This video is not for anyone looking for a two-minute copy and paste some numbers. If you want a relaxing and informative tour through how to optimize your FFB, please enjoy this great video produced by @andy_east123. This covers material I have answered and re-answered dozens of times over several years here on the forums. From now on, questions just get a link to this Let us know if this helps.
@CrimsonEminence does this deserve a pin? (could be a nice idea - Marc's suggestions have greatly improved my experience in any case)
Nice Video I enjoyed watching it quite a bit. Thank you both for putting that together. Eveyone should watch it and kill the endless "what settings" threads. Appreceating this is an excellent clean and simple instrcution on how to find one's perfered settings... It would be nice to know the type of wheel base, and it's peak foce to better put settings in context and for comparison. Cheers, Tomek
Hi Tomek, It is a Cammus C5. Details in the link below: Global First CAMMUS C5 Direct Drive Steering Wheel - CAMMUS Racing Simulator All the best Andy
Thanks for the useful information. Having just come back to the game after some time away I thought it pertinent to re-visit my ffb settings using this guide. One thing not mentioned, and I guess only relevent to fanatec DD bases (I have a DD1), or DD wheels in general, is that difference between peak and linear (wheel base setting) is huge. I was on peak but have now tried linear and much prefer it. Peak has a very compressed feeling in comparison so linear requires a considerably greater wheelbase strength setting. I found I'm running less FX from the game but need a little more damping. Bumps and curbs can be quite jolting! I now have much more feel for the front end. I'm not any faster ultimately, but certainly more consistent. Each to their own but I'd recommend trying it out.
All possible settings should be linear, neutral, default. That was always step one of my advice list, so glad you are experiencing the benefits of it. To put it simply, any sim worth using will be designed for realistic settings, not "tweaked" or "biased" levels or features that wheels often include to allow you to "customize" your own experience. Very similar to an audio equalizer in your hi-fi system. It can be used legitimately to compensate for inadequacies in your equipment or listening space, but be aware that the recording engineers and performing artists chose what they thought was the most appropriate balance. Of course, we might have wheel hardware issues, but even then experiencing the FFB as it was intended prior to changing the basic balance is always a good idea. It often turns out it is better to accept the developers' best attempt and learn to live with whatever might be inadequate in the hardware. This is especially true in a title like AMS 2 where ALL the FFB is physics based and not canned effects.
As an audio engineer and musician I can jive with the metaphor! In about 5 years of owning the DD1, I've never touched this setting, peak was the default, and I passed it by not realising the relevance. Read about it over the lmu forum. Misleading label if you ask me, more like a compressor and brick wall limiter working together in the loudness wars! It's more like peak all the time rather than feel the peak hit you occasionally, which is how I mistakenly thought of it. I'm Loving the subtle build up of load, into brutal peaks as the tyres heat up driving the lmp2 g2 cars. Maybe one day my brain will be fast enough to deal with the modern F1 cars!
@ChasteWand After reading your post, I realized my DD1 was also set to Peak. Will try this evening on Linear! Would you mind possibly sharing your Fanalab / in game settings? Very curious . Thanks!!
It is often a challenge just to figure-out the settings on our wheels and which ones are adding bias and distortion to the FFB signals coming from a game/sim. If you have discovered anything useful, like the Fanatec DD "peak" setting, please also share it in the comments of the YT video since people will get to it from other sources than here in this thread. Thanks.
I use simhub with two bass shakers, front and rear, and like a lot Default+ with zero dampening and fx. When I enable FX, the effects are great in wheel, but create some vibrations that interfere with shakers feedback, most noticeable in wheel slip and lock.
Glad my post helped at least one person! In game I'd strongly suggest using the feedback widget found in the HUD, one where it shows tyre temp/pressure ect and switch to the extra screen. You might have configure your controller assignments (options/controls/edit assignments/gameplay, cycle HUD display and cycle telemetry mode). Turn down ffb gain until you don't get any red bar, far right on widget indicates clipping. Varies considerably on FX level, and a lot car to car depending on speed and downforce! Hopefully I'm not teaching you to suck eggs. In game for the lmp2 g2, again probably going to be a bit different depending on car; Default + Gain: 40 Low force boost: 0 FX :66 Damping: 40. Fanalab, only important ones given; Ffb gain: 85 Ffs: Linear!!! Kind of ironic, FFS, don't you think? adults only! Ndp: 10 Still playing with, Nfr: 5 and nin: 15, could possibly go higher for a bit more resistance at low forces/center... Finally, Int: 3. Don't know if that's going help though, it's quite a personal and car dependant feeling. Have fun tuning.
