Adjusting gain in the game or adjusting strength in the wheelbase?

Which is technically better and why?

If a user wants more or less "resistance" while playing AMS2, is it a better practice to adjust the in-game gain setting or adjust the wheelbase strength setting?

I understand the FFB can be adjusted per car, but that's just a quick fine tuning/multiplier. I'm taking about adjusting a general baseline...

 

Now you did it.lol This has been debated to death. A bunch of us tried this back when everyone started going DD with PCARS. Most of us chose 100 on the base turn it down in the game.Not a huge difference either way but noticeable and you limit the base if you turn it down there but you also have the chance of taking a full force hit from the wheel and some dont want to take that chance. So do whatever you feel comfortable with and enjoy using.

 

Perhaps, a split in the middle might be the best advice for a DD2... Gain 40, Wheel Strength 35% since I use a fanatec F1 smaller wheel, got to tone down the force. If I had a larger diameter wheel, then I could easily increase the strenght.

 

Id say as long as its comfortable to drive,the ffb is good and youre happy with it use it.

 

In-game: As high as you can get to 100% without clipping. On the wheelbase: less if you have lots of torque, max if you have a lower-power base. Reasoning:

1) If the game ever bugs out and starts sending maxed out FFB when your wheelbase is at 100%, you're gonna injure yourself with a 25 Nm DD wheelbase.

2) The FFB signal sent out is most likely coded in finite-precision (i.e. integer-valued). Lowering the maximum values sent by the game will then lose fidelity in the signal and make the FFB signal "notchy". Modern wheelbases have all sorts of post-processing algorithms to smooth out those notches and generate a continuous force, but you are then feeling the effect of the reconstruction algorithms and not the original intended FFB.

 

I tend to find a happy medium range between the Base output and the game ffb gain setting. It's certainly the safer option with strong DD-bases.

100% output (Wheel-base): I've been testing this in rF2 of late and can't say that I notice a big difference in overall ffb fidelity. There is some additional force available for more extreme circumstances and the resistance in steering during high-speed cornering feels a bit more solid but, I'm not sure there's much difference in detail.

With a 25Nm base, there is plenty of range in reserve. With less power though, I can see why one would lean toward maximum base output.

In AMS2, the key for me is finding a good baseline custom ffb-profile, making a few tweaks and enjoy the ffb that AMS2 does so well.

 

On iRacing forums there are several guys who know a bloody lot about DD wheelbases and how do they work. I learned a good bit when I was active there from people like Beano (the one who pushed Granite Devices into the simracing market with the Simucube controller), Brion Sohn, Jason Jodorski, Ollie Aina (who was one of the first guys to offer DIY kits for OSW builds, and runs Sim-Plicity), etc.

What I learned from those guys, is that you should always set the wheelbase on its drivers to deliver max torque available, and then tamper it back in game.

The reason is that the drivers have bigger say on the torque output than what the game is limiting. If you open the tap to the max there and limit in game, the extra window of torque is still available for delivering details with bigger clarity thanks to the broader torque range. If you do it backwards, the wheelbase will never exceed the torque specified on the driver, and the window of work will be narrower, reducing fidelity.

I do understand the concerns about safety, but that's the reason why you should have an e-stop or any sort of security measure on hand for a quick power down. You don't even need a high torque setting for it: if the PC locks up and needs a restart, it could very well be that it will want to spin endlessly, and that's a dangerous situation no matter if you are set to 5 Nm or 20 Nm. It will spin fast anyway.

With that being said: Danielkart recommends using it backwards, and he knows more about FFB on AMS2 than what I will ever learn, so take what I said with a grain of salt, because what works best on other games may not be the best for this one. And I'm using his files for custom FFB!

 

Maybe should invite @Danielkart to this thread for his opinion on this exact issue so he can explain why he recommends in-game gain to be maxed out and strength on the on wheel to be really low ?

 

100% in wheel base software and adjust in game is the correct method with the custom files also .

with the added bonus of being able to adjust gain per car on the few occasions that you need to , otherwise 90% of cars don’t require any adjustments after base settings found and if the do it’s only + or - 10 usually. .

 

Hi guys! This is a very complex subject because there are many factors that can influence it. I am the practitioner not the theorist. Much of what has been said here is correct, but I will not tell anyone how to set their base. These are recommendations from me, but that doesn't mean they're good for everyone. Listen to your own feelings and test a lot. My tip for the people: Test 100% gain in the game and 20% gain at the base. Then 20% gain in the game and 100% gain at the base. Pay attention to the FFB graph in the hud and find out what you are feeling. You might notice something

 

I would never ever set 100% at the Fanatec DD2 base. Too dangerous.

25Nm driving the small Formula rim could easily harm your fingers or arms.

 

The way i do it is by monitoring the in game graph in order to set the in game strength as high as possible whilst ensuring the signal that goes to the wheelbase is never clipped. Eau Rouge is handy for this. Then set the wheel strength to determine the overall force feeling that you are happy with and that seems realistic. I've settled on 50 in game force (with 60 damping and 20 FFX) and between 50 and 60 in the Fanatec driver - Fanalab comes in handy as you can set specific settings for each car which are loaded automatically.

 

Instead of relying on Fanalab detect the correct car, alt-tab to change the strength and save for each car, do you feel it would be just as accurate and simpler to increase/decrease the FFB in real time in the game with mapped buttons for each car?

 

You can do that if you like - but adjusting the strength in game is not the same as changing strength on the wheel. BTW - Fanalab detects the cars perfectly so their is no downside - plus each cars profile gives the ability to tailor all the other wheel sttings like brakeforce and the LEDs on a per car basis

 

There is an ideal range for in-gain in the game in Ams2, which is around 60-75% depending on the base (based on my customs). Too much of it results in clipping too little of it you lose FFB details. This in-gain in the game increases or decreases many things for you. The gain at the base, on the other hand, is the pure power, i.e. how many peaks in Nm you want. But now there is something very important. The recommended in-game and base settings from Reiza or the base manufacturer always refer to the default and not to a custom file. In my opinion, that's the advantage of a custom. I can fine tune these powers and balance to my base. That's why it's important to decide for the default or a custom first. Then you can fine-tune the settings

 

Would you be able to kindly explain the difference? I'm really interested in finding out why that is...

 

See my earlier post...