Automobilista 2 V1.3.5.1 Officially RELEASED - Now Updated to v1.3.5.2

I'm sorry but then it's just my AMS2 locks the wheels.

 

Yes, I agree, but I would like you to notice that I don't step even 30% on the pedal and the wheel is already locking in several curves, I will delete my save in the documents folder, because every big update is good to do that, it may even be this small problem because the friend's video the wheels don't really lock, I hope it's without ABS on because I prefer to play without, but thanks for your attention.

 

This car is a bit sensitive to trail braking IMHO. But to my untrained eyes you seem to be braking too heavy while also turning the wheel too much. You can run the video at slow motion and pause as soon as you hear the tires lock up. You have almost full brake pressure with slow speeds/low gear and some 30+ degrees of steering...

 

That is exactly right. You are trail braking quite significantly while giving already a lot of lateral input therefore your inner tire will lock, remember this car has very rigid suspensions so inner tires lose grip much faster than usual.
Also using 68% BB won't help you fighting front wheels locking
Once you are at slow speed your braking must be a fraction of what it was when you started braking at 300 kph, even worse if you are also steering.
To give you an idea, if you make 100 your downforce at 300 kph, once you are down to 100 kph it will be around 10-11, so you lose around 90% of it, while the max power of the brakes remains calibrated for the maximum downforce to make good use of it. Therefore especially in very high downforce cars you need to release the brakes a huge amount.
One way to help you adjusting to that could also be to play a bit with your brakes sensitivity by reducing it quite a bit.

 

Braking in the FU2 at Adelaide is an issue - cars wants to loop around all the time. This is especially the case on the end of Brabham straight and the final hairpin. Go down to 2nd or 1st at your own peril on default set up. What is a setup change that will make these more manageable other than driving like Miss Daisy?

 

Have not run them at Adelaide. One way to help is making the rear rebound dampers softer (other things that could help are softer rear ARB and/or springs but they also carry other unwanted effects so try to avoid if you can). You could also select a higher engine braking setting to reduce the engine braking effect.
Generally on downshifting, Ultimate cars being on 8 gears you wouldn't want to go below 3rd or 2nd for the real slow corners if you really need to. You should basically offset your habits in other cars by one gear up.

 

That's like half-way towards brake magic.

 

Just to add to @Ettore's point above for all the newbies, 1st gear is almost never used in any race car other than to launch from a standing start. You don't use 1st gear because:

• the slowest corner on any "normal" track isn't that slow to require it
• first gear, even on a newer sequential box can be very fiddly to get in and out of, requiring the use of the clutch (whereas the other gears do not) and even with use of the clutch it sometimes takes multiple attempts to get it to go into 1st...and the faster you are going, the more troublesome it is
• race cars are not tuned to glide along the road like road cars--especially in first gear when you lift off the throttle the engine braking is so severe it can easily upset the balance of the car if you are turning or trying to do anything other than slow down in a perfectly straight line

And, as he also noted, threshold braking is used. This is the opposite of our road car driving where we slowly and smoothly apply more brake pressure until the car stops. In a race car, you do the complete opposite--slam on the brakes fully (or close to) at the beginning of the braking zone and then progressively release pressure as speed drops and you get ready for the corner. There is no ABS in most "real" race cars, so the idea is to apply the maximum pressure to slow the car without locking the wheels. Because wheels will not lock easily at all at high speed, you can slam the brakes hard initially. But very strong race car brakes can easily lock the wheels at lower speeds, so by the time you slow sufficiently for the corner, braking is done and you get back on the throttle to drive through the corner.

 

On street courses (or bumpy tracks in general), lower the spring rates all around. The default setups are for an "average" track--when there are lot of bumps the default won't be doing a great job of keeping your wheels in contact with the tarmac.

 

A few days after they were first released I did a race weekend on Adelaide with the F-Ultimate Gen 2. What I found aside from what has already been suggested (softer springs and higher ride height, for instance) I also ended up using A LOT of downforce. It may not seem logical for this track, but I found that having more downforce at the beginning of each braking zone tremendously improved braking performance and stability. What you lose in terms of top speed isn't that much, as far as I could tell at least.

Aside from that you should also look into brake balance and pressure. I personally tend to reduce brake pressure in a lot of cars, as I use the clutch pedal of my G25 as brake when left-foot braking and it has far less resistance than a brake pedal (obviously), so it's easier to lock the wheels.
As for brake balance, if I'm having a hard time figuring out which wheels actually lock up first I like to use a SIM Dashboard design I made for myself, which can show each individual wheel spinning or locking. That being said, it's probably better to reduce brake pressure until it becomes obvious which wheels are locking first and then take it from there with any other adjustments you make.

If it's adjustable in this car, adjusting the strength of engine braking could also help - sometimes it helps to increase this to make locking the wheels when slamming the brakes a little less likely.

One more thing you could also do is look at the differential; try playing around with the number of clutches and/or ramp angles, particularly for coasting. This track definitely needs a careful and sensitive foot on the brake, that's for sure. But if you find your line and get into the flow it gets much easier to avoid locking the wheels.

 

It's not locking at higher speeds, from what I could see. Only when downforce disappears, the brake force obviously then is too strong for physical grip.
Plus the other comments regarding brake balance.

 

Always good to remember from the book (Ultimate Speed Secrets), we cannot exceed 100% of available tire grip. Available grip is distributed among combined duties required for cornering, braking, accelerating (Lateral forces / Longitudinal forces / Combination).

For example: While cornering, we may be using 90% of the tires available grip, that only leaves 10% for braking or accelerating. It's certainly possible to use 100% of grip for a single duty so, effective grip awareness and management is key.

Smooth transitions between braking / accelerating / cornering phases can really help.

With Sim-racing, brake pedal type makes a big difference. Pressure-based (vs. travel input) brake systems excel in aiding our ability to consistently judge effective brake application.

 

The problem with AMS2 is that there is almost no difference in the FFB between hard braking without locking, brakes almost locking, and brakes fully locked. This is consistent between Default, Default+ and the latest rFuktor files. The only signal is through audio in the form of a scrubbing noise that always plays at the same volume regardless of how close to locking you are. When the signal is not there for accurate threshold braking, it doesn't matter how precise your pedal inputs are.

 

That also depends a lot on your settings and hardware... For me it is very perceivable in vibration and reduction on wheel torque. Other hardware or same hardware with different settings may experience different conditions.
On top of that, for sure for the open wheelers there is a clear visual cue that tires are locked so it should be easier to self-educate on what the FFB reaction is when lock-up occurs.
Everything can always be improved but honestly I don't see the events displayed in the video above as something difficult to avoid even in the current state of the sim.

 

You may or may not of looked into this and I don't see them listed in your signature. Bass shakers really help in braking and grip feel. I would recommend one for the front and one for the back. You can tune simhub for brake lock and wheel slip which gives you a warning when you are right at the threshold of braking because one tire starts to spin slower then the other which activates wheel slip. When you fully lockup this will activate the wheel lock effect. I say front and back shakers because when you tune brake bias you can feel if the rears start to slip/lock during trail braking with the rear shaker and you can adjust the bias from that feeling.

Shakers add a very large amount of data/feeling (when you go through the process of tuning) which sometimes can feel like cheating because you can feel sooooooo much more from the cars.

 

You shouldn't need a bunch of gizmos feeding directly off telemetry to threshold brake. Assetto Corsa communicates it just fine with a combination of FFB+aural cues, even with a G29.