Automobilista 2 Force Feedback - Overview & Recommendations

For T300 I can say with confidence for best performance (longevity idk) CP setting needs to be on 100.

 

Well I have mine at 50lfb , 50 fx , 50dampening,

CPanel is 75, and gain in game is now 75.

I can promise you, this is on default - its never been better acoss the board. I believe for the group C's and ginetta p1, for example, and probably group 1, the ffb is top shelf.

Its consistent at those settings and each one is a kind of high-water mark that blends in well. From center to turn its not out of place, and game and panel for me are at 75 as stated.

Once you dial in the porsche group c for Spa, preload up to 110 iirc, down one notch on front spring and swaybar one notch down, then rebound and slow bump down 1, to my driving maybe its not the fastest way round a track - its in a world of its own then.

I know I said elsewhere I like race room etc, you can have 2 top shelves the same height.

Message coming

I don't want to dash your confidence but its good to be skeptical sometimes. I wanted 100 to be better. And if you're not up for a read, then lets just say that 75 is the new '100' in basically every way except outright torque - which is a red herring anyway, as the wheel was not adversely impacted in performance going to 75, just recalibrated around it.

Edit: while I have heard that the 300 did not suffer as hard as the 500 with over heating, and it should be no bother - there is a reason (whether thats self belief) from thrustmaster why they leave it at 75 is my best guess. I have a tx and they are essentially providing the exact same output and characteristics and the driver they use is essentially the same. Functionally - there is no difference beyond parts and maintenance and probably the power supply.

I think they made 75 the new 100 as well. In a way, I think the driver and separately the firmware re-calibrated everything. You will get the extra strength but you will not get the extra finer detail - that or I am plain wrong, but my testing in the past few days could not convince me to move to 100.

Why but do they do that? Litigation probably. It just looks so much better being able to say "hey we make sure its down on 75 as a precaution" They won't like negligence and they did go to some effort anyway...... and you don't get access to the source code. So you won't chase them down.

I want to explain something I did earlier because I had it at 100 for 2 days, and it did nothing for me. I think its getting compressed anyway above 75.

I mean, YES I agree its absolutely better at 100 in the Cpanel in terms of strength at the wheel; the thing is, the detail is not any better. And maybe I am not used to it or some such but I just put it back to 75 and I can swear that its better overall in terms of balance and turning. I leave dampening on 50 anyway. The engine revs are up at 50 as well, and its wonderfully balanced as a profile. If you can possibly get used to 75 gain in game and in the CPanel for a tx/300/500 I suggest do it.

Like I said I think the finer detail, which lets face it a belt is going to have a hard(er) time with anyway, its all combined in the same mechanism/activating mechanism (a belts limitations, even a dual belt)... um... yes, it will render it in such a way that 75 is probably the limit.

For example I did not notice anything other than less force, and that extra force was not needed anyway to get the good inputs and the sensation of steering, etc.

And also I just want to state - try your other sims and you will see 75 on them is probably better too. For this belt at 100 I think its too out of strength-sync with the other components. Meaning I think 75 is the new 100. Due to not getting any extra fine detail and the extra strength being of detriment to smooth turning in general. The way a dual belt drive works at the edges of the turning range is not as good as direct drive and probably the better CSL's or that one thats better from Fanatec. So I think actually its a detriment, as stated, for all these reasons.

But if you are happy with it as is, and you don't want to do the science experiment thats ok. The non scientific literature will tell you it 'does not clip'. It does. And that the added strength is all there is to it - well it gets in the way as its out of sync with the other factors. I do not think the driver appreciates 100 anymore. And its not a matter of lowering it.

? Without harping on about it - another example. Center wheel strength and turn strength. Its far more in-line with one another when it comes to transitions.

Or succincly I think 100 is a red herring or placebo in certain regards, you do get extra strength but its not complimentary in any way to the driving experience because you simply can only extract so much out of the wheel, and I think 75 was recalibrated anyway to give the best of both worlds. At least you must take it with a grain of salt, if you believe the TX is the more advanced but same level tech, and that the 300 somehow benefits via the driver but the TX does not despite them being functionally the same.

Its hard to fathom I know - I am confusing. Or you can take it to mean there is literally no difference beyond a bit more torque which one can do without - the graphs read roughly the same, and the output of the wheel is basically the same, the signal is still roughly the same (the sine wave is no more thick or thin or detailed, its literally just the torque at the wheelbase thats stronger)...thus its more a waste than benefit in terms of driving experience.

To explain one final time. If you put gain - and its just gain, my man on a sine wave, up and make it stronger, its basically the same as 100 when you put it on lighter; like amplification the signal is the same, those vibrations do not get more detailed, they just get 'thicker'; so I would say the benefits are marginal as the signal is not helping you do much extra with the driving. There may be absolutely marginal betterment from no compression of signal, etc,if its even doing that in many of these titles but good luck finding it - as it can get more muddy or any number of things, you can run into clipping more easily - and besides that the default etc is made with 75 and other factors in mind.
? So how would that work - well if you have it on 100 and you need to turn it down any, then there is still no gain there, and its mainly torque strength. The unit is capable of outputting that, but thats just like saying you will run an engine hard all day.

But I will reiterate it again so you know I am not pulling your leg - if you like it like that, I won't stand in the way of it, but from my own testing from an objective standpoint, from someone who tried both but could not move, it was unfeasible to hope for 100 strength when it did nothing besides make the belts tighter. Instead of fine-tuning it up, I fine tuned it down - and instead of getting more detail, it barely did a thing for the driving. If anything it was a hinderance.

How do you get more useful vibrations when the belts are pulling tighter anyway? Its almost cancelling it out it seems but I can't substantiate that. Only that it was not the worthwhile improvement I wanted - nor did I or do I feel 75 is lacking. [I believe and think I understand/uncovered that 75 is basically its highest usable strength/fidelity overall; in certain circumstances 100 may be better but only in one regard, which you can tune-up toward anyway to within 10% I suppose of that strength...less is often more though with FFB; profiles have come a long way and even on DD people will turn them down]

 

You should be good. If you don't like any additional strength/effects from curbs, road bumps, etc., no need to adjust FX. If you find the forces at low speeds versus aero-influenced high-speed corners balanced, you don't need more LFB. LFB will fill in some feel when the forces are supposed to be light, so that you don't have too much force when the forces are supposed to be high (which is what happens if you just crank up the Gain to make the lower forces appropriate).

 

its been explored and discussed on the web, and 75 is the most linear curve.

 

Thanks for the reply. I have tested many times with both LFB and FX at 10, 20, 50, 75 and FB feels best for me at 0. The only thing I really notice with LFB / FX higher than 0 is amplifying certain forces and it feels un-balanced. I will stick with Gain 65 and everything else 0.

 

Hi thats interesting. What wheel is your wheel?

In the past whenever I put lfb at 0 it has felt underbaked or turned things off/different method. Certainly not lacking, but definitely better with 50 (or at the time I changed those things several months back I put it down to 5, 30, 60 and 0, always needed at least a little like 3 or 4 and anyone back then would have told you that that was necessary). Or at least things these days seem balanced around 50. I'd say you're just used to it; have you tried changing recently because its all been reworked in the past few months.

I am positive for my experience of things that 50, 50, 50 is about as good as I can get on a tx wheel.

The center and the turn to the sides, that motion is at its most balanced and /wheel/rubber turning direction feel, if you will, and only around then like you say at around 68-69 to me. Usually 68. If its at 72, for example, the turning is simply too strong for the way the center feels. edit: but recent patch and use of default has caused me to see the mid 60's are not the sweet spot anymore and for me its 75 for multiple factors. If you have the mind to, try 75 with dampening at 50 and 50 50 should your wheel be the equivalent of a tx/300/500...what you do [thats the baseline] is you tune down cars on a per car basis in the setup of the car... and where its simply too strong and at most thats down to 75-80 iirc approx, most of the time, but often I drive cars on 100. The way I discover if thats too strong is if I can't turn it properly in high speed corners or it tires me out. Its my guess with your '65?' that you could tune per-car gain upwards to 80-100/120 even and still be in the sweet spot for the wheel on telemetry and feel. It would be enhanced

So I am positive they are not messing with the curves or the linearity. (Linearity is essentially what I was explaining haphazardly in the last post I made; its like a DAC for your audio and an amplifier or signal sensitivity; which is why 75 and 75 seems very dialed in; by people I assume who took measurements)

Thus I want to point to that concept and apply it to what I am on about with 50,50,50 - that there seem to be forces on either side of that mark, and the dynamic range of it (provided the dampening is at 50, which allows for this to happen in the first place probably) is simply a better dynamic range.

Its probably not the most amazing feel at 50,50,50 ever on every single thing ever - but its all held in place or standard deviation (track undulation, surface, etc when that happens to be normalised), and so thats why I stick with it. Its more than acceptable, its not "min-maxing", but it certainly crosses the threshold of very good and welcomed/acceptable/no problems for ffb. Whats more - with those settings, at least for me (and you may not be used to them so I could understand anyone has a preference anyway)... the driving I do with that is simply better because its (again, sorry) linear, and whatever happens its predictable and there's no vibrations in the way and there's no lack of 'feedback' as to what just happened or what I should do.

But its also possible you are much better than me at the game thus you may not even need all that or would rather an input device that you do not have to work against in order to take the bend. Like all the controller people which I do not understand. It de-legitmizes why I would want to play the game. I may as well play a more casual racing game. But I see why those people would play. That can be fun in a way.

I cant even remember they are both good, which profile I left it on, custom or default

edit: interestingly its default. Apologies. With a group c I use 75 gain. I probably will not change that - its probably what I put above, and also the center and turn is just nice.

 

CSL Elite 1.1

 

yeh, you're probably dreaming about putting any setting on zero and it being better.
[note I have since come to regret this statement as we shall see; I could technically ask you all now to skip this post lol]

I later said I would try it both ways and never looked back from 75, 0,0,0 - most titles are like this now as I suspect the FFB got way more advanced these past 2 years.

There is no right or wrong I suppose, as 75, 50,50, 50 is not exactly bad, but for a belt wheel I think what I experienced was the belt getting in the way of itself and the signal. It does just as good without that stuff which is meant for low end wheels I bet.

Custom does need 50 LFB as it governs the turns.

 

I tried 75 in cp last night and you're definitely right. Much more linear and detailed. FFB feels a bit weak at first but then you start to notice all the details. Thanks for the info!

 

good morning to all of you, who helps me to correctly configure my SIMUCUBE 1 steering wheel with this magnificent simulator ?, I need the optimal configuration both in game, and on the external profile of SIMUCUBE 1, thanks

 

dd1 driver 402 flat1 wheel or mclaren gt3 v1
sen auto
ff 35 (with lower ff on wheel and high gain in game i can feel all ffb forces) IMO
lin on (in game 900º)
ndp 25
nfr off
nin off
int 6
fei 100
for 100
spr 100
dpr off
bli off (heusinkvreld sprint)
sho 100
in game
gain 60
lfb 15
fx 30
damping 30
i am happy with this (formula classic) but ........
some suggestions is nice
thanks

 

I tried it and do not mind it at all! (75 and 0 0 0; I still agree with my replay regarding linearity, iun that the default must be far more tuned these days to allow this level of goodness no matter which way)

Hm so now I have 2 which are good. I guess again cannot set and forget haha and so I will go back and forwards.

hello one and all. lol. Look I am not trying to be a ratbag or nothing but its becomes clear that I like 75 and 0, 0, 0 quite a bit. lol no joke.

Thus this post is a lot shorter since there's 2 I like now

1. the ffb is really good these days in more ways that just output/feel

2. I set it to all 0, with 75 gain and 75 in cpanel.

3.. It felt surprisingly good with 75, 50, 50, 50... AND 75, 0, 0, 0.

It actually felt more rubber like with the 0's which for turning clarity is probably preferable on a tx base and this wheel a gt wheel. I am going to go back and forth between settings in case its wheel-warmth in belts or some other thing over time, but I do not think so. Both are good. One is just more detailed and on a tx or csl maybe thats not such a big deal. Its just perhaps a little lighter than I would like but I am talking 10% if that, and upping gain may introduce clipping.

So its a good result. For many people the technical better is 50 50 50 no doubt, but its not like 0 0 0 is ruining anything. Its neat, tidy, linear still, so maybe something is missing only time will tell but I like it.

edit tried making LFB 0 and FX 50 or 30, which I have done at 50. Not too bad.

edit 2 tried making lfb back at 50 then 20 then 10, then 30, and then all of the at 20 and 10 and 50, and well..

in the name of science I went full circle

And as I stated I am probably now going to stay on 75, 0, 0, 0. So kudos to that fellow...for a belt I am going to assume that it allows the center to stay strong and stoic, and you still get all the bumps etc but without the belt getting in its own way I am supposing.


^ --> I e. I say it in long-form in case a question arises in the communication - but while its lighter at the center which one may expect from a steering rack actually, the wheel/belt loads up much better and stays loaded unfettered.

^> And then without being unfair its only a 20% betterment but definitely significant.

>> and as such for custom, I would now do lfb at 50 still because they work differently and it relates to turning force, but I would put fx at 0, and depending on the smoothness you want to feel in custom then 50 dampening.

^>> but all these settings I would go no higher as its at some kind of limit with those.

= thus to be clear, its not that its a bad design for 300/500/tx/ps-pc etc, I think the wheels are just at a limit of clarity and force - because we all know what they really need is more torque but if you try to go too far it muddys the waters; thus less is more I think.

 

who helps me ?, nobody has the Simucube 1 steering wheel?

 

Surely you may wish to try the same kind of settings? It can't be overly different. You may just want to watch the telemetry in-game (press right on the wheel then down on the screen you want).

When watching telemetry graphs for ffb white horizontal is actual force right now, red bar vertical is clipping, then first 4 bars are strength when ffb force you input into wheel (turn it etc) is 10-30, then 30-70? iirc, then 70-100... thats why if you see red for any reason things may be too strong. Unless you can live with a flat spot in the signal - almost no one wants to though.

If you see the graph itself go to the top of the square at any point you might have settings which are overall too strong - and in the case of most settings near 0, its certainly the gain of the wheel. You want the graph of course to be near the top but not so much that your most extreme driving/forces no longer have room to play with/provide their detail. If the line is super fuzzy maybe fx or ffb is up too high (but we may want them near or at 0 anyway).. so settle on something you can live with.

It could be the signal is most clear with [max] gain [you can possibly get without clipping/doing a final pass with that setting at the end] AND >> with settings at 0 otherwise (apart from menu spring->your choice)

And then to go from there you would increase to 50 all those settings instead of 0 and see if the additional signal is ruining the driving experience of turning and loading the wheel, and if it does you may wish to try one setting at a time at 10, or accept not at all.

Having it at 0 does not mean certain forces do not exist - just that they are not being fattened or otherwise from the game engine and ffb programming. Its a very preferential thing, but maybe whichever gives you the best lap times or enjoyment.

Gain is probably the most important setting.

I cannot go over external control panel settings here as I do not know of them. But maybe they need to be at default.

__

edit also I am driving right now on Imola 1988 (a most underrated track or never mentioned) and the ginetta g58 (its in the p1). I use a per car gain for this car at 95.

And also the v10 gen 2 (is the one without 2 vehicles in it, just 1)

And yes I am from the camp that believes the 80s and 90s tracks may be a tad better...modern imola seems to be fast as hell then slightly slower then fast fast slow, fast fast fast.

It tests better at 1988 imola maybe anyway. wider variety of cars and forces

for various times of day sun flares exterior and interior (where you see the camera lens show the rainbow streak as if through glass) well I turn them off, because lets face it, a visor gives something like that now and then but its an aberration (as to the atmosphere generally you would not see them unless you watch on tv), so I turn them off. They are pretty but on balance that is.

And I turn off race-start lights. This should make racing that track the bomb.
__

SO I am thinking Reiza have outdone themselves on this update. I do not want to use custom and literally everything in the game is now feasible (car or track and/or car/track combination) or at least for the few that may not be all-that, more feasible than ever.

 

I am going to put in a long session tonight with your suggestion of 75 FFB on wheel and 75 Gain in game.
For now, I have settled on 65, 0 , 15. I ended up moving FX from 0 to 15 because on certain tracks and cars, I seem to lose minor curb and tire scrub with FX at 0. Moving it to 15 I get those finer details back without washing out other feedback. I am happy with LFB at 0, FX at 15. My next session will be playing with the wheel FFB down to 75 and increasing in game Gain to compensate. I will report back later tonight.

 

What is your DPR (damper) setting? I recently changed my wheel DPR from 100 to OFF and increased in game Damper from 0 to 35 and I really like it.

 

I use a SimuCube1 but, have not spent much time dialing in the FFB of late being that the game ffb has been undergoing frequent changes.

My approach to FFB tuning has long been based on 100% avoiding signal clipping. So I will run the SC1 voltage fairly high (60-80%) and the in-game FFB gain in the 35% range.

Damping can be compared (Wheel Damping vs. AMS2 Damping) but, using the game ffb-damping is recommended. SC1 Direct Input settings can be left at default in my experience.

SimuCube1 System Settings (Current)

• Voltage: 80%
• Steering Range: 900 degrees
• Force Reconstruction Filter: 5 or 6 (Six is smoother but, less defined scrub FX)
• TBW: Unlimited
• Peaking & Notch Filer: Disabled
• Damping: 0 (Use AMS2 Damping for improved per-car dynamics)
• Friction: 5% (5-7% is a good baseline setup imo)
• Inertia: 0
• Static Force reduction: 0

AMS2 FFB Settings

• Gain: 35% (Approx.)
• LFB: 5-20% (Depending on SAT / Bump response preference)
• FX: 25-55% (depending on Default / Custom Profile)
  
• Damping: 25-50% (depending on Default / Custom Profile) Above 50% does slow down over-steer response too much for my liking.

As a general rule, I use SC1 Friction to add some overall resistance to the steering (emulates natural mechanical friction). Damping (SC1 or Game-ffb) controls the overall steering response speed and reduces oscillation (25% may be the minimum to avoid oscillation). SC1 Recon-Filter level provides more or less smoothing; too little results in grainy ffb / too much removes fine detail such as tire-scrub effects and road texture.

I did test and revise my settings above based on the current Default FFB. I really like the default ffb as it is right now. I get a good sense of each cars steering characteristics through the ffb. The braking effects work really well, and I'm able to find a nice sweet spot where the details can be felt but, not grainy or harsh.

 

I would like to share my setup with you, unfortunately, however, the problem I am accusing is ruining the gaming experience, I have a simcube2 pro and suddenly the steering wheel pulls to the right without being able to do anything to reset it, I have not found solutions, I write here if any of you had the same problem and solved it somehow, thanks

 

I will try this. Its not unlike last year when a little bit of fx was pretty great. I am going to guess certain cars/tracks require it maybe.

I think its a game engine bug thats existed for some time. Patch may have done something for it, by flushing the values which were causing it or some such do not fully know - but apparently you are meant to restart the computer or at least the game.

In your case it may be best to delete your automobilista 2 my documents folder as a last resort. But maybe re calibrate first.