Automobilista 2 V1.2.2.0 RELEASED!

Yes, even with the McLaren. But I got my answer, the problem is known and will be solved.

 

Good News! Found a soloution, problem solved! Thanks Vortex!

 

For time being increase brake pressure to 100% and you can get the tiniest bit of lock up, but only when brakes are at optimal temp

 

Ran a race with Roco 001 a few days ago. I drove with a group of guys that normally tend to be on par with me when it comes to pace (I'm a pad driver, most of them use wheels). However, that day I was about 1-1.5 seconds per lap quicker.

We compared videos and it seemed that my Roco had significantly more grip than theirs. Setups were equal.

Is there something weird going on with pad vs wheel in that car?

Example for wheel understeer: Twitch

My quickest lap:

 

Honestly watching both videos you just seemed to nail your agression with the car. You sure it wasn't just some combination of driving style+track? You were mad fast there. The only difference that goes on default setups in pad vs wheel is the steering lock but I suppose you had that sorted out too.

 

Most likely it's purely because you can achieve lock to lock more quickly than they can. This came up before in relation to setting a very low degrees of rotation. You don't have more grip you just move through the range quicker. Often really fast drivers will use a very low dor and minimal ffb. It doest feel particularly immersive or "realistic" but it seems to be effective. There's another thread on here somewhere, where smarter people than me explain it better. Maybe it was the physics thread?

 

I tend to agree...

 

It is exactly what they do. Give non-realistic inputs to any realistic physics and you will still get non-realistic behaviors of the car in return.
But certainly they will be able to go faster around the track

 

Great lap!

Could you please post your controller settings? Your steering inputs (corrections) seem to happen much faster than in my game. I often struggle to "catch" the car, once it starts to oversteer, for example. Also, what pad do you use?

Thanks in advance!

 

I don't know how experienced you are with a controller - my settings are somewhat aggressive and might be overwhelming for beginners, because you've got to be pretty delicate with your left thumb.
However, if you're using Reiza's defaults, I'm honestly astounded that you're still playing the game, because these are laughably bad; they are incredibly bus-like and obviously done by someone who hasn't the slightest inkling on how a controller can or should be driven.

If you want to try my settings out, see below. I'm gonna provide you a few additional hints what helps with the turning speed and what doesn't:

Steering Deadzone: 0 (I don't recommend anything else, because inputs tend to be more precise around the center of the stick, at least for me)
Steering Sensitivity: 50 (This can influence the turning speed, but only indirectly. Actually, this determines the amount of turning you can do. Anything below 50, you won't get the full turning opportunities the car has. Anything above 50, only some percentage of the steering range is required for full turn-in)
Throttle Deadzone: 5 (I have a pretty old controller, and without it, I'd accelerate uncontrollably. Not necessary with new ones).
Throttle Sensitivity: 50 (Same principle as with steering sensitivity)
Brake Deadzone: 0
Brake Sensitivity: 50 (Same principle as with steering sensitivity)
Clutch Deadzone/Sensitivity: Doesn't matter; I don't use the clutch.
Speed Sensitivity: 50 (This is an incredibly important setting. It influences the amount of turning range relative to the speed you're traveling at. So, at 0 km/h you've got the full turn-in, but at 200 km/h, you'll have a lowered range. Set this to "100", and you almost won't be able to turn in even in low speed corners. Set this to "0", and you won't be able to give accurate steering inputs at high speeds. A bit of fiddling is required here to find what suits you.)
Controller Damping: 17 (Now this one determines the turning speed you have. Set this to 100 and your car will turn with the immediacy of an ocean liner. Set it to "0", and your input's speed will be mirrored exactly on the screen (which is not really desirable, because too quick turn-in leads to car instability, and pads provoke super-fast inputs because of the low amount of range)
Minimum Shift Time: 0

Pad used is Dualshock 4. I should mention that I don't use the triggers for throttle and brakes; I'm using the right stick, which I find is easier to give accurate inputs with. But that might be a question of habit, as I've been doing so since the very first time I raced anything (which was F1 2004 on the PS2).

I did "gel" with the car quite well, but the amount of time I gained seemed to be pretty excessive compared to other cars. So, I don't think it's possible that it's entirely down to me being quick, even though that'd be nice.

My first theory was (still is) that I simply get more turn-in by moving the wheel than wheel users do. I haven't set the game up this way though, it seems to be that way by default.
There have been weird things going on with the amount of turning the steering wheel does in relation to the amount of turning the car does in PC2, too. So, I'd guess that when I turn so that the wheel moves by 90°, I get the same turn-in that wheels do when moving 180°.

Here's a somewhat excessive example of little turn-in leading to great rotation in PCars2 to make that point clearer:

So, the issue would be that, with the Roco, my wheel opponents didn't turn in as much as the car wants you too - which is understandable, given that you normally wouldn't turn in by 180° for a quick corner. Afaik, there have been physics quirks with the front tires giving more grip if you simply turn in more, even when they've been understeering before?

Don't know whether that could explain the excessive time gain, but it seems to fit with what you say the "pro" drivers do.

 

@Dicra Thank you so much for the thorough and well-written answer, I'm gonna try these out today Will report back!

 

@Dicra Thank you for you explanation of the settings. That helped me tune a controller profile to finally control cars with some sense of accuracy. I don't use a controller often but have guests over so the wheel is inaccessible.

I used your settings to start with and settled on speed sensitivity to 65 and damping to 85.

 

Been getting to know the Porsche RSR, really like it, think its the start of summit beautiful! AMS2 might be the sim thats gunna give us what we had with the Power & Glory mod for GTR2 & the Historic GT & Touring Cars mod for the original ISI Rfactor, please keep em coming! There is one probelm with this car and its the same for the Group A's and a few others, often seems to be the H-Pattern Manul cars. They can't do standing starts, no point in using standing starts, you'll overtake everything before the first corner, so have to use Rolling. Anyone know why this is?

 

Doug from SMS did explain it with reference to the ginetta juniors in PC2 which had the same issue regarding standing starts. Big assumption by me that the causes are related or the same. !My memory fails me as to that explanations details but that's where I would start looking. I do recall he said that ai standing starts for that series in that title were as good as they were going to get. It was in response to a question I raised on it so search using my tag (keena) and you might find it.

 

One reason for this might be that Reiza has choose an non standard gear ratio.

A OEM default would be a Porsche-ZF 915 Gearbox

Differential ratios: 4.428/1, 3.857/1, 5.286/1
1st: 3.182/1
2nd: 1.834/1
3rd: 1.261/1
4th: 0.962/1
5th: 0.759/1

This will give a higher top speed (250km/h@ Daytona oval)
Better standing start acceleration and better torque/Throttle handlig at cornering in 3rd gear.

And on top, it's an more authentic gear ratio that was widely used.

An alternative could be the 915/08 or the ZF 915/44 gear from 1976

Differential ratios: 4.374/1 (not available in AMS2), 3.875/1

1st: 2.400/1
2nd: 1.684/1
3rd: 1.318/1
4th: 1.080/1
5th: 0.889/1

 

If I recall correctly from Pc2 the issue of ai being slow off the line in some series was never resolved. The reason given at the time was the simplified clutch model the ai used..
That may or may not still be relevant.

 

@Dicra What game-changing tips you gave! I'm using an 8BitDo Pro 2, so my settings are different from yours, but MAN.. I managed to get so much better car control by tweaking the settings, now knowing what those settings actually are for!

Thanks again!

 

ok that kinda makes sense, but not great news if it can't be fixed. Thank goodness for rolling starts!

 

Come on Reiza!!
How hard can it be?
Driving without damage in TT mode.
How about just resetting any graphical damages after a crash/restart?
Its not rocket science.
And It has been this way from day one - and now we are on update 10 or what?

ByTheWay: Even my good old granny could probably solve this BUG in a few minutes - if she was allowed to look a bit into the AMS2 code.

 

I believe that the absence of damage in the TT will bring the problem of people taking advantage of crashes, on street circuits for example, to improve their times.