Automobilista 2 V1.4.1.0 Released - Now Updated to V1.4.1.3

You a roof rider too

 

Can somebody explain what the reason is that at ovals the inside tyres have higher pressure than the outside tyres (F-USA gen 1 and gen 2) .

The Minimum Recommended Inflation at Daytona for the Nascar 2018 (RL, according to Goodyear) was:
Left Front — 27 psi; Right Front — 50 psi
Left Rear — 27 psi; ; Right Rear — 48 psi​

This is the opposite of what I encountered with the F-USA.

 

When was the 2012 version of Jacarepagua added? I swear I don't remember that being around since before recently

Would be nice to get some period correct Stock Cars too, maybe as a throwback to Reiza's first entries

 

Doing a complete re-install, deleted documents folder. Only 14 hours until it completes the download. YAY! Damn this slow internet. I hope it helps. I will know tomorrow.

 

I needed about 60 minutes incl. set up.I wish you the best.

 

What kinda internet have you got? I'll be taking that!

 

60 it takes me 20

 

Evening update and I’m starting to believe a file got corrupted or something.
I dropped my FX down to 46 which is my rf2 starter car specific multiplier number and it was too weak. I then chucked it up to 80 and it was far too much. I then dropped it back to 46 and it’s like the ffb completely reset itself during those changes.
This morning on standard default I was running G 45 LFB 65 FX 100 D 0. This evening I’m now running G 46 LFB 10 FX 42 D 0 which is giving me similar feels to what I described this morning.
Default+ remains the worst FFB I’ve ever experienced and I truly wish you guys could feel what I’m feeling on default+ on a DD wheel.
Point is something isn’t right for my settings to change to such extremes to be getting similar strengths and details on the same day with no hotfixes or updates going in.
I tried also dropping FEI to 60 on both flavours whilst messing around and I’m keeping that at 90.
I will try again in the morning and see what happens with some fresh eyes, hands and legs.
Anyone who read my previous comment #669 for my FFB settings, please do not use them, now that my default has appeared to reset itself, they are borderline dangerous and you could injure yourself with them. Thank you.

 

The crappy kind. I just switched USB ports for my wi-fi antenna...maybe that will help. I get about 1mbs download speed from steam. . Oh well. I will just have a few beers and watch the little blue bar slowly work it's way across the screen..

 

You must have Internet service like mine. If you have decent cell phone reception, hot spot off of your phone. My wife set that up for me and I used my cellular data. It went much quicker than my lousy Internet.

I'm not knowledgeable on the details of how it's done, but there must be instructions on the web. Good luck!

 

Bad internet is a curse I'd wish on noone, I have it myself

 

a toast to fiber optic internet...

 

Long time ago.. Maybe almost a year

 

20? It takes me 10, so nah nah na naaaah nah.

 

Good idea! But won't work for me...I don't have enough data available on my stupid phone. I have heard of switching where steam downloads from, but I wouldn't know what to choose. I am in NY. Probably a very busy time for steam. With it being "peak gaming hours" right now. And stuff.

 

This is exactly what driving a high downforce car should feel like.

The problem is that some of your other settings are out-of-whack if you are overpowering the subtle forces that occur at lower speeds.

 

All right, in the interest of shedding more light on getting AMS2 working nicely for everyone, here are all my pertinent settings.

First of all, I did a clean install, then restarted my computer. I have all hot fixes installed, after which I also restarted. So I presume that I'm running the latest FFB files, if anything changed.

Also, I know little to nothing about computers and peripherals, so if anyone has any tips, I'm all ears. But this feels pretty good to me.

I'm using a Thrustmaster T300RS GT wheel and pedals. The three-pedal model, with a clutch. I drive in VR with an Oculus Rift S, if that makes any difference. I'm running the latest Thrustmaster drivers.

Options/Gameplay/Authenticity/

Steering Assist: NO
Braking Assist: NO
Automatic Clutch: ON
Gearing: Automatic

(Yeah, I got tired of shifting. I'm old, retired, and lazy).

Driving Assists Allowed: Authentic
Opposite Lock Assist: OFF
Damage Type: OFF
Mechanical Failures: NO

(Just turned damage and failures off today. Was running full).

Tyre Wear: Authentic
Fuel Usage: Real
Automatic Engine Start: YES
Flags & Penalties: ON
Manual Pit Stops: YES

Options/Controls/Configuration

Steering Deadzone: 0
Steering Sensitivity: 100
Throttle Deadzone: 7
Throttle Sensitivity: 50
Brake Deadzone: 7
Brake Sensitivity: 50
Clutch Deadzone: 7
Clutch Sensitivity: 50
Speed Sensitivity: 0
Controller Damping: 100

(Is that excessive?)

Controller Vibration: 50
Minimum Shift Time: 0
RPM/Gear Display: NO
Enable Analogue Inputs In Menu: NO

Options/Controls/Force Feedback

Type: Default+
Gain: 75
Low Force Boost: 50
FX: 50
Damping: 0
Menu Spring Strength: 40

Thrustmaster Control Panel/Gain Settings

Overall Strength of All Forces: 75%
Constant: 100%
Periodic: 100%
Spring: 100%
Damper (Also affects the weight of the wheel): 100%

Boost (Constant + Spring): OFF (Default)

Auto-center Settings: By the Game (Recommended)

So that's everything that I can think of that might be pertinent. If anyone has any other suggestions, I'm listening. As I said, I may know about cars, but I don't know much about computers and peripherals.

The Default+ feels good to me with this, after trying various settings.

One more thing, I do my own car set ups, and typically lower caster to around 3.0 to 3.5 or the lowest it will go if minimum is higher. I also typically reduce camber and toe.

If you try these settings, do three laps to put some heat in the tires before you really open it up. Tips welcome, I hope this post helps.

 

I'd very much appreciate one of the devs' take on the whole re-install thing...
I remain fairly convinced that the updates are set up in such a way that doesn't necessitate this arduous chore with every big update.
Re-installing as a troubleshooting device should be an absolute last resort, and it's become way too ubiquitous imo... It's thrown around forums like nobody's business; "ya tried re-installing windows?" Yeah, silly me, I thought I might get my Radeon drivers to work as advertised without having to spend an afternoon setting things up as they were.

Anyway, I'd love for any of the devs to shed light on this. If anything at all is found, I will promptly re-install.
Until there is some confirmation that it actually changes/fixes anything, I see very little point in the whole exercise.

 

Switching download servers sometimes help, if you switch to one in a place where everyone is asleep.