Automobilista 2 Force Feedback - Overview & Recommendations

You should be good. If you don't like any additional strength/effects from curbs, road bumps, etc., no need to adjust FX. If you find the forces at low speeds versus aero-influenced high-speed corners balanced, you don't need more LFB. LFB will fill in some feel when the forces are supposed to be light, so that you don't have too much force when the forces are supposed to be high (which is what happens if you just crank up the Gain to make the lower forces appropriate).

 

its been explored and discussed on the web, and 75 is the most linear curve.

 

Thanks for the reply. I have tested many times with both LFB and FX at 10, 20, 50, 75 and FB feels best for me at 0. The only thing I really notice with LFB / FX higher than 0 is amplifying certain forces and it feels un-balanced. I will stick with Gain 65 and everything else 0.

 

Hi thats interesting. What wheel is your wheel?

In the past whenever I put lfb at 0 it has felt underbaked or turned things off/different method. Certainly not lacking, but definitely better with 50 (or at the time I changed those things several months back I put it down to 5, 30, 60 and 0, always needed at least a little like 3 or 4 and anyone back then would have told you that that was necessary). Or at least things these days seem balanced around 50. I'd say you're just used to it; have you tried changing recently because its all been reworked in the past few months.

I am positive for my experience of things that 50, 50, 50 is about as good as I can get on a tx wheel.

The center and the turn to the sides, that motion is at its most balanced and /wheel/rubber turning direction feel, if you will, and only around then like you say at around 68-69 to me. Usually 68. If its at 72, for example, the turning is simply too strong for the way the center feels. edit: but recent patch and use of default has caused me to see the mid 60's are not the sweet spot anymore and for me its 75 for multiple factors. If you have the mind to, try 75 with dampening at 50 and 50 50 should your wheel be the equivalent of a tx/300/500...what you do [thats the baseline] is you tune down cars on a per car basis in the setup of the car... and where its simply too strong and at most thats down to 75-80 iirc approx, most of the time, but often I drive cars on 100. The way I discover if thats too strong is if I can't turn it properly in high speed corners or it tires me out. Its my guess with your '65?' that you could tune per-car gain upwards to 80-100/120 even and still be in the sweet spot for the wheel on telemetry and feel. It would be enhanced

So I am positive they are not messing with the curves or the linearity. (Linearity is essentially what I was explaining haphazardly in the last post I made; its like a DAC for your audio and an amplifier or signal sensitivity; which is why 75 and 75 seems very dialed in; by people I assume who took measurements)

Thus I want to point to that concept and apply it to what I am on about with 50,50,50 - that there seem to be forces on either side of that mark, and the dynamic range of it (provided the dampening is at 50, which allows for this to happen in the first place probably) is simply a better dynamic range.

Its probably not the most amazing feel at 50,50,50 ever on every single thing ever - but its all held in place or standard deviation (track undulation, surface, etc when that happens to be normalised), and so thats why I stick with it. Its more than acceptable, its not "min-maxing", but it certainly crosses the threshold of very good and welcomed/acceptable/no problems for ffb. Whats more - with those settings, at least for me (and you may not be used to them so I could understand anyone has a preference anyway)... the driving I do with that is simply better because its (again, sorry) linear, and whatever happens its predictable and there's no vibrations in the way and there's no lack of 'feedback' as to what just happened or what I should do.

But its also possible you are much better than me at the game thus you may not even need all that or would rather an input device that you do not have to work against in order to take the bend. Like all the controller people which I do not understand. It de-legitmizes why I would want to play the game. I may as well play a more casual racing game. But I see why those people would play. That can be fun in a way.

I cant even remember they are both good, which profile I left it on, custom or default

edit: interestingly its default. Apologies. With a group c I use 75 gain. I probably will not change that - its probably what I put above, and also the center and turn is just nice.

 

CSL Elite 1.1

 

yeh, you're probably dreaming about putting any setting on zero and it being better.
[note I have since come to regret this statement as we shall see; I could technically ask you all now to skip this post lol]

I later said I would try it both ways and never looked back from 75, 0,0,0 - most titles are like this now as I suspect the FFB got way more advanced these past 2 years.

There is no right or wrong I suppose, as 75, 50,50, 50 is not exactly bad, but for a belt wheel I think what I experienced was the belt getting in the way of itself and the signal. It does just as good without that stuff which is meant for low end wheels I bet.

Custom does need 50 LFB as it governs the turns.

 

I tried 75 in cp last night and you're definitely right. Much more linear and detailed. FFB feels a bit weak at first but then you start to notice all the details. Thanks for the info!

 

good morning to all of you, who helps me to correctly configure my SIMUCUBE 1 steering wheel with this magnificent simulator ?, I need the optimal configuration both in game, and on the external profile of SIMUCUBE 1, thanks

 

dd1 driver 402 flat1 wheel or mclaren gt3 v1
sen auto
ff 35 (with lower ff on wheel and high gain in game i can feel all ffb forces) IMO
lin on (in game 900º)
ndp 25
nfr off
nin off
int 6
fei 100
for 100
spr 100
dpr off
bli off (heusinkvreld sprint)
sho 100
in game
gain 60
lfb 15
fx 30
damping 30
i am happy with this (formula classic) but ........
some suggestions is nice
thanks

 

I tried it and do not mind it at all! (75 and 0 0 0; I still agree with my replay regarding linearity, iun that the default must be far more tuned these days to allow this level of goodness no matter which way)

Hm so now I have 2 which are good. I guess again cannot set and forget haha and so I will go back and forwards.

hello one and all. lol. Look I am not trying to be a ratbag or nothing but its becomes clear that I like 75 and 0, 0, 0 quite a bit. lol no joke.

Thus this post is a lot shorter since there's 2 I like now

1. the ffb is really good these days in more ways that just output/feel

2. I set it to all 0, with 75 gain and 75 in cpanel.

3.. It felt surprisingly good with 75, 50, 50, 50... AND 75, 0, 0, 0.

It actually felt more rubber like with the 0's which for turning clarity is probably preferable on a tx base and this wheel a gt wheel. I am going to go back and forth between settings in case its wheel-warmth in belts or some other thing over time, but I do not think so. Both are good. One is just more detailed and on a tx or csl maybe thats not such a big deal. Its just perhaps a little lighter than I would like but I am talking 10% if that, and upping gain may introduce clipping.

So its a good result. For many people the technical better is 50 50 50 no doubt, but its not like 0 0 0 is ruining anything. Its neat, tidy, linear still, so maybe something is missing only time will tell but I like it.

edit tried making LFB 0 and FX 50 or 30, which I have done at 50. Not too bad.

edit 2 tried making lfb back at 50 then 20 then 10, then 30, and then all of the at 20 and 10 and 50, and well..

in the name of science I went full circle

And as I stated I am probably now going to stay on 75, 0, 0, 0. So kudos to that fellow...for a belt I am going to assume that it allows the center to stay strong and stoic, and you still get all the bumps etc but without the belt getting in its own way I am supposing.


^ --> I e. I say it in long-form in case a question arises in the communication - but while its lighter at the center which one may expect from a steering rack actually, the wheel/belt loads up much better and stays loaded unfettered.

^> And then without being unfair its only a 20% betterment but definitely significant.

>> and as such for custom, I would now do lfb at 50 still because they work differently and it relates to turning force, but I would put fx at 0, and depending on the smoothness you want to feel in custom then 50 dampening.

^>> but all these settings I would go no higher as its at some kind of limit with those.

= thus to be clear, its not that its a bad design for 300/500/tx/ps-pc etc, I think the wheels are just at a limit of clarity and force - because we all know what they really need is more torque but if you try to go too far it muddys the waters; thus less is more I think.

 

who helps me ?, nobody has the Simucube 1 steering wheel?

 

Surely you may wish to try the same kind of settings? It can't be overly different. You may just want to watch the telemetry in-game (press right on the wheel then down on the screen you want).

When watching telemetry graphs for ffb white horizontal is actual force right now, red bar vertical is clipping, then first 4 bars are strength when ffb force you input into wheel (turn it etc) is 10-30, then 30-70? iirc, then 70-100... thats why if you see red for any reason things may be too strong. Unless you can live with a flat spot in the signal - almost no one wants to though.

If you see the graph itself go to the top of the square at any point you might have settings which are overall too strong - and in the case of most settings near 0, its certainly the gain of the wheel. You want the graph of course to be near the top but not so much that your most extreme driving/forces no longer have room to play with/provide their detail. If the line is super fuzzy maybe fx or ffb is up too high (but we may want them near or at 0 anyway).. so settle on something you can live with.

It could be the signal is most clear with [max] gain [you can possibly get without clipping/doing a final pass with that setting at the end] AND >> with settings at 0 otherwise (apart from menu spring->your choice)

And then to go from there you would increase to 50 all those settings instead of 0 and see if the additional signal is ruining the driving experience of turning and loading the wheel, and if it does you may wish to try one setting at a time at 10, or accept not at all.

Having it at 0 does not mean certain forces do not exist - just that they are not being fattened or otherwise from the game engine and ffb programming. Its a very preferential thing, but maybe whichever gives you the best lap times or enjoyment.

Gain is probably the most important setting.

I cannot go over external control panel settings here as I do not know of them. But maybe they need to be at default.

__

edit also I am driving right now on Imola 1988 (a most underrated track or never mentioned) and the ginetta g58 (its in the p1). I use a per car gain for this car at 95.

And also the v10 gen 2 (is the one without 2 vehicles in it, just 1)

And yes I am from the camp that believes the 80s and 90s tracks may be a tad better...modern imola seems to be fast as hell then slightly slower then fast fast slow, fast fast fast.

It tests better at 1988 imola maybe anyway. wider variety of cars and forces

for various times of day sun flares exterior and interior (where you see the camera lens show the rainbow streak as if through glass) well I turn them off, because lets face it, a visor gives something like that now and then but its an aberration (as to the atmosphere generally you would not see them unless you watch on tv), so I turn them off. They are pretty but on balance that is.

And I turn off race-start lights. This should make racing that track the bomb.
__

SO I am thinking Reiza have outdone themselves on this update. I do not want to use custom and literally everything in the game is now feasible (car or track and/or car/track combination) or at least for the few that may not be all-that, more feasible than ever.

 

I am going to put in a long session tonight with your suggestion of 75 FFB on wheel and 75 Gain in game.
For now, I have settled on 65, 0 , 15. I ended up moving FX from 0 to 15 because on certain tracks and cars, I seem to lose minor curb and tire scrub with FX at 0. Moving it to 15 I get those finer details back without washing out other feedback. I am happy with LFB at 0, FX at 15. My next session will be playing with the wheel FFB down to 75 and increasing in game Gain to compensate. I will report back later tonight.

 

What is your DPR (damper) setting? I recently changed my wheel DPR from 100 to OFF and increased in game Damper from 0 to 35 and I really like it.

 

I use a SimuCube1 but, have not spent much time dialing in the FFB of late being that the game ffb has been undergoing frequent changes.

My approach to FFB tuning has long been based on 100% avoiding signal clipping. So I will run the SC1 voltage fairly high (60-80%) and the in-game FFB gain in the 35% range.

Damping can be compared (Wheel Damping vs. AMS2 Damping) but, using the game ffb-damping is recommended. SC1 Direct Input settings can be left at default in my experience.

SimuCube1 System Settings (Current)

• Voltage: 80%
• Steering Range: 900 degrees
• Force Reconstruction Filter: 5 or 6 (Six is smoother but, less defined scrub FX)
• TBW: Unlimited
• Peaking & Notch Filer: Disabled
• Damping: 0 (Use AMS2 Damping for improved per-car dynamics)
• Friction: 5% (5-7% is a good baseline setup imo)
• Inertia: 0
• Static Force reduction: 0

AMS2 FFB Settings

• Gain: 35% (Approx.)
• LFB: 5-20% (Depending on SAT / Bump response preference)
• FX: 25-55% (depending on Default / Custom Profile)
  
• Damping: 25-50% (depending on Default / Custom Profile) Above 50% does slow down over-steer response too much for my liking.

As a general rule, I use SC1 Friction to add some overall resistance to the steering (emulates natural mechanical friction). Damping (SC1 or Game-ffb) controls the overall steering response speed and reduces oscillation (25% may be the minimum to avoid oscillation). SC1 Recon-Filter level provides more or less smoothing; too little results in grainy ffb / too much removes fine detail such as tire-scrub effects and road texture.

I did test and revise my settings above based on the current Default FFB. I really like the default ffb as it is right now. I get a good sense of each cars steering characteristics through the ffb. The braking effects work really well, and I'm able to find a nice sweet spot where the details can be felt but, not grainy or harsh.

 

I would like to share my setup with you, unfortunately, however, the problem I am accusing is ruining the gaming experience, I have a simcube2 pro and suddenly the steering wheel pulls to the right without being able to do anything to reset it, I have not found solutions, I write here if any of you had the same problem and solved it somehow, thanks

 

I will try this. Its not unlike last year when a little bit of fx was pretty great. I am going to guess certain cars/tracks require it maybe.

I think its a game engine bug thats existed for some time. Patch may have done something for it, by flushing the values which were causing it or some such do not fully know - but apparently you are meant to restart the computer or at least the game.

In your case it may be best to delete your automobilista 2 my documents folder as a last resort. But maybe re calibrate first.

 

thanks for everything but you forgot to put the parameters in: "DirectImput Effects", you can indicate them to me, thanks

 

I agree with Raceracerace, delete & reset your config folders when having such issues. It takes a few minutes but, could very well solve the issue.