Automobilista 2 V1.4.1.0 Released - Now Updated to V1.4.1.3

Didn't make an awful lot of sense to me either, or I'd have tried something like it earlier...
See for yourself, default ffb with fx to 0 and your wheel damper of, just the in-game one on a sensible setting.

Sense or no sense, that's where I stand.
It's not even a mild change, it's a different game.

 

Yes, you could have just deleted your folder

 

Thanks I will try that. But the risk is losing speed in a straight line if I do that. the AI literally drops me in a straight line at Fontana. And if the AI didn't slow down too much in the corners (this also happens at the last corner on Daytona Oval), I'll become a dot in their rearview mirror in one lap. Any idea how to increase my speed?
I don't understand this difference in IA level. On Gateway, the problem has been solved: I can run with AI but not on Fontana and Daytona. I hope Reiza will watch this. Anyway, thanks for your help.

 

I have no clue why people are dissagreeing with this. It actually blows my mind.

 

I still allow some damping with the DD1.

 

A few more observations, on the current release version:

• The Formula Retro Gen1 cars now drive really really nicely. The Brabahm BT44 is my new favourite non-truck car in AMS2. Also, Tyrrell P34 when? ^^
• The 1979 Opala has no working headlights, but does have working tail lights - not brake lights, actual tail lights. Is this correct to the real car?
• The dashboard texture on the F-Vintage Gen1 cars looks quite shabby in low lighting conditions, possibly because the texture isn't all too high quality.
• On the F-Retro Gen1 Lotus 72E, the right hand mirror can only be adjusted vertically, not horizontally.

I also noticed another thing that I found weird. In a manual car with an h-pattern gearbox, whenever you go from neutral to 1st gear, the car does a little jump even with the clutch fully pressed in, which I'd argue it shouldn't do. I noticed by coincidence that putting the car in gear does not allow it to freely roll, even with clutch pressed. Now this could be some misconfiguration on my end, so please give it a try.

Following steps to reproduce:

• Select a manually shifted car. I tried the F-Vintage Gen1 and F-Retro Gen1, but it could probably happen on any manual car, maybe even in sequential cars with manual clutches.
• Use the telemetry HUD so you see your pedal traces to make sure your clutch is fully disengaged.
• Go to Imola '72.
• Go about half way up the pitlane and stop the car.
• Clutch in, go to neutral.
• Due to being on a slight incline, the car will start to slowly roll backwards.
• Select 1st gear (or any other) - keep the clutch pressed fully!
• The car will slow down and almost stop.
• Go back to neutral, the car will resume rolling backwards.

Now I'm far from being an expert on historic race car clutches, but I'm still quite confident that fully disengaging the clutch should fully disconnect the engine from the rest of the drivetrain and simply selecting a gear should not hinder the car from rolling.

 

Any reaction maybe?
So often people discuss many ... things but won't attemd relevant things.

 

There is some confusion between the effects of resetting everything back to defaults, which can affect the feel of cars in the game, and needing to accomplish that by reinstalling the entire game. There are multiple ways to achieve a reset to default, but some believe that a total reinstallation of the game is somehow different or better from the other methods.

As I mentioned above (and @CrimsonEminence has corroborated), there is no requirement to reinstall. But go ahead if it makes you feel better or you have nothing better to do with your time.

Resetting things that could affect the feel of the cars can be done with a much less intrusive method and with much less time expended.

 

Yes, they are still broken as the Opala Old.

 

I agree 100% especially on Default +. You need to turn it down

 

I’m in the camp of doing a full re install, I uninstalled the night before and installed once update out . I’ve had no issues and the cars being mentioned feel fine to me , infact i’d say the Caterhams feel more front grip than before,

previously with 1.3 i had an issue with some things and was struggling for pace in a certain combo around nords ,
reinstall the game and immediately went 10 seconds faster .

so i just take the doubt out of the equation, i’m lucky as it only takes 20 mins max to do install.

 

Thank you, believe I also had it in single race mode as well

 

I cannot believe people are literally reinstalling the game. Unless you are messing with mods and broke something, deleting the documents file is all you need to do if you do need to reset everything

 

I wonder if that is the case. I had tried out some mods that I did not like under v1.3, and removed them, file by file.

Nevertheless, I decided to do a clean install when v1.4 was released, just to be 100% sure that there were no lingering effects related to the mods that I had removed.

Almost immediately after v1.4 was released, I noticed problems being reported that I did not have.

Common sense tells me that deleting the, "My Documents" folder and then verifying file integrity in Steam should fix everything.

But my experience with v1.4 has been almost entirely trouble free, so I'm wondering if what I did eliminated some old mod residue. I have not had many of the problems that I see being reported.

 

I have cracked the Reiza FFB code haha
I’m now in love with this FFB and I would never ever in my wildest dreams have used these numbers, without your help and advice, so thanks again.
For both flavours I’m still in the camp of a tiny bump in volume of front end bite accelerating out of corners and then I’m all in!
For everyone else here’s my settings
Fanatec wheel base DD2
Scaling set to peak
FFB Strength 36, FEI 90 and Force Effect strength 100. Everything else wheel related ZERO! Brake options whatever you fancy and spring keep to 100 so it matches ams2 menu recentering spring strength.
Reiza car specific strength gain 94%
Default Flavour
Gain 36 LFB 0 FX 0 Damping 16
Default + Flavour
Gain 30 LFB 0 FX 0 Damping 24
Default + does have slightly more details, the most notable one’s are going over kerbs and road details especially down straights. I can now see me using both flavours and I think I’ll be using different flavours for different cars. Rather than deciding which is “the best” it will now be a case of the best flavour for a particular car.
No floaty feels, no rubber band feels, no wheel going light, no jerking n jolting, I now have gradual informative ffb coming through and I’m really really impressed, I feel connected, I can’t stop driving, it feels natural and I’m out of superlatives now haha
Thank you so much and hope this helps others!

 

all we can do is share our experiences, just resetting to defaults and making a new my docs folder just haven’t work for me in the past . it’s no big deal to to reinstall , so might as well just to be sure ,
it’s only an issue if you have Pigeon carrier internet .

 

You are perfectly right. It is complete nonsense and the only thing they are doing is masking some bad reactions coming from the vehicle with filters on steering forces.

 

Force Feedback. I'm running a Thrustmaster T300RS GT (has a clutch, three pedals), for reference.

Taking the advice of @Marc Collins whom I thank profusely, I spent a lot of time tweaking my own FFB from scratch.

Here are my preferred settings with my rig.

First of all, set, "Allowed Assists" to, "Authentic". I find that the driving assists sometimes have weird, possibly unintended effects. Set it all to, "Authentic" if available, or "OFF" if there's no Authentic setting. You'll get used to it.

Item two. In the Thrustmaster Control Panel, I left everything default except damping. I turned damping down from 100% to 0% in the Thrustmaster Control Panel, and rely on the in-game damping.

Under Options/Controls, I left the stuff under the, "Configuration" tab at default.

Under, "Force Feedback", I made these changes:

Type: Default+
Gain: 90
Low Force Boost: 35
FX: 20
Damping: 30

I tested with a variety of cars from several different classes, turned many laps at several different tracks, and for me this is as good as it gets.

One more tip. Even if you don't do set ups, turn caster down to around 3.0 or as low as it will go if minimum is higher. I find that all default set ups have excessive caster. Yes, it makes the car feel more stable. But if you start to lose it, you probably won't be getting it back. They'll feel a bit more twitchy with lower caster settings, but if you start to lose it, you'll be able to recover.

So there's my opinion. Yours may be different. You might hate my settings. You might need to tweak some. But it's a good starting point, especially if you have a Thrustmaster wheel and pedals, and I hope that this information helps a few people.

 

I tried this just now as well, and I agree cars feel quite different and more direct. I'm just guessing, but I think the difference in dampening in game and through the wheel software, is that the latter has a tiny bit of processing delay as opposed to the in game dampening.

This delay in the dampening has about the same effect in feel as a slightly softer tire sidewall, as the forces on lateral load ramp up just a tiny little bit later. This explains the 'rubberyness' with the wheel software dampening, and the more connected, direct feel with in game dampening.

Again, I could be completely wrong, but I just guess it has something to do with the difference in telemetry processing.

 

I think GearNazi originally meant that the FX provides a snap of FFB when starting to oversteer on power even a little, rather than the actual car snapping.

the fx increases stuff like that and also the brakes locking up feeling.

The fx force is the filter so removing fx should have the opposite of what you say. And then you rely more on the existing ffb and how the vehicle moves in game to control the car rather than an added ffb which is not the actual physics.

I felt it myself on my dd1. I have it ffb quite strong so even on 10 Fx the wheel would mainly snap sideways on power oversteer and so as it’s so strong and sudden compared to other forces, it is hard to correct. It’s basically jerking the wheel and makes it ot harder to do a controlled corner exit on the limit.

It’s directly interfering with your steering so it’s going to affect the car oversteer,
Normally you might do a small correction only and be fine. As it is with FX the steering wheel is fighting you by forcefully moving wheel in the direction you dont want it and making you resist it with more force and delay in correcting it.

It can be interpreted as an undriveable car in some cars I guess.

with it off, i don’t feel the brakes limit as much as before but maybe I was relying on it a bit much. The corner exit for me mainly feels more enjoyable and consistent and less snappy as the force just seemed a bit out of proportion and tiring to have to control every lap.

I may experiment with it on 1 or 2 but I think i would eventually have to turn it off at least for some cars.

As I believe the fx is a boost to specific parts of the ffb rather than something entirely separate. If you have a strong wheel you probably don’t need it. Someone correct me if I’m wrong.

On further testing a small bit of fx does enhance the overall feeling of driving generally so it might be a tradeoff