

Oh sorry, I saw your 'Rim' and concluded that was your wheel. Good for you guys Is Simcube a DD?

Isn't Simcube a DD, then you might have meant 'A non-issue if you have a DD...'.

 

Yeah kept the rim from my old T300 as it's a nice rim and I'm too cheap to buy a new one when that works fine And yes, it's DD, 25Nm max torque.

 

No, I meant the overall setting of the torque that you were asking about is a non-issue for those (i.e., you...and me) who do not have a DD wheel. Just set your wheel to max and adjust the settings in the sim. The only exception is some crazy TM wheels that have non-linear control panel settings and are supposed to be set to 75% or some such. Non-DD wheels are not strong enough that when set to full you cannot easily adjust the sliders in-game to get good settings. DD wheels appear to need fiddling for every sim (at least there are the same threads in every sim forum discussing the difficulties).

 

On simucube 2 I did that at first too, but then found it to be MUCH better(for me) in AMS 2 doing:

* recon off
* max slew rate 0.1 (lowest setting)

I know it sounds weird and has pros/cons, but for this title it FEELS just awesome. Keeping all the little details and getting rid of much of the notching. So it's a double up win that works wonders.
Not sure it will work on Simucube 1, but I don't see why not.
Maybe works for podiums too. No idea.

FWIW

 

SC1 doesn’t have slew rate adjustment.

 

Not really. Once you have it dialed in it’s mostly minor tweaks between sims.

 

Though I would share my new FFB settings
v0.8.4.0 - New Default profile
Fanatec CSL Elite v1.1 PS4 with P1 wheel - Drivers v356 with Firmware assigned to this driver

My aim is to have a normally light wheel but Strong top end without fighting the wheel and just being able to feel the road texture.
In Game FFB:
Gain = 60* please see note below (hoping to help others find a good solution for their car choice)
Low = 18 (would raise to 20-25 if this feels too light, anything more "flattens" the FFB range)
FX = 22 (Can just feel the road texture with all cars, anything over 25 starts feeling unnatural)

* The gain of 60 works for the v10, v12, P3, Super v8 as any more gain starts "clipping" - Oulton Park's fast second from last right hander shows this well. For the Copa Fusca and Caterham this Gain is too low to get the max signal before clipping.

All images taken from Oulton Part, 2nd from last right hander.
v10 - with 64 Gain (65 in game menu), this matches the P3.

v10 - with 60 Gain (no clipping)

P3 - Any more Gain creates clipping

Caterham - More Gain would increase feedback

CopaFusca - Same as Caterham


Please note - my statement of "Gain is too low" for Caterhams, etc. is about clipping and FFB range, not about whether this is reflective of real life or not (I have no clue on that one ). I am also not saying that this is a bug or wrong.

Wheelbase Settings:
SEN = Aut
FF = 60 (at 65 I start having to "fight" the wheel at the top end)
DRI = off
FEI = 70 (any more is too "sharp" and unnatural feeling)
FOR = 100
all else = off

Hope some of you find this useful.

Cheeky x.