Braking: Understand the Subject BEFORE Critiquing

Indeed, its all preference and built up muscle memory. I used to use 35 ( as that is the default for my Thrustmaster profile) and I use non load cell CSL elites that have a squishy brake mod which i have added a kitchen scourer sponge in between the mod and the back of the brake pedal for more stiffness ( i now premium quality right) and 50 feels much better for modulation as the 35 setting offered little margin for error as the smallest of travel when releasing the brakes meant that 100-90% was far too difficult to maintain as i would easily go into the 80% area and the lower linear curve meant that the in game pressure was too little for the current circumstances. 50 seems much more suitable for my leg muscle to better modulate.

 

All setting are tweaked to match real braking feel and technique. Are you leaving your brakes at 50% and adjusting car setups to compensate?

Also, you don't seem to understand the idea of a bell curve when it comes to braking effort. Obviously, applying the brakes if one half of the curve and releasing is the other.

 

I have a load cell brake and have always run it at 50%/linear in every sim. Since the last update, AMS 2 has no issues whatsoever with premature lockup in general. The amount of pedal required to get max brake pressure at high speeds in cars is very realistic (a lot). There may be a few cars with some set-up issues or physics glitches, but in general the old premature lock-up problem is resolved--in a manner as described by @NuScorpii above.

A load cell takes a linear brake pressure curve and makes it somewhat more realistic by physically-resisting the application of pressure the farther up the curve you go. Of course, you could bend the curve even further, but then you more or less wasted money buying a sophisticated load cell system because a) it didn't work properly in the first place (to bend the curve), or b) you wanted it bent even further than is realistic. What is realistic? Only what the sim devs can program. AMS 2 just proved that a reprogramming can make a massive difference in the braking feel and performance. Any digital bending of that curve will only distort their efforts to provide something realistic.

Of course, there may be people with physical limitations, etc., that need some artificial assistance, but the regular situation should be to try to not interfere with "nature." Same is true for curve bending in FFB. Same is true for curve bending (equalization adjustments) in audio. Etc.

 

You appear to be trying to tweak an in game setting to fix an underlying issue with your setup external to the game. My LC is setup to require ~40kg to hit max braking force. In game sensitivity is at 50% and I mostly have just been using default setups apart from putting the brake balance a bit further back.

A bell curve:


What your braking force telemetry should look like:


Braking sensitivity curves (what we are talking about):

Blue: High sensitivity
Green: Linear
Red: Low sensitivity

As we are talking about braking sensitivity, the last one is the curve we are interested in. The braking force curve in picture 2 can be generated by any of the different sensitivities. When you're talking about sensitivities it is not helpful to mention a bell curve.

 

LOL you start this thread after the braking has been fixed?

1. There was no misunderstanding or "nonsense" on our part.
2. The braking calibration was faulty because the Devs said so and fixed it.
3. The old "I don't have any problems so there must not be an issue" is tired, bro.
4. Sensitivity to zero? No thanks, I'll pass.
5. See points #1 & #2.

 

That's not how 'all' brakes work though...Jump in my 83 Mk1 Golf and you'll have the fright of your life If it was in game, I'm sure a lot would think the car was 'broken' or they just didn't like how it felt/reacted, hence...

That's why it's good to first: Have the devs write accurate coding into each cars FFB and physics, and two: For us to have the adjustments for out individual setups/tastes.

In most (What I consider modern) cars, I find myself nearly going through the windscreen while just looking at the brake pedal lol way over servo'd, with all the actual braking pressure in a very small scale after an initial squeezing of the servo air. 'Older' cars had a larger 'scale' of actual braking force, with little servo assistance, and then of course there are those without servo's at all.

 

err nope my Seven needs a much higher pressure than every other car with servo assisted brakes I have ever driven.

 

Indeed. You're actually physically pushing fluid against the caliper pistons, against the pads, squeezing the disc, rather than being assisted with air. It's what I prefer TBH! Much better mechanical feel.

 

no they didn’t. I’ve owned and driven Sevens for 20 years. The physical pressure I have to apply is pretty much the same as the wife’s Range Rover but the RR has a servo assist.

 

the pedal force required is easily within the normal range. The Seven is a small light car that does not need servo assisted brakes.

 

The Sevens I’ve driven required more than average pressure. Especially compared to modern cars where you can’t even breathe on the pedal.

But you do know there are heavier cars out there without servo assisted brakes? Not even sure why you’re trying to argue that it’s the same for every car out there.

 

Under served or no servoed when they really need to be, some cars don't have a great feel to the brakes. I've never heard any Seven owners complain about having to push too hard.

Anyway, load cell sensitivity set up and around 50% give a horrible over servoed and grabby feel to them.

 

Ok so there is a lot to read on this post but I just bought some cheap load cell pedals the T-LCM from thrustmaster and I want to know what is the best setting for 1:1 linear braking with how I have calibrated my pedals in the thrustmaster software? Default the game gives 7 deadzone and 35 brake sensitivity but that feels off. Anyone figure this out yet? Is it 0, 35, 50, 75, 100 brake sensitivity?

 

50 is linear if that’s what you want. A bit of deadzone is usually a good idea if you left foot brake and tend to rest your foot a bit on the pedal. Not sure if 7 is too much or not. You can check the brake input via the telemetry HUD.

 

Ok perfect thank you, 50 feels right. I have a deadzone set in my pedal software so no worries about it in game

 

The values below 50% are there for a reason but a church seems to have developed here whereby it’s Heresy to go below.

With throttle pedals and wheels, linear 50% is absolutely the correct way to go. Not with load cell brakes though.

 

If anyone here is trying to preach unfounded beliefs you should look closer to home. No-one is saying you can't use values below (or above), but the default is 50% for a reason.

A load cell brake is there to measure the pressure you are putting on the brake. The brake sensitivity adjustment is a modifier of the pressure you are putting on the pedal reported to the game, nothing more. You can see this by looking at the brake telemetry readout on the telemetry HUD.

A non-linear mapping is undesirable because the brake response will change if you need to modulate at different brake pressures due to weather / temperature / different cars. If you modulate the brake with a pressure difference of 5kg at 40kg (i.e. 35-40kg) under a certain set of circumstances then under a different set where only 20kg force is required you may need to modulate using a 10kg difference. A non-linear mapping will also reduce the dynamic range and accuracy in part of the braking. If using low sensitivity you will be reducing the dynamic range and accuracy when braking with high force. Using a linear brake mapping will keep the brake response consistent and lead to easier and predictable modulation.

If you find you need to use extreme brake sensitivity changes on your load cell then it is probably because you have setup the load cell incorrectly and/or not calibrated using full force and are trying to make up for it in game.

Don't assume that everyone else has the same setup to you and preach your work around as what should be.

Now maybe you can tell us exactly what provides the non-lineararity in a real braking system?

 

Well I've had my LC set always non linear, or in 'bell curve' terms, on the low-sensitivity side, in all my sims (though not a real racecar driver). I've done this since the time I observed better grip catching when releasing while slowing down into a curve. Though not as low as your value of 20... I think around 40 in other sims, but in AMS2 I still can't seem to get braking right when setting it w/in the 20-35 range (that's for the SuperV8).

 

It will give the impression of being better at gaining traction again after locking up because if you use a low sensitivity value it will release the brakes more quickly in the higher braking force area. This will get the grip back but makes it harder to modulate around the point of traction loss so will be harder to consistently brake at max rate.

If you need to use the in game sensitivity value, the usual way to set it up is to go on track in any car, stop on the circuit, switch the HUD to off, press the brake to what you think should be 50%, and then switch the HUD to telemetry. If the brake force widget shows less than 50% then increase your brake sensitivity and try again, if it shows greater than 50% then decrease sensitivity and try again until you achieve 50%.