Automobilista 2 Custom Force Feedback - Overview & Recommendations

Trying doesn't hurt, experimenting is always good, so why not ... for now I can't, I've done somersaults for the last file but, if you don't succeed as soon as, I can I'll play it... let me know how it goes.

 

Oh, it's a deep rabbit hole for sure. I already can't thank you and the others here enough for your work. Looking forward to trying your latest file.

 

I quite like that wheel self centring thing as well although it’s a little strong in this file (wheel tugging through longer corners??).

Wonder where in the file this can be adjusted as I would love to add a little of it to my normal FFB.

Any of the gurus know? @Danielkart ?

 

I don't know guys... I've tried almost all the popular ffb custom files, with different settings on my simajic alpha mini... and I didn't find anything better than a default.

In all custom files, there is too much feeling for me, too much of everything, a constant struggle with the steering wheel. I want a simple and understandable feedback. In this regard, I liked the Alex291190 file, but at the same time there is a lot of garbage when the car is standing, the steering wheel turns with wild crunches as if without wheels). Only by twisting the smoothing strongly in Simagic Simpro can you get rid of this, but then everything becomes very smeared...

In terms of the purity of the feedback, I liked the ATMOS OLD RAW V option.1.6.3 but here it became difficult for me to turn too much force when entering a turn is poured, in addition, other effects such as demolitions, jumps, irregularities, loss of grip are pronounced here, and this increasingly hinders and distracts you than helps me, probably it can be customized inside the file... but how long will it take to figure it out..... I think it would be ideal if we add the ATMOS OLD RAW V frequency to the file from Alexa.1.6.3, that would be a really perfect feedback.

In the meantime, default remains more understandable to me, not even default +.

 

Yeah I think the key thing about LFB is it can't clip so turning it up doesn't tend to break driving on the limit like gain does.

I note with no ffb how many situations I can recover which I thought were getting close to points of no return and then the same situation with ffb, the ffb itself is the thing that stops me moving the wheel.

That would be my suggestion to people reading the thread who aren't sure what ffb to aim for - switch it off, get in a car with mechanical grip and somewhere like silverstone where you've plenty of space and drive aggressively and try to catch every slide and drift around. When you feel like you can control the car well in spite of no ffb, add ffb back in and see if the ffb is helping or hindering the control you just had. If it's the latter adjust gain et al so it doesn't. VR works well for this if you can stomach the sideways action.

For me the only reason I'd want a DD wheel is so the steering wheel spins and self aligns closer to the correct speed for most of the situations where you're using it to drive (Breaking my wrist if I hit the wall isn't on my bucket list of things to do)

With the dfgt I think if it feels good at normal driving speeds it tends to be too gainy and notchy right at the point where you want to do either some fast ninja 'catch the back end' stuff or subtle smooth small inputs while accelerating or braking heavily to avoid losing control in the first place. That means almost no force the rest of the time, except that lfb means it's not completely force free - it was a very clever idea to add that.

 

Thank you so much, for your work, but as I'm new here, I'm trying to comprehend all of this.

Can you give me any short idea of what is the difference between the 4 documents? I mean which I should try first or how I should use them.
I got an Asetek Forte with 18Nm dd wheel.

THanks in advance

 

The file is very rudimentary and doesn't actually allow any changes. Either you like it or you don't, that's also the case with Reiza's defaults, so you won't have any leeway to adapt it to your personal taste. As I've said many times, you can ask 1000 different people and everyone will have different ideas and different preferences. I can only recommend people to test it for themselves and decide for themselves what they should take and what they shouldn't take. Your personal feeling should be the sweet spot no matter what you prefer

 

If you don't like Reiza profiles at all and you are looking for an alternative with a strong and determined FFB I think you could start with the first 2, that are based on pure rFuktor and this is the info......

ATMOS 1.6.3 Base
(Original rFuctor 5.0.1/5.0.1.3/5.0.1.4 with some adaptation and with code extended to all 4 wheels both in the rack and in the effects)

ATMOS 1.6.3 BaseEVO
(Atmos Base as above - Relax OS_US_YAW functions + the little implementations of other Reiza's base code and variables)

If you like Reiza profiles at all and you are looking for an alternative ffb file less wavy and floating than the official profiles and with infomativity of rFuktor, then I think you could start with the last 2, which are always based on rFuktor but on which I have inserted some Reiza logic and characteristics but in rFuktor key as a symbiont and this is the info......

ATMOS Old_D_raw 1.6.3 (BaseEVO + Old_D_raw)
(Atmos BaseEVO as above + the implementation of the profile Default of Reiza's also called "Old_D_raw")

ATMOS IMMERSIVE 1.6.3 (BaseEVO + NDef_imm)
(Atmos BaseEVO as above + the implementation of the profile Default+ of Reiza's also called "NDef_imm")

It is obvious that the last 2 files should be considered my target that are most informative for ALL, both for DD and for the MEDIUM-LOW BAND, but even the BASE files are not bad and have been my obsession since the game came out.

I'm posting this info in the files post for other users.

 

Or where could I perhaps add a little of that effect in V6000?

 

i am now testing the rack file in game i have everything on 0 exept gain but what do i put in the fanatec base settings? the base makes alot of noice now

 

Hi! Thank you for your hard work. I'm new, please tell me, do I understand correctly that I can try to adjust some parameters in your files to reduce the strength and severity of any effects?

 

Thank you so much,

WIll try

 

Thank you for your work, i will try it today

 

I apologize for the length ... as general rules....
- if you like Reiza profiles, you should use them, we don't prepare custom ones just to beat the parent company, I think most of us do it out of passion, but above all, to offer an alternative;
- if you don't like Reiza profiles, you should look for alternatives and then you're in the right place;
- new alternatives are always different from what you've usually used and especially the rFuktor compared to Reiza profiles works with a different logic and level, if necessary resetting your brain and wanting to recreate a pleasant custom;
- if this above is not necessary and you can't go on if what you like most is always there, it means you have to ask on the other discussion of official Reiza profiles.
- But the goal remains to help you as much as I can.

Regardless of everything, feedback is always welcome so thank you, but if I may recommend ... (I put the text inside the spoiler so as not to bore others user while reading)

Spoiler: ADVISE

what you highlight about the use of all custom files seems only an incorrect setting of the cursors (and maybe also of the base) and also an affection for your normal Reiza custom.
Regardless of your wheel and the custom file you will use (it doesn't matter while), if the FX slider if lowered will reduce almost all the effects that you can't stand and to your liking, if you also lower the GAIN you will also lower the rack's strength level, finally only the LFB and the DAMPING would remain to be set;
With any file you have to dedicate time to it, I don't think you can have the difficulties you sustain if you start from a setting like this: GAIN 50 - LFB 5 - FX 25 - DP 5 (if your DD is very powerful over 20nm even the lowest gain around 35 and the lfb at 0 and the flying base with maximum force set between 50-75% without using the damping of the flying base).
Once you have done this, raise the GAIN in steps of 5 until the rack is not too much for you, if you overtake it, go back to smaller and smaller steps until you find your taste (you don't like the movement?? the file turns off at low values so there will be a value for you).
Do the same with FX, there must also be a level that does not bother you, if you get to 0 the effects turn off.
The LFB depends on the base but is not so binding especially if you keep it low;
Lastly the DAMPING, which goes to taste and philosophy, but as a rule raised until there are no oscillations on the steering wheel and until the sensations are stunned, you must reach a level that is acceptable for you, if you don't like it even 0.
Once you have done this, that's where the beauty of custom profiles begins, because if you find your 75%-90% of taste you can intervene on every single voice you want ... if you don't want to go crazy you have to stay on the Reiza profiles, adjust the sliders and go!!!

If you want you can reduce item "master_rack" from 1.00 to 0.75 but why you don't reduce the gain or the fx???
In most cases is wrong to do quick tests on the sliders and start immediately with the internal modification of the file values, these are files to be used mainly using the sliders in play. For the internal modifications to the individual items you will have time and it requires a bit of practice.

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I would like to try to integrate Alex's essential file but it is not so automatic, or rather it would be even simple, but it would be difficult to do it without introducing scales and changes that then also had to be done on the basic ... unfortunately I do not have the time for this and my health allows me to carry on only one project, sometimes not even that ... but if I can and no one else can I will try.
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I am always available for any need, have a good day.

 

Thx for this file!
though, just one question. Should we set LFB to any value in-game? Or are those 0,15 LFB set in your file automaticly applied even when LFB ist set to 0 in the FFB-settings?

 

@Stakanov I tried your new immersive FFB...all i can say this is the FFB im looking for, its almost like Raceroom, but with more details, and more less clipping than the previous files before..i have zero clipping (or just a notch) even on hard turns with kerbs

i can tune up my in game settings a little bit higher.

CSW V2 Settings in game(Tested with GTE class on Virginia with 100% vehicle specific FFB, where i have more clipping with the previous file):
Gain: 75 ( previous file: 70-73)
LFB: 5 (previous: 0 or 1)
FX: 38 (previous 30-32)
Damper: 5 (previous 15-20)

Base settings:
SEN: Auto
FFB: 100
FOR: 100
DRI: 2
Spring: 0
Damper: 0

I hope i can help with others with similar base with this settings

 

I have an issue with this thou. When the car is stationary, turning the wheel is almost impossible. Is it normal?

 

I'm very pleased and happy for you, the slightly higher gain confirms the lower level of forces and stresses, the damping has had a small modification in the code that links it to the FX slider marginally (as in the Immersive profile) and therefore you show me that this also works (as on my weak base) and also a greater use of the LFB cursor, even if moderate, means that everything is more organic and allows greater use of the sliders.
THX for the feedbck

 

Astonished, this time you really surprised me (at this point I lied the other times), now I understand why you deliberately kept the file a bit overexcited until today. The file has become a silk now but also informative as before.

My son thanks you and I no less, as always wonderful work very well on both bases that you guys see in my signature.

 

Gain is probably your friend. I think that's more or less all that will be in effect for the in-game settings.

Although having tested both side by side I'd say pretty much what default+ does makes the raw, noisy signal from the physics engine smoother across a bunch of different wheels.

If you have a really smooth DD motor maybe it works really well.

But to my mind you start with this file back at the beginning again and you'll add lines to that file until you get to more or less where default+ is.

It's like here are 3 lines that do force feedback. It works. But original author added a line to get the nice histogram. Next person along adds a line for the LFB so it works better with older, low force wheels. Someone else has already noticed the resistance you get when the car isn't moving kinda sucks (and feels really notchity and geary on old wheels as well) - undoubtedly there's a line or 2 that will get rid of that because you mostly just want to centre the wheel in the pits or on the start line.

Then you notice that although it has all the information you need to drive the car it is, as I say, a bit spikey so maybe someone else will smooth it out.

And that's what default+ does. Until a few months later someone will come along starting from scratch again.

The rest is really just setting up gain at various points to suit your wheel. e.g my wheel sucks long before you get clipping. Hence 60 gain in the settings and usually lowering to 70% in the vehicles to get something where it feels smooth as butter when it matters, so I can easily make small fingertip adjustments to the steering when the force is at its highest mid corner. The rest of the time with those settings it would feel nothing were it not for LFB.