Hi, As we know there are 6 bars in the ffb histogram in the in game telemetry. 5 of them in increments of 20% and the last one exceeding 100% - showing if clipping is occuring. I ve switced to a more powerfull dd base - invicta 27Nm - and i see that only my fisrt 2 bars show activity. I have the base on full and in game gain i think at 30%. So my question is this, eventhough i ve read the relative sections in this forum... Do I miss information without having next 3 bars active? Do i need to find a sweetspot between base torgue and ingame gain to have all the histogram active? I m concerned about missing details the game is produsing, which i don t want. I m testing on default+, but i ll switch to a custom one as i always do. Thank you!
As an experiment, try adjusting your In-Game "gain" up until you get brief flashes of the red clipping indicator on a very strong cornering sequence. Then back off the gain a bit until the brief red flashes are gone in the same corner sequence. This should set up your wheel performance for max performance, but after doing that, you should then adjust the gain to suit your own preferences. It doesn't actually have to be that strong, and in fact if you're holding the wheel too strongly, you might even be dampening some of the finer details or influencing the natural aligning forces of the wheel while cornering. The general rule is for the wheel base to be at 100%, and then adjust the in-game gain to suit. And then in-car you can also adjust the gain per car if you assign the + and - keys for FFB strength, save the set up afterwards, and that car FFB gain setting will be saved for the next time.
Sorry, for taking too long to answer, I ve been away, thank you very much for this info. Thing is, if I try to make the base clip, i could never turn the wheel!!! Also, what do you mean that this would set up my wheel for max performance? Will it unlock smth that is locked after I tune it down after? I do have my base at max and adjusted in game. Thank you for your assistance.
Max performance means final output capability just below the clipping levels. BUT, this doesn't mean that you have to actually use this performance level. It just means that the power levels are set to a range that controls the clipping of the output. Then you can decide what level at or below that point is suitable for your own needs that is related to the wheel and base that you have, and the car type selected, and ultimately what feels comfortable for you. Once you have the clipping point set for a particular car and track combo, try reducing the in-car gain as you drive until you start to loose that stronger force feeling until it feels like the details are almost gone. Then add the in-car gain until the feeling is very strong to the point where your gripping the wheel with a lot of control. Now you have an idea of the range of operation for that car/track combo, and all you have to do is find some point somewhere between the low and high strengths that suits your preferences. There's no right or wrong way to set it, it's up to you. But, most users that have gone through this exercise for a long time mostly agree that having strength too low is not enough control to drive effectively, and having a heavy level of strength in most respects gives a better sense of control, but going too far on the strong side will saturate the wheel and the fine details of the road and tire feel will become masked by shear wheel static force. In other words, too much static force (strong force at all times) doesn't allow you to feel the natural build up and drop off of forces based on where the car is on track. Too much static force will also tend to mask the effects of driving on the limits and finding that point where you exceed the tire slip limits and then recovering. This is usually experienced by getting under-steer in visual and car position, but not actually feeling the under-steer effect in the wheel forces. Hope this helps
Ī¤hank you so much!! I apreciate taking the time and provide such a thorough explanation. It sure helps!!!
