T300RS freezing on AMS

Discussion in 'Automobilista - Help & Support' started by polo199, Mar 27, 2017.

  1. polo199

    polo199 Member AMS2 Club Member

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    My T300RS has been freezing on several occasions lately. I can recall 2 events :
    • Online race with Formula Trucks@Caruaru
    • This week's TT (27/03/2017), F-Reiza@MontrealGP
    Each time it does the same, the wheel main light shuts down and I loose all FFB. FFB reset is not doing anything. If I try to quit the session or the game, the AMS process is all frozen up and I can recover full control of my PC by manually killing it with the Task Manager.
    I've also managed to get both the wheel and AMS back by unplugging the wheel and plugging it back in.
    It does that randomly without having to play for long sessions (30 mins e.g.).
    I've got no problem on Assetto Corsa with longer game sessions (90 minutes).
    Wheel is both running latest firmware and latest driver.
    That very last time, I've managed to gather some error messages from the EventVwr (please see attached screenshots).

    I'm trying to figure out whether my PC, my wheel or AMS is the cause here. Thanks in advance for your help.
    error1.png error2.png error3.png error4.png
     
  2. Marcos Furriel

    Marcos Furriel Active Member AMS2 Club Member

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    I use the T300RS and I never had this issue.
    Some people has problem with T500. Try decrease the FFB force and change the USB port.
     
  3. Rodders

    Rodders Active Member AMS2 Club Member

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    I suspect it's a problem on the connection/PC/Wheel side rather than the game causing it. Usual suspects in connections - the USB port on the PC, the USB connector on your wheel or the USB cable connection into your wheel.

    Try a diff USB port on PC, wiggle the USB cable at the PC and wheel side to see if you can make a disconnect happen. That should hopefully help you focus in on the cause.

    If none of the above sheds light on it try uninstalling then re-installing the wheel drivers and check the wheel firmware is at the current level.

    I too had a T300 and never had this problem.
     
  4. polo199

    polo199 Member AMS2 Club Member

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    Thanks for your answers gentlemen.

    I think I have pinpointed the issue on the pedals. Actually, I was loosing the USB connection on these quite often. Yesterday evening, I've lost everything in the middle of a TT run. Actually wheel was fine but no gas or brake anymore. The game froze for some time then it came back after 20 seconds.
    I had the same errors in eventlog.
    My pedals are 5-years old. No intensive usage but that could be the end of it (nowadays, 5 years is considered long term right? :) ).
    So I have 3 tracks:
    1. USB cable/plug.
    2. Dead pedals.
    3. Maybe motherboard on my PC (5 years old too and used quite intensively) which could have an impact on USB ports (because wheel and pedals are connected to different ports).
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2017
  5. Msportdan

    Msportdan Well-Known Member AMS2 Club Member

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    there both vehicles with high FFB feeling, maybe the wheel is on its way out. My t300 has started to create a hot smell after a few hours, its about 2-3 years old. But no noticeable loss in fffb vo.
     
  6. Rodders

    Rodders Active Member AMS2 Club Member

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    Could that be a build up of dust Dan? Ever opened the wheel up?
     
  7. polo199

    polo199 Member AMS2 Club Member

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    T300 is known for not being 100% properly cooled-off. IIRC, there are some topics on the net about needing to open-up the wheel and switch the fan direction to make it a blower (by default it seems to be in an extracting direction, which is a bit dumb when one's take into account there is no blowing fan and few openings in the wheel covert).
    However, this is a "minor" improvement. Under heavy load during hot days, it will still run quite hot (and go into degraded mode if too hot).
     
  8. polo199

    polo199 Member AMS2 Club Member

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    Just adding an update:
    • I've solved the issue by connecting the pedals to a dedicated USB port instead of a USB hub (to which my wheel is also connected). Splitting the connection like that seems to have resolved the issue. Strange, this had been working for quite some time... Anyway, problem solved.
     

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