Just bought it...

Hi,

I just bought Automobilista + season pass on Steam.
In my library appeared Automobilista and Automobilista BETA, both are currently downloading (16.4 GB each, ouch).
What's the difference between the two ?

 

AMS Beta for testing of new content & developments before main release

 

In the Beta you get to try the latest developments, improvements and/or content before it is released to the public version. This sometimes means weeks in advance. It also gets updated more regularly.

 

And which one do you recommend playing ?

 

Depends. Beta has all the latest stuff, but no public multiplayer.
It's wip and is intended more for testing purposes and giving feedback to the devs.
Most people use the public version for most of their playtime, i presume.

 

I generally play the beta when there's a difference, but keep all my mods and stuff in the main one. There's not really any issue with switching between them really, when there's no beta content in testing they're both the same.

 

Great, thank you all.

 

As CCKaren said, I keep my beta version without mods, tracks etc so if you find a problem when testing the devs will ask whether it is a pure copy.
Welcome @Neo-ST

 

Thanks.
I'm trying to configure throttle sensitivity, and now I'm in axis setup screen.
How do I know which of these are throttle, wheel, brake, clutch ?
There's S0, S1, Rz, Rx, etc.
Got no clue, tried finding that info but no success. :/

 

If you are in the input setup, you can see, what axis on what controller is set to what function ;-)
Then, in axis setup, chose controller (bottom buttons) and you're done

 

It was right in front of my eyes and I didn't see it
Thanks

 

I have one more question.
I don't know where to find that option since I haven't played racing sims much in my life, but I did go wild with my cars in real life.

When I'm going into the corner and car starts drifting, I go into the opposite lock, but then the force feedback goes nuts trying to fight me into the opposite way. It's really strong, how do I loosen it up a bit ?

For example, going straight, left corner coming. I turn into the corner, car goes sideways, now I'm in opposite lock (my wheel is turned to the right). FF is strongly trying to turn it to left.
It's a bit difficult to maintain a precise opposite lock with such force trying to disrupt it, especially if you're trying to connect several corners.

I have a G25 wheel. Any help appreciated. And sorry if I type funny, English is not my native language

 

What strength do you run your FFB in game and in the wheel control panel?

 

This is in profiler, and in game it is -100% I think (default?)

 

turn off the centre spring. also -100 is reversed ffb? i use 100 but i have a thrust master.

 

Tried, no effect.

Pozz..
Hardcore level, all assists off I don't use them, never did, never will.
I use pure 360.
I found out that lowering ffb strength from -100 to -80 helps a bit, but it's not a solution, because that just lowers all ffb effects.
Also, there's no explanation of "low force boost", what it does?
Also, some cars could use some tweaking.
They're too prone to understeering at low speeds. When I find time, I'd like to point out some obvious inconsistencies vs. real-life car handling. I don't know how serious will anyone take me, but I really like this game (I think it's far better than AC, PC, etc.) so I'd naturally like to help it become even better.

 

low force boost as like a minimum force setting. It boosts low end forces to exaggerate them. On cheaper wheels there are ffb deadzone this helps a little to rid that. most logitechs have this!

Have you tried setting the ffb to 100 not negative?

car handling is something that reiza most times don't get wrong. These are sims don't forget you cant replicate all a cars handling characteristics on a home pc.

Also what your talking above is the self aligning torque of your wheel. correct?

 

I tried, it just goes nuts, so I returned it to -75%
What I'm talking about is hard to explain. Self aligning...aligning to what exactly ?
Let me try explaining this way.
Imagine you're entering a long long left corner and you wanna drift it.
You do it by either releasing the throttle and using weight shifting to initiate drift, applying brakes for the same reason, giving it a "push" with a wheel yank to the left, etc.

Then during the drift, you are in opposite lock. Your steering wheel is turned slightly to the right, but inevitably, the car starts losing the momentum, so to keep it in a drift, you need to add some throttle and correct the trajectory by slightly turning the steering wheel either to the right (if there was too much throttle) or to the left (to keep it dropping out of the drift).

THOSE slight corrections are difficult, because for some reason, FFB tightens up and makes the wheel difficult to turn. And in those situations, when fast and precise response is important, it just ruins it.
It's probably self-aligning to where your wheels are pointing at the moment, and doesn't like changing that.

There should be some force to it, but not this much, and so far, I haven't seen an option to tweak that. Only the overall FFB strength (which dampens all effects) and low FFB boost (which is irrelevant to this).

 

sounds like aligning torque which I find AMS gets right rather than rf2 where its non existent in many cars. Thus feeling like ur on ice.

having said that ur ffb sounds off. Nobody has complained about ffb much and I moan a lot lol