Automobilista 2 V1.0.5.0 RELEASED - Now Updated to v1.0.5.1

Discussion in 'Automobilista 2 - News & Announcements' started by Renato Simioni, Oct 31, 2020.

  1. Mike1304

    Mike1304 Well-Known Member AMS2 Club Member

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    I have force feedback problem with karts: if I slam the brake so that wheels lock I don’t feel force feedback (G27). Shouldn’t I feel scrubbing of the locked tyres? Doesn’t matter if I set FX to 0% or 100%...
    Any ideas or is it normal behaviour?
     
  2. CrimsonEminence

    CrimsonEminence Custom Title Staff Member AMS2 Club Member

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    I don't know how it exactly is with rear tyre FFB information and AMS2, but Go-Karts usually don't feature front brakes, so front wheels are unlikely to scrub at full brake lock.
     
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  3. GearNazi

    GearNazi Well-Known Member

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    Would very much like to know as well!
     
  4. mister dog

    mister dog Well-Known Member AMS2 Club Member

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    Weird, maybe I should delete my user file from 'my documents' (again), see what gives. It felt nice don't get me wrong but it's the little physics nuances I feel with ACC that seem to be lacking. The 'being on rails feeling' is the most accurate way I can describe it; in ACC I have to watch out with stomping on the brakes at the very last moment, here the car doesn't even twitch when I was expecting a bit of a lockup or a slide. Then the cars in ACC experience understeer if you happen to turn in too late and miss the apex, and they can bite you with oversteer on exit as well at times if you mash the throttle. In AMS2 you just turn in and it bites every time, cornering in general feels like child's play in comparison, you have to be a real cowboy to get yourself into a 'moment'.
     
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  5. Ettore

    Ettore Well-Known Member AMS2 Club Member

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    I agree :D So used to CC that I can't race without it now. I keep it on even in practice :p
     
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  6. Ettore

    Ettore Well-Known Member AMS2 Club Member

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    It's weird really. Probably it has something to do with players individual wheel setup or the way sims use different wheels?
    I would say exactly the same things of ACC: every time I try and drive it I get a huge amount of FFB and effects just as soon as I turn the wheel off center. Whether I am asking 0.1g or 2g to the car the FFB will not tell me cause the amount of force is almost flat once you leave the center. The only thing you get is that immediate huge increase in FFB followed by a crazy amount of load transfer completely overwhelming the grip effects. No nuances whatsoever, totally uncommunicative especially of the rear. After turning in, in one second or two you find out (just visually) if the car sticks or not.
    The other thing I really like in AMS2 and hate in ACC is car setups: here every time you change something even by a reasonably small amount the car reacts, every little change makes a difference and you immediately feel if you are faster. There I had to make notes of the changes I made to remember them because even a 30% change did not change the car behavior or the lap time. It seems every different car has a mind of its own and you can't change it: it's all about how you cope and drive it.
    Like I said, maybe it's a case of every sim using hardware differently and requiring very different hardware settings to give proper feelings? Hard to say o_O
     
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  7. CrimsonEminence

    CrimsonEminence Custom Title Staff Member AMS2 Club Member

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    It definetly is.

    There is quite a thing with rF2 killing Logitech wheels over kerbs even at lower gain settings, while delivering not very good overall detail, without tweaking. (The default Radical produces so heavy jolts in my G27 over kerbs, that i really was fearing damage to it, while it is actually pretty "normal" with the CSL)

    Or AC/ACC not handling lower FFB strength wheels that good in terms of detail. (AC1 with the G27 felt horribly numb. When i got the CSL Elite, my jaw was dropping in comparison after 200m with a C7 GT2 Corvette, which is not even the "most communicative" car in the game)

    R3E already oscillates a lot with newer more powerful wheels with less inertia, without being on the most detailed side of "slow forces" already, if not tweaked with some care.

    AMS1 actually was delivering so much detail over my Logitech MOMO already, that i was really questioning, if it received some kind of modding (bought it used some day, you never now :D).

    And so on...

    And then there are other factors like something like the very powerful FEI setting with Fanatec wheels, which kills every clarity and small details at very low settings, but reduces noise/abruptly accelerating forces or not fairly well tested/tweaked wheel profiles for stuff on the more "power user" side and some games might work better with it, than others.
     
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  8. mister dog

    mister dog Well-Known Member AMS2 Club Member

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    That sounds a bit like you are running too much gain and it starts clipping (heavy wheel). Then again it's a podium so dunno :p
     
  9. Dean Ogurek

    Dean Ogurek "Love the Simulation You're Dreaming In." AMS2 Club Member

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    rFactor2 needs more Damping in FFB to tame those jolts. Of course, the json file can be tweaked provided one knows where to make changes. rF2 offers more than one method of applying ffb-effects; Damping or Friction methodology may be used but, I'm not sure that helps mainstream wheels. I have used both methods with mostly similar results.

    Common consumer wheels lack a direct damping setting at the motor (firmware level), so if the FFB output doesn't include some, jolts and oscillation are harder to eliminate / solve.

    I know it's common practice to turn off Damping / Spring effects with some wheels but, rF2 does output some forces through the Direct-Input channels that could prove useful. Such effects may only impact parked steering-resistance forces (typically Damping) but, could possibly help to stabilize the steering system to some extent (Spring Effect in rF2).

    Game-ffb output may include some Direct-Input effects. RaceRoom is one title that utilizes them more than most.

    DD wheels offer direct Damping and Friction applied at the servo-motor so, it's an easy fix.
     
  10. CrimsonEminence

    CrimsonEminence Custom Title Staff Member AMS2 Club Member

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    Higher ingame smoothing already does the trick. Which still comes with detail loss, like using damping. (The G27 is already a pretty damped wheel to begin with, a method to add additional damping just makes it even more mushy, especially if it's older and more coggy)

    The "drift" setting on Fanatec wheels, for example is all about managing the motor own permanent damping influences by firmware.

    I'm always using Spring and Damper at 100% on all my wheels, because it's just the channel itself and not a permanent effect (At least with Logitech, Fanatec)
     
  11. Rodger Davies

    Rodger Davies Well-Known Member

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    The patch notes say more info is coming soon on custom skins, so I think the patch includes the ability to add in new skins but we'll still need the templates and methodology to follow later.
     
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  12. Marlonracer

    Marlonracer New Member

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    Thank you! That did the trick! My wheel type is Fanatec separated pedals I had it to combined.
    Thanks
     
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  13. Ettore

    Ettore Well-Known Member AMS2 Club Member

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    I tinkered with it so many hours... Will give it a try again when I have some time see if anything has changed or I can find something reasonable that before I couldn't :oops:
     
  14. Marlonracer

    Marlonracer New Member

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    McLaren 650 GT3 Please
     
  15. 2ndLastJedi

    2ndLastJedi Free speech matters AMS2 Club Member

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    Can you tell me how to best apply dampening in rF2 for me using aCSWv2?
     
  16. CrimsonEminence

    CrimsonEminence Custom Title Staff Member AMS2 Club Member

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    Because i found the link the last days, i'm so free posting it again:
    Drift mode at "off" is the motor-firmware own default damping with CSW v2
    https://fanatec.com/eu-de/faq/details/id/101

    (Use ingame damper in AMS2 by recommendation though.)
     
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  17. 2ndLastJedi

    2ndLastJedi Free speech matters AMS2 Club Member

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    I've always used DRI 0 on my wheel even when recommenee -3. I've got smoothing to 4 in rF2 and dampening up to 10 in AMS2 .
    Thanks for the link, i'll check it out.
     
  18. CrimsonEminence

    CrimsonEminence Custom Title Staff Member AMS2 Club Member

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    Oh, so your wheel firmware actually already features negative drift settings? If so, -5 Dri is the most applied base motor damper.
     
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  19. 2ndLastJedi

    2ndLastJedi Free speech matters AMS2 Club Member

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    Oops it isn't -3 , just 3.
     
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  20. Dean Ogurek

    Dean Ogurek "Love the Simulation You're Dreaming In." AMS2 Club Member

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    IIRC, rF2 uses the Damper method as default but, you can also experiment with the Damper / Spring settings in the Fanatec software to see if it has any affect beyond what the game-ffb Damping offers.

    For AMS2 in theory, the in-game damping should do the trick for most wheels. I'm just more picky than most. :p:D
     

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