I recently started playing AMS2. I had very difficult time turning corners, braking and going back on throttle in almost every class i tried. I can not drive smoothly without making so many corrections. Cars do not want to brake or accelarate as i expected but rather aggressively. I can hardly trail brake and in many case i have to get on and off breaks for correction. I guess something is of in pedal sensitivity settings. Currently both brake and throttle sensitivity is set to 50. Conventionally this suppose to mean the curve is linear and at 45 degrees not sigmoid or at steeper angle. Is the another parameter that adjust gamma (slope) or curvature. If not; is there a diagram out somewhere that illustrates the sensitivity curves in relation to sensitivity settings for AMS2?
No there are no diagrams and they would likely not be useful anyway because every pedal set has a slightly different response curve and some can be adjusted through software. Just reduce the sensitivity in-game, observe how the response changes on the telemetry HUD, and try to find a sweet spot that gives you pedal confidence.
No one can know what pedals you have or how you have them set up, nor how you prefer to have them set up. It's not guess work, it's just basic experimentation. Every sim racer should know how to set up their gear appropriately, and that includes stuff like pedal dead-zones, sensitivities etc.
Wow that was a bit harsh. When you start a new sim you can not be sure which settings are causing problem. It might be default setups, bad physics or tyre models, your gears settings etc. As i mentioned 50 or (central value) should conventionally be linear and 45 degrees. This is independent from your pedal brand. As we use the same global settings (coming from the drivers) in all sims, we know how our pedals suppose to behave. In game settings suppose to be " how app interprets potentiometer changes". Linear or sigmoid. As a new comer if you can be sure of at least one parameter that should be that. You will adjust your car setups etc and then if you want to have more aggressive or more smooth pedal response you can tweak that to your likings. Same is true for wheel rotation. if you set it to 900 you expect it to be 900 not 1080 or 540. And there is not only several visual cues to observe accuracy of its behavior but also some numeric output that you can be sure what it is set to is what it outputs. Being unhappy with the result depends on personal preference. You can then adjust it to your liking but at least you will be sure of your starting point. Trust me i am not lazy. At the same time i am a stronger believer that computers are here to ease our workload. We should not be manually do things for hours while a computer make the same thing in an instant.
@Taylan Benker AMS2 is not very helpful when setting up controllers, especially if someone is new to the sim. I've found that reducing the brake pressure in individual car setups helped me a lot. At 100% pressure, my terrible Logitech pedals (at 50% sensitivity) would produce instant lock-ups in many cars. Reiza has promised documentation will appear soon. I hope it contains advice for basic controller and FFB adjustment.
I remember from my Pc2 years, that rubber stopper thing in Logitech makes the things worse. You can not press it 100% and giving deadzones introduces inconsistency. I used to fixed the pedals and set the max value by pushing as hard as i could and set the pressure around 90%. My braking was improved a bit, less locking and higher consistency. Though by checking telemetry, i was never able to achieve 100% brake (ranging 90-97%). Some pppl reported that removing the rubber stopper was the solution. Though i never attempted to take it out as i was planning to change it and it was working OK with other sims. Though this is not the sensitivity issue i was referring to. Throttle does not have a in setup parameter like brake but it is still aggressive. As Azaris mentioned above, testing the sensitivity bit by bit is the only solution by now.
I also have Logitech pedals. You can short-calibrate the brake pedal to make sure you achieve 100% brake pressure. I usually just push it to 85% or so during calibration, not to 100% because otherwise I get the inconsistent peak braking performance as you describe here.
