Automobilista 2 V1.2.2.0 RELEASED!

For those interested in time-trial challenges (including follow-up races), have a look here:
Bi-weekly TT challenge and follow-up Race

 

Gyroscopic force is just onen factor, not the only one, except AMS2 is now an motorcycle sim. There are a lot more forces in wheel geometry at work there that can definately be felt when changed even in our boring road cars. Tyre pressure woud be the first. +/+ 0,2bar pressure difference make for an immidiate effect in the feel RL.

There are plenty of tracks where wild turn ins are not usefull, and most of them host 24h races, like Nürburgring and Spa, but there you easily reach 270km/h and want high speed stability and precision, at least I do.

"Döttinger Höhe" down to "Tiergarten", for example is one of the spots where GT4s can be faster then GT3s, because of less aero drag. and that's happening RL, not only in Sim.

My gripe with lots of toe in excess of 0,3° is rather friction, but at least that is definately working im AMS2.

 

Something is being changed in the Matrix then...

 

0.1 in, that is all I want, but don't get! And never before I'ven been questioned that much for simply wanting the ability to put my prefered toe in, that is 0.1° per axle and 0.05° per wheel. That's not an absurd value, but -1.2! definately is.
Why is toe out in the front so bastioned here in this forums, and in AMS2 in generell?

Back to the initial and main question that came up!
Why does changing the value in setup, changes basically nothing in the Sim?

How much Placebo is there with chassis settings?

 

But still, those are the values im Looking for and I obviously want to experimtn with. Why, because I tend to develop setups from OEM values onwards. Currently this Sim, ASM2, is, for an unknown reason, the only one that does not allow me to.

The question is why? And why was I able to set that 0.1° a few updates ago, but not anymore?
Regarding caster, thats not a setable valie for all cars, not eben in the same class.

Look at GT4, some have locked ride height, some not, some have only two spring and damper settings, some have 10, some have locked LSD, some not, some changable caster values others not. And very, very few, give me the option to set tow in at all.

Thats my point, I want to experiment with reasonable setup values. Thats a main part of Sim gameplay to me.

Its a bit like with diferrnt tunign shops. Some say, yes put some toe out on that Toyota GT86, other say no, don't do that, that will make it uncontrollabel in the rear etc.

It's the customers choice in the end because a lot is possible RL, even impractibel settings.

 

The "magic" of has hit again...

 

I'm not sure why you are assuming that toe-in has to be a quite significant consequence on the car behavior. It does add its small share like all of the other suspensions settings but there isn't a single item there that causes alone the car to feel immediately significantly different.
I find that ride height, tires pressure, dampers and camber are far more effective than toe-in as it should be. Even 1 degree of toe-out will not sort out a car that is lazy to turn in because of tire pressures or dampers bad settings
Furthermore, toe-in is inherently subject to have more or less effect depending on how much camber and caster you add, what tire pressures you use and what is the stiffness of your suspensions. If you share the car you are looking at and the current setup we may be able to help further figure if there is something hampering your toe changes.
I spend also many hours honing my setups but I don't regard front toe as one of the major contributors.
Talking about toe-in/out the rear one is far more effective for obvious reasons...

 

As I said, there is no specific problem with any car, just the missing option to ue more toe in than 0°
And im simply puzsled that changing from default -1.2° to 0 makes zero difference in cornering ability, but that 0° releases the handbrake. (less Wheel friction)
So, why is -1.2° the default? in the AMG GT3....or -0.5" in GT3 GTE and Cup.

All is does currently, is reducing top speed and shreddign the tyres.
The tyre degradation is the main point, since, as I noted a few times, like to go for distance sometimes, like 10+ laps Nordschleife 24h layout. For tyre conservation I also always use less camber, more closer to sports cars or rally setups rather than race setups. I also always go for 4mm higher ride, softer springs and softer rollbars, when available.

And that, I know for sure, is not uncommon for long distance racing.

Just notice the ride height of the Frikadelli 911 GT3 at NLS. I noticed several times that they use to run a rather high ground clearence there. One of my mentors of the older days was a former Rally driver and he alsways said the "old 80's" Norschleife is best taken with a tarmac rally setup.

 

Rake recommendation for the 991 series in motorsports with default Springs and GT RS wing was 12mm front to rear. Don't know exactly where I got that from, but it was mentioned in a Manthey Racing Team feature a few years ago.

The Porsche Cup and the GT4 Cayman are the most frustrating for me currently, simply because there is not much you can do... most setup values are locked or only 2 steps are available.
I would really like to work more with rebound and rake on them, but options are not there.
We have a sim engine that incorporated body aero ad rae settings, but no options for a lot of cars to use it. Quite frustrating.

 

I don't know exactly what is adjustable in real life on the GT4 cars. I read on internet that there is almost no modifications allowed from the homologated clubsports car but then it seems the Manthey Racing allows for more adjustments than the normal Clubsport. I suspect (but I can't be bothered to check) that GT4s have different degree of allowed adjustability in SRO series vs IMSA supporting series for instance and maybe different again in other places...
However it is, I frankly doubt that whatever is available on internet as "recommendation" is in my opinion little more than a starting point for privateer racing that requires adjustments for the car to drive well. I'm pretty sure that when they race at Sebring or Long Beach they will not have the same settings as Laguna Seca or Daytona in terms of ride height, differential and so on. So I would take the recommended settings with a pinch of salt.

 

Any info is just a starting point, since a lot of that does not translate into Sims. The no or yes question about ride height options in GT4 cars is obsolete for AMS2, since all of the other cars in that class got it already, including a wider variety for damper and spring options. The BMW M4 GT4 and G55 GT4 stick out here with very good options already. Ride height changes often coem by using other springs alone, and that would change camber, rake and caster anyway. In game we are a bit stuck with values that don't correspond to each other, like it worked in Assetto Corsa. AC even shows total ride height including tyre pressure and any other changes. Caster changes with Toe and Camber in AC, its not a simple setting.

 

Well that's what Porsche writes: "MacPherson suspension strut, adjustable for ride height, camber and toe".
"Motorsport three-way shock absorbers, independently adjustable in rebound and compression characteristics (‘Competition’)"

Porsche 718 Cayman GT4 Clubsport - Technical Specs - Porsche Middle East

If we start talking about BoP in the "Reiza GT4" series, then we must start with cars like the McLaren and Camaro.

 

The ktm xbow is ridiculously high and locked that way. There's a while bunch of bop things they did to gt4s. The Camaro is naturally aspirated.
To the dude who's complaining about these gt4s not being specified to the books, the answer is - BOP. There's a bunch of stuff from aris.drives where he talks about some of the crazy bop things in gt4s.

 

The Series in AMS2 is the "reiza series" not FIAor SRO or whatever, it's Reiza rules. With decent "BoP'ed" default settings the whole BoP discussion could be settled with the tab "only standard setups" in the Host options. Let the tweakers tweak!

Locking setups in Race events is anyway the only way to lock turbo boost rates that , otherwise shift the McLaren GT4 to GT3 Power levels.