I have a T300. I also have no real issues with the settings recommended for TM wheels, except for the amount of gain (in-game gain, CP gain is up to your own preference) is still a bit too high with the cars I've tried if they're left at 100% car specific gain, so I'd suggest going a bit lower still, say to 75 (or lower car specific to 95-ish). But that's also a bit subjective, because it depends on how much clipping you're willing to tolerate. Everything you said is correct, except for the last bit. That's not true. CP gain has no effect on FFB clipping on TM wheels (or rather - on any regular consumer wheels, can't speak at all for DD), they don't really have hardware clipping, so any clipping you will get will be coming from the software side, as in from the game itself, and in-game clipping depends entirely on in-game gain settings, not on you wheel CP settings. Again, you're approaching this completely backwards. You should not adjust in-game gain to get your prefered forces/torque at the wheel, and if the signal from the game starts to clip heavily at say 80 percent, it doesn't matter if your wheel CP gain is set to 50 or 100, it will always get the same signal with the same amount of clipping when in-game is set at 80, just the forces you feel in your hands will be different (weaker or stronger, but they will always include software-side clipping). High CP gain does not magically create more headroom for in-game settings to go higher, it simply makes everything feel stronger. Technically that is true, but see above, that's thinking about the whole thing backwards. If you have a weaker wheel, you can try to achieve the same average strength of forces as on a stronger wheel, but at certain point, all you'll be doing will be adding clipping. It's basically the same as if you had a weak portable speaker and a big hifi system, both connected to the same audio source (game) and an amplifier (in-game FFB settings). You can try to match the volume produced by the big system by ramping up the volume (gain) on the small one, but once you pass the physical limit of what the small speaker is able to take (its 100% CP gain), all you'll achieve is you'll start to get audio that's more and more distorted (is clipping) and doesn't really get any louder, and if you go up enough, you'll get unlistenable garbage and the speaker will get damaged. A weaker wheel can only ever provide the strength you'll get if you set it to 100% in CP and to the edge of clipping in game. If you want more strength still, then you're out of luck. You can lower the forces (by lowering the CP gain, ideally, so as not to lose any detail), but you just can't get any higher than that, no matter what you do - except getting a stronger wheel. Ramping up in-game gain would be a wrong thing to do (but it's sadly quite common for people to do that in that situation). Fair enough, makes sense, but in that case, it makes even less sense to send more in-game gain to the weaker wheels, I was just trying to come up with a possible justification (but should've thought about it a bit more, you're right).