Automobilista 2 Custom Force Feedback - Overview & Recommendations

He is probably and it's a good idea quoting for the blockers to see.

They missed the other guitar stuff but after a year of work the ffb is pretty good, keep the thread on topic.

But a congratulations are in order to the workers, so celebrate with a hot blonde playing guitar. If ffb is modulation then so this is fitting. Take ones mind off our personality maybe, and no misdirection, just clarity, and appreciate the modulation, ya know, for what it is.

 

It was a gif of Donald Trump dancing but didn’t seem to embed properly. Didn’t bother trying to fix it as honestly your words speak for themselves

 

What are your observations so far?

I noticed my FFB values in telemetry HUD being off from the in-settings values and skipped through the forums to find your posts as I remembered someone somewhere mentioning similiar observations recently.

The placebo might be strong with me, but after really struggling to share the recent sensation around AMS2, I totally got it when changing the values so the telemetry/HUD values to match my desired values - it's a blast.

 

Karsten's file is not wrong or incorrect, even the two lines of code (mentioned by me) do their job and among other things I don't know if the bad guys from Karsten & Co have any changes to implement in the future related to the use of this incremental technique of GAIN and DP through the LFB ... I'm very curious to see future developments!!!

To date, I can only say what is certain, namely that:

GAIN is = to (gain (+ gain (* lfb_slider (- 1 gain))))
DP is = to (damping_slider (+ damping_slider (* lfb_slider (- 1 damping_slider))))
LFB is = to lfb_slider
FX is = to FX

As you can understand by seeing above, the LFB value is also contained in the GAIN and in the DP, this creates a redundancy that duplicates the calculation before the output (in the case of the GAIN and the DP) and therefore a difference is created between the input values and the output values ... this difference is obviously great when the LFB is high (LowEnd owners) and it is small when the LFB is small (DD owners).
So for example initially the file processes the input values (for example 80-60-60-60) but before the output, applying the two lines of code, the file again increments the GAIN and DP values and throws out for example 96-60-60-90.
Only if LFB = 0 then GAIN=GAIN and DP=DP and input and output are the same!!!
In the file there are practically two GAINs (80 and 96) and two DPs (60 and 90), one for input and one for output, but the output spits out only the last augmented ...

This also explains the flickering of the HUD which always calculates two values but obviously operates on the latter.

If you disable the two lines of code but manually increase the GAIN and the DP as in the example to 96-60-60-90 (as if the lines of code were activated) you get the same configuration and the same result with no difference between input and output and without flickering.

I am very curious to see what the Karsten & Co have in mind!!!

 

This also applies to 4.4 file .
can comfortably run gain and power steering ( damp) at 100 each at default 100 per car gain .
actually feels very natural on Gt cars.
I would actually suggest this as a great starting point for new users to take some of the guessing work out.

 

Yes all files after 4.3 … 4.4, 4.5 Exp 1,2,3 …

 

Hey Guys, im also a owner of a CSW ClubSport 2.5 Wheel base and found a bit lacking on detail using the 4.4, anyone using the 4.5 with this Wheel base ? And what settings ?
Thanks

 

Bandquit, my words do speak for themselves. Oh - so the hot blonde was not hot enough for you? You didn't go and chill out, with er, modulation? Right... you probably need to chill out.

have you ever ridden a motorbike for 5 hours straight and the vibrations on the v-twin are making your whole body numb, first through your wrist, then your lower arm, then your crutch, then your legs - well the 'bumps' some guys are chasing on here, is over rated. The 4.5 exp 1 file was really good. Otherwise simply I think if people want more detail, they need a better wheel, which they are doing. Some guys may say oh well go for the inline 4, yeah guess what some of those are vibration machines as well.

If you want speed you can have it - from something that sounds like a lawnmower, you can get up there in 3 seconds flat. Go try it. Then tell me about bumps.

The only thing I am looking at with these wonderful (the mainstream ones) files is how they do in COMPUTER GAMES.

great work fellas.



People don't have any reference points of proper note and the kiwi guy is not even good at math. If it were up to the mad kiwi guy and people like yourself we'd be left with a file that was too bumpy and did fk all of next to nothing. I had to turn up and point out, no the bumps are not cool and aim for something like raceroom and others. I said aim for a game that was between raceroom and Rf2 and go from there - THIS WAS DONE.

Oh! Then when I point out the business case merits of this very thing, it happens to be in line with the developers desire to 1 make a quality game, 2 extract a couple hundred dollars from your wallet with a quality title so they can earn a salary for a few years, build a bigger studio, get a brand-name, pay back ian bell probably, AND make a profit. If you sell 50,000 at 50 dollars, you have 2.5 million, so I am not talking chump change - you think I am going to 'play round' with that crap??? For heavens sake - they're spending half of that as we speak, got to pay staff and overheads, market etc, any business can spend up to 50% or more on marketing, and 40% on staff or more, so the game has to get to a point within a timeframe.

But no - according to you - this whole thing is about your FFB preference, your desire to see people like me 'put down', and whatever else.

The truth is the file in the 4's did not start getting good/next level until 4.5 and they are even better now the game is in the place it is in.

Look - my suggestions (or my preference in racing games) is actually 3 times as popular as the game was 12 months ago after a non-increase in all that time. I am talking about the developers plans were in line with what my suggestions were - I am not claiming "i made this game" no... what I was saying was at odds with what people were saying. The truth is you don't know what product you want until Renato puts it in front of you.....

Its as simple as that. I am a high level thinker. No, I am not the donald. Guys a low level thinker who can do high level things. Yuh - its not a put-down. I don't see the need to try to pull others down just to make myself feel better!

You have helped make a good file, god - even the crazy kiwi guy (kuku=crazy/mad=crazy its no coincidence its a good name though), even he, and Karsten etc of course, but the truth is about the file, most people don't run the correct settings. For lower wheels lfb 80 is the spot. If people were paying attention to stakanov they would have input those numbers. We all know why you don't want to pay attention to me, you think the message is bad from me or wrong, etc. I couldn't care. The high-level things I seek in quality and sellable titles is what I am most concerned about. If the game wasn't good and this file was naff - I would not be here p!ssing in people's pockets.

So given I am a big-things type guy, I am not going to be sweating the small stuff. If the file stopped production today, anyone would label it a win, just saying. I was even saying this is an internal engine thing ages ago with the altered values. Yuh - digital goods/digital in general, and I grew up in a totally analog world, man... I got gud with digital pretty quick. My car is also drive by wire and totally digital. I came to grips with this stuff a long time ago. There's not much you could enlighten me with but if you cared to look, you would see I am one step ahead at all times.

Point is keep the thread about the file, not your own 'conquering' over how you, like the mad dog up there, seem to be taking ownership of the file. He could potentially wreck it. Because he is confused and he will confuse everyone else as they don't know what they want, until they want it.

___

Yes use 4.5 without a doubt. Even with your existing settings you will notice an improvement. for a 2.5 the first page should set you straight. Written by the file author. But my first guess if you just want to jump straight in, is to increase the lfb.

So the roundup:

Try 95 gain, then 80 lfb, 65 fx, 80 dampener (which is power steering). If you like even more bumps then use file 4.5 exp 4, if not, then 4.5 exp 1 is your ticket. If you like those bumps but in terms of front end feel then you would want to currently go with maybe, because exp 1 is ok - 4.5 exp 4 from Karsten where he says he skipped exp ver 3. Now, 4.5 experimental 2 (two) is basically an experimental file in the truest sense and you may prefer that but its vaguer than the others. To conclude: 4.5 exp1 is the newest mainline file, as its improvements will one day be rolled into a version 5. Its the one to go with to judge others by and it won't let you down on any car, whereas the others you will want to be adjusting in game.

- You may think that 4.5 exp 4 is where its at, but do not be fooled so to speak by the fact it offers something 'more', this extra information is not as useful as you may think. 4.5exp1 is the standard because it allows all the force feedback and the tackiness/stick from the tires to be resolved best by your wheel.

- Same too you may think more 'front end feel' is the way to go - and 4 patches ago I would have agreed as that information was useful especially when accelerating down a hill, but a happy medium was found between that and the physics in subsequent revisions (from version 3.4). So this is another reason why the exp1 in my opinion is a gold standard, yes use others if you want, but the reference point for review as per 100% as intended for the game, should be 4.5 exp1.

A direct drive wheel I would need to say something else about, but your 2.5 thats your best bet.

I will be surprised since your wheel is like mine but you can get a little more detail, if this does not work; and my recommendation is to make standard 4.5 exp1; its the most balanced and bumps can get in the way for some people without needing to sacrifice by turning down a slider. You may need to lower gain to 90, or just lower it until it does not clip with the red bar in telemetry across many minutes, could be 95 or lower or as per taste. You can access telemetry in your car hud by pressing left (default) on the selector on the wheel usually. Then once selected you can cycle by pressing down.

-things to note 4.5 exp1 still vibrates (great) like a mofo, but all the things are pronounced just enough and for game-play purposes, example, you hit the curb, its pronounced and you get a 'whollop' from the side on your wheel, the car is revving its pronounced, all the things are there in the right amounts at the right time but also do not get in the way or become the overriding accentuated thing; and it works good for all cars. Other files accentuate some of these things, and many variables may be different give or take, so do not fret that 4.5 exp 1 was the first file out the door.
- I am beyond impressed with 4.5 exp1. and stakinov's in game settings recommendations which I listed.

 

I’m probably not going to be liked, as this is my first post but I agree with Raceracerace in a sense, i agree with the wheel thing, people with low end wheels are probably trying to find the detail with the over exaggerated bumps thing, I’m on a dd wheel, had a dd2 and now VRS, I also agree with the motorcycle reference as I used to race the things until they started to try to kill me!! I think the first 4.5 is an absolute blast (game changer) for me anyway, start there, then tweak to your preference to suit

 

Wow 153 pages!! Can I ask where can I find the latest custom file for my T300 please? Thank you

 

Newest files are (almost) always in the second post

 

Ok great thanks

 

OMG !!!! Thank you so much its perfect! Now we just need a good ranking online system and more people in Multiplayer XD

 

Hey homies,

For those using the rfuktor lol love that name 4.5 exp 1 and maybe other files, you can turn flat spots back on in the file it has its own line. 1.0 is a decent value it says. literally search in note pad for 'flatspot'. You could also turn it down to 0.05-.0.1 and its not as pronounced. If you're a true hero you would put it to .07 however.

If you're not braking right, alright...we're gunna find out...

so for me when I take the f reiza to virginia, putting on flat spots really makes the course that much better and needful to nail each bend and turn. its another tick of approval in terms of tyre, car and race management that adds yet another layer to the sim. As of 1.2 and maybe prior pitting-in has become a seamless affair and adds plenty of depth and choice to the track days; including making more use of the in-car management.

true story - 27% of my best qualifying times and race starts? - come from the AI driver via driver swap in qually... story time is over kiddies. so its pretty good.

No problem. I am glad you found it all and that I composited it into one spot at this interim (150 page stage) has seemed to help you thats great.

 

Are there any users here who have applied this file to DD VRS DFP and can share their observations?

 

Sorry I don't have any direct experience with that system however, for what it's worth, some SimuCube (very knowledgeable) users are recommending potential buyers consider that DD system along side the SimuCube offerings. I consider that high praise of the VRS DD-system as those guys test pretty much everything available.

 

We decided to get rid of experimental now, so took what we felt were the best pieces and here is the result, high end file, with a brand new unique name:

"muscleFuktor" attached:

 

Is this a reference to GM using the files on his streaming yesterday. ?

 

Musclefuktor settings I am doing. (not altering file, adding back settings as per creators instructions on the matter) For higher quality belts in one place, combined with previous pages of settings.

Forget screwing round with the file yourself. If you have a belt then you need to follow this and literally change the menu settings for FFB and camera, AND alter 3 important settings (reiterate: this is so important as the file creators have better equipment and/or can't see to the dozens of variations over time)

If you don't then as the saying goes "you're leaving money/ffb on the table"

The final production values need to match up - thats why we change other settings. I personally never bothered doing this as it was not necessary or possible to reach such a high quality level. Now it is, and I spent 30 minutes because I understand scales within scales very well, and these file structures very well, in order to not mess with it for 150 pages.



For a tx I am able to put the gain back to 100, but nothing wrong with leaving it at 95 either long term or in between those values; this will make up more ground than these values here on quality driving feel. If you have a quality belt-driven wheel and LFB is not 80, you're probably missing out, for example on some FFB quality. values, they were 90-95 or 100, 80, 65, 80, menu spring your choice.

1

(exaggerate_front_load_feel 0.44) (was zero because people didn't like it back ages ago and no one really missed it - and you may like 0.6 better, etc, i doubt it though
and

2
(flatspots_scale 0.07) (was zero)

try 1.0 as the file suggests first. then try 0.7, then 0.4 for example. Sometimes in the case of flat spots its .5 then .1, then .05, etc. or 0.07 which is what I do.

Because the files are basically awesome, you do not have to change much or fiddle with it for ages. If you are ever in doubt about a solid reference point, switch to the very good default mid-lap. You can edit this with the text file open and resinstate the file within the game by restarting the day or changing etc.

3

(tighten_range 1.0) #Use for lower end wheel bases. (you want that at 1.0 for belts almost certainly)

This file's more on-point than in the 3's or 4's days, so you will want this. If one has to create more room in the spectrum and AMS2 is good at that over other sims, as it has a but more to work with than in other sims, then in the center it will suffer, this will be one of the largest differences.

Also, you may wish to drive raceroom in the porsche gte down the nord 24 hour to compare. Thats a 6 point tire model iirc

4
(exaggerate_front_load_feel 0.44) A very important setting, long left out but for which if you have a belt will give you a lot more feel.

I do all my testing at nords, often in the rain, at night, in race conditions, with the text file open on a second screen eyeing off any line which I may need to alter, so far for me (probably everyone who likes high production values) that amount has been.... two...which he basically informed people of anyway.

This will not wreck your file, keep a copy, and is not me saying the file is wrong, its 2 extra features people may or may not like, that can get in the way of driving pleasure/less-sim, more-sim. Remember tightness if you think the file is too loose - this is not new since instructions on this have been on-going - I just personally did not want to alter anything in this regard prior to 1.2 for consistency purposes in devving.

____

If you blocked me then this worked out well and is relatively fitting. I would not add any dissenting voice to the file by suggesting changes, or going contrary to the direction of the file. I find the files' creators process and workflow in this regard top-notch. We're not in August 2020 lol any more

- Just be aware of when you adjust in-game, that your tires especially if its nords, middle of winter, morning, will be cold; practice session and green progressive track will not be rubbered-in. So take into account the dynamics of the day and track. Cold rubber is going to feel different, which are all things I like about the sim. 5 or 10 degrees centigrade can make a large difference to the taciness (stick) of the tire, its air pressure etc. You will see this just like if you took your bike out in the middle of winter in the sub tropics for example. Its fricken brick-like, then its biting better. You will not want to tackle a round-about with any speed or keep it in a safe area of the power band until you know its got some bite.

When you do 180 or 200 kms you are trying to hold the thing straight. A little dash to the right could mean you moved the wheel 3mm. At those speeds you are not so much trying to drive on the curve's or track, but account for the bumps throwing everything off. These cars may alleviate that a bit I suppose.

- Just so we're clear and people understand me, I think this file gives a good amount of high speed uncertainty and control at the same time.

- My values for my non-DD wheel are welcomed, because this file is a high end file, that does more than what 4.5 exp was doing where you could get away with not adjusting the file.

I like that the additional 'swaying' of the car in straight lines, raceroom does this too, and its a sensation missing in AMS2 until now/recently; and because I do not know it well, perhaps it brings this file in line with the default but in a more relaxed manner, default for me has been tight of late but in 1.2 very very good. I like how the car is more weightless with its forward momemtum increase. And the steering sways well.

With my changes for a TX you may wish to do so, as the effect is wonderful all told. If you own a higher end wheel as anyone should know by now in here, then you may not want to change anything. If you do change anything make sure you do it under the guise of reference-point testing. Note that Raceroom is more specific in the lines you can take when driving because the game specifically is designed to help out, which is a different tact to AMS2, thus you may find Raceroom more accurate as its meant to be online-competitive. AMS2 is more of a sim in that sense; its more wishy-washy, not a detraction just different because the style of driving as such does exist within its model.

- if you just want to think about this FFB file and AMS2 for a second - raceroom assumes for gameplay purposes that you are a good driver and in fact with its settings it makes you a good driver so as to not disadvantage you for online play - AMS2 does NOT assume this or mix things up like that, being more pure. Like the AC v AMS2 thing. AC assumes you will race on one line and one line only and puts every car force through the wheel, AMS2 does not, and its probably the better for it as its more free be be expansive. This is reflected in the much better driving experience in AMS2 overall; and if we're being honest is probably what AC2 will strive for. AMS2 has struggled a little due to development, yes, but also the 'greatness' of the driving experience is not always immediately apparent in this sugar rich cookie cutter world. Its likely AC2 will advertise itself into contention etc to get over that, so it hits the ground running. But the forgers of this ideal of open-ended driving has been Reiza in my book unless I am mistaken.

- in order to maintain the aesthetic and feel of the file these settings do not contradict its paradigm; they are settings that possible are not even needed on a DD (or to much lesser values per how you will scale it down for you as explained) or per your taste, but on a tx and similar this will almost undoubtedly be complimentary and fitting.

- I always think of a flatspot sitting under 1000 kg's of car would be noticeable so its glass half full for me.
- I don't adjust slip or anything because its fine, and slips just 'happen' anyway. You can definitely feel it with the main settings adjusted in the menu; saving it is another story, but thats driving. It should not hinge of the FFB alerting you excessively with the hand of god, but determined by your own driving prior. I think its nicely done in the file.

( camera menu settings for shake for mine, good estimates always been fine, and done to the level of the senna f1 mod but more reasonable non-sea sickness levels in RF2. )

camera shake on,
35,
legacy head movement=yes,
40,
yes,
no,
20,
75,
75
VR is probably a different story.

Prepare to still be blown away.

- test with default gte porsche at nords in winter morning. Test with F reiza at Laguna seca with the front ARB at 16 (not 19) in summer, morning 9am [ front feel was already good with this open wheeler but this is extra smoothness and trigger-finger type accuracy in musclefuktor]. And brake bias should probably be 57 front. And note the dynamic tire wear over time as it may force you to adjust ARB and brake bias down or up. Really cool.
If you don't want to do 30 laps at Laguna Seca with that car and the file I would say you're having a joke!

-BMW gte also at winter nords, mist on the roads, and/or both those gte's at a raining nords in a race situation - even better than 2 days ago should be. Thunderstorm will be life threatening, so just add rain in between sunshine or just the non thunderstorm rain. And early-mid morning for temp changes (edit a 30 min session with 30 or 60x 3 slots should do well to get rain shortly and a wet track and patches of sunshine)
- and virginia grand, with the corvette, race situation, set ARB front 13, third spring 11 and back ARB 5. Should be a good one
- alternatively gt3 McLaren, default brands hatch... all those if something is up compared to your preference ffb you should feel it immediately.