Thrustmaster T300 driver settings for FFB

Build: V1.1.2.0

Tmx / T-150 users

Driver:
Gain 89
Constant 100
Periodic 100
Spring 100
Damper 0 (IMPORTANT)

In game: Default


Gain 89
LFB 00
FX 00
Damp 00

This works for me, I use gain for each car in edit setup (virecel specifications).

still messing around a bit

 

Build: V1.2.0.8

Tmx / T-150 users

Driver:
Gain 75
Constant 100
Periodic 100
Spring 100
Damper 0 (IMPORTANT)

In game: Default
Gain 75
LFB 34
FX 55
Damp 00

use gain for each car in edit setup (virecel specifications).

 

Build:v1.2.2.0
new control equipment

T300 RS users

Driver:
Gain 75
Constant 100
Periodic 100
Spring 100
Damper 0 (IMPORTANT)

In game: Default
Gain 75
LFB 00
FX 50
Damp 00

use gain for each car in edit setup (virecel specifications).

 

Build:V1.2.4.1

T300 RS users

Driver:
Gain 75
Constant 100
Periodic 100
Spring 100
Damper 0 (IMPORTANT)

In game: Default
Gain 80
LFB 35-40 (dependent on car)
FX 50
Damp 34 (IMPORTANT)

use gain for each car in edit setup (virecel specifications).

I recommend using old 70-90 cars (GT1. group c. GT classics.) to set ffb. because many times when setting up your ffb it is good until you drive 70-90 cars.
Enjoy

 

Build:V1.3.1.0

T300 RS users

Driver:
Gain 85
Constant 100
Periodic 100
Spring 100
Damper 100

In game: Default+
Gain 74
LFB 18
FX 48
Damp 48

Enjoy

 

Build:V1.3.4.0


T300 RS users

Driver:
Gain 75
Constant 100
Periodic 100
Spring 100
Damper 100

In game: Default+
Gain 74
LFB 9
FX 47
Damp 47

Enjoy

 

I'm wondering a bit, why is damper back to 100 in TM control panel in your recent suggestions?

 

This is developer settings to thrustmaster. Taken from beta you can find it in a thread non beta posted by Dady Cairo and here.

On T-GT with SF1000 Rim:




In game:
Gain 75
LFB 10
FX 50
Damping 50.

T-GT should be "similar in strength" as the TS-PC (afaik both have "turbo" power supply).

 

Build:V1.4.1.0

T300 RS

Driver:
Gain 75
Constant 100
Periodic 100
Spring 100
Damper 100

In game: Default+
Gain 74
LFB 9
FX 47
Damp 47

Enjoy

 

Agree but my personal preference (as a TM-TX user) is to set Damper = 0
as Thrustmaster says it also affect the weight of the wheel
and make it too heavy for my likings. The same applies to the turbo function.

Another rule is to keep TM driver/firmware updated

 

You running the TM “Boost” in control center

 

No, tried to mess with it when it came, but No, that's not for me.

 

The "self-destruction button" sponsored by Thrustmaster.It's in my driver too (TS-PC).Good joke.
Do not use it,kills your wheel faster and complete nonsens.

 

like phones that are designed to to self destruct in 2-3 years.

 

That*s the reason why 65% was once the standard setting for FFB in TMCP. And now it's 75%. What did change? EU Warranty regulations reduced warrantty from 2 years back down to 1 year.

 

Build:V1.4.1.3

T300 RS
Developer settings for CP



In game: Default+
Gain 86
LFB 21
FX 63
Damp 53

There is very little clipping in some cars in high speed corners and depending on tracks

Enjoy

 

Build:V1.4.6.1

T300 RS
Developer settings for CP



In game: Default+
Gain 72
LFB 02
FX 25
Damp 00

 

There has been a driver and firmware update for 2023.... apparently it fixes some missing ffb effects that were happening in several games.

Not sure if AMS2 was one of the games?
Still struggling to get good tire detail and decent all round settings.

 

By: @john Ellis

Sometimes, I find it more helpful to organize information visually. This rather basic, hominid-level flowchart helped me to understand how the various Reiza profiles and in-game settings interrelate. Although I basically just restated what was provided in the initial post by @Domagoj Lovric, the mechanical engineers among us no doubt could offer more cogent descriptors of a few terms, and Reiza staff could no doubt clarify things further, but you get the point....

Interestingly, the flowchart demontrates how Reiza's three distinct default profiles may be employed in a hierarchical, progressive manner to help obtain or fine tune individual FFB settings:

1) Select the Reiza Custom profile (aka, basic) in order to activate its "barebones steering torque" model. Incidentally, if you are unsure which in-game FFB values to use, check out the recommended values for Gain and Low Force Boost (LFB) listed for various wheels at the beginning of this thread. Reiza allows for some mild, persistent clipping in their FFB profiles at times, but the HUD display and a bit of common sense can quickly arrive at a set of Gain and LFB values that produce a centering force that feels natural, without undue clipping.


With the Basic FFB profile tuned with a sensible Gain setting (and an adequate LFB value), any and every vehicle in AMS2 ought to be drivable, and even raceable--although some cars seem to benefit more from LFB than others. In my experience, a car like the Group A BMW M3 exhibits a perfectly natural centering force with nothing but Gain and LFB set to Reiza’s recommended values. In fact, the M3 seems so well tuned that it doesn’t even require any LFB (e.g., Gain left at 100 and everything else turned to 0). On the other hand, cars like the Corvette C3 and Mini Cooper S (perhaps due to their default setups) require additional LFB to generate an adequate amount of centering force. Conversely, subsequent changes to suspension settings within the Advanced Setup menu may increase a vehicle’s centering force, reducing the need for higher LFB values. In any event, I tend to leave LFB at the default value, as LFB often improves those cars that need it, while not seemingly impacting those that do not. Occasionally, there may be a need to quickly tweak the LFB (up or down) on a particular car to fine tune it’s centering force, especially if using a fixed setup, for example.

2) After developing a set of Gain and Low Force Boost values, now switch to the Default profile to determine preferred Damping and FX values. Compare the Default profile (with Damping and FX both set to 0) with the Basic profile from the previous section. [Given the array of wheels available, those two profiles may or may not feel different when driving, but any differences should be negligible]. Next, turn Damping and FX both to 1 and drive … feel anything different? At this point, the EPAS model might just start to show some effects. In any event, either set both Damping and FX to about 50 (unless you have a Logitech non-DD wheel) or consult the values suggested by Reiza. These sliders interact with each other to some degree, but it’s arguably better to determine a suitable Damping value and hold it constant, and then fine tune FX, as the Damping slider accounts for the inherent damping and friction within the system. Continue to tune FX to find your preferred chassis yaw/tire scrub/road vibration mix.

3) Switch to Default+ to further fine tune FX and Damping, if needed. As before, the values of these two sliders can interact somewhat due to nature of the EPAS model, but Damping is arguably more "set it and forget it" than FX, which may require a bit of attenuation given the additional forces rendered in Default+.

4) Although the Default and Default+ profiles are certainly more complex FFB models than the Basic one provided by Reiza, they also, at times, reveal their own limitations as well as other (hopefully transitory) computational shortcomings within the sim. Feel free to choose between Reiza’s Basic, Default, and Default+ profiles based on your own results and preferences—or move on to one of the excellent, third-party Custom profiles available. If nothing else, the methodology described here can yield a better understanding of what each FFB profile and/or FFB slider actually does and how they all, in fact, interrelate with one another. Moreover, this exercise improves the ability to better evaluate the merits and drawbacks of any AMS2 FFB profile.


Post 219 by john Ellis: Automobilista 2 V1.4 Force Feedback Overview &Recommendations

Initial post by Domagoj Lovric Reiza developer: Automobilista 2 V1.4 Force Feedback Overview & Recommendations

 

It would be great if Reiza implemented a per car custom ffb saving button like iRacing.
I'm getting tired of spending most my time setting up the ffb on one car just to switch to another and have to start over again.

Just like PC1 & 2, a majority of my time in this title is spent fiddling with with ffb setting....I just want to RACE!!!