Automobilista 2 V1.4.1.0 Released - Now Updated to V1.4.1.3

I think there's a bug in F-Classic Gen 2 Model 3 (Turbo) car. You can use turbo boost all the time and it doesn't deplete. Is this how it works or bug? Works differently in F-Classic Gen 1 Model 1 and 2.

 

@Marc Collins
Dear Marc,
then please explain to me,why despite deleting the folder in documents,nothing changed in the behaviour of the program,which normally should be.only after a new installation,the program was at the state it should be.i first deleted the folder,then made all the settings again,it was the same as usual.after that,only the new installation was carried out.the same after success with the beta version. In retrospect I regret not having done it months ago.but who seriously thinks of such a thing.the fact is that with some systems a reinstallation is necessary.due to windows,various hardware differences and drivers.I myself am an electronics engineer and IT freak since PCs have been around and don't tell me that such a thing would not be possible.I and others have done it and everyone has felt the same effect and all have deleted the Ams2 folder beforehand.
That alone is not enough and the developers should take note of that.I can't explain it,you can't explain it.Nobody is to blame.And not everybody has this.Was clearly state for those who can read.

 

just a question.
Is the game installed on SSD or HDD?

 

SSD! Checked as ok.

 

Tecnically FFB can change how a car handles, but indirectly. For instance with a difference in the caster of front suspensions (usual in oval cars) the car can tend to turn when braking. In that case you would feel the torque in the wheel. If your FFB do not shows that you are virtually applying torque to compensate, without even noticing.

A simpler example is how you are turning the wheel in each suspension bump. Not sure if this is what you mean anyway.

BTW, in Jacarepaguá I F-USA Gen 1 tends to turn left when braking. I don't know how the setup is configured (not at home yet), but I suppose it has to do with caster (or other assymetries, perhaps).

 

I also have AMS2 installed on an SSD, and after a clean install when v1.4 was released, I have virtually none of the commonly reported problems.

I did the clean install when v1.4 was released to make certain that nothing had been changed by mods that I had tried and uninstalled, even though I removed them file by file.

My experience with v1.4 has been all but trouble-free.

 

It's amazing isn't it! Just get the wheel-specific settings out of the way and follow simple steps to find the right balance with the game's FFB sliders. I suspect if you have other sims that you play, you may find their FFB improved, too, if you start afresh. Of course, none has as good FFB as AMS 2

 

I followed your recommendations, Marc, and the basic guide to which you linked earlier in this thread, and after a lot of testing my FFB feels very impressive with my rig. I can't imagine it being better. Thank you for all the advice and tips!

 

The in-game damping is a sophisticated element of a complex algorithm that makes up the entire FFB system. The wheel control panel damping is a blanket/generic effect that does not communicate with or integrate into a game's FFB programming.

 

I rember how oft i was ask about settings in TS-Driver for setting up FFB right in other games and i always said the same.Don't change the settings let them be on "default" except gain,let the software decide.Change the settings in-game.They stoned me to death about that "damping thing". You took the right words to explain.But you will still find someone stubborn askin'

 

As an electronics engineer, you are well aware that we are dealing with a DIGITAL product here. There is no physical entity to wear or massage or adjust in an ANALOGUE manner.

If all the bits and bytes are identical, the end result is also identical.

GAME A: Been on the PC for a long time and could be corrupted or who knows what?

GAME B: Brand new install on same PC and hardware.

GAME A becomes identical to GAME B when one performs a successful Steam integrity check (for the game files) and deletes the user folder (for all the settings and configuration).

But more important than clarifying this law of physics is that even the deleting of the user folder is unnecessary in anything other than the most extreme circumstances. We used to have to delete the tuningsetups folder or its contents--the game now does that function for us. There a few other files that could be individually deleted if all else fails, but again, they are all in the user folder and would be reset if that was deleted.

Another strategy is to rename your user folder. Then, the game will create a new one and if you enjoy this sort of thing you could switch back and forth between them (by renaming them) to see what the differences were. There will be none unless you, the user, change something or use a different calibration of your controller.

What has happened to me, and others have mentioned it above, is that a recalibration of our controllers in the game--making no other changes--can yield a different feel. This is still a bit of a mystery as to why Madness-based games sometimes "lose" their calibration, but once again this can be achieved without reinstalling the game or deleting the user folder. Just go in the menu in the game and recalibrate.

I am quite alright if you disagree--and I have no concerns about reinstalling the game if you or others prefer. There is no harm besides time lost. I am not convinced that there is plausible explanation how it is possible that identical digital files on the identical hardware can produce a different result, but will shut-up about it going forward.

 

As an exercise, I would suggest turning FFB gain to 0 and seeing how the physics of any car "feel" in comparison.

Now repeat the exercise with normal FFB but all sound volume turned to 0.

I think you will be surprised at the difference of perceived vehicle response.

 

I like this explanation a lot! Just goes to show that having a dozen or so sliders can work wonders, but also ruin the whole experience...
It's been mentioned earlier, but it might be beneficial for all if Reiza were to tactically post a recommendation where new users can't miss it, so they don't run into awkward handling issues.
I swear, just the wheel-software dampening and FX-slider, that's it.
And in one fell swoop you're rid of most, if not all of the undesirable traits and quirks that we keep hearing about.

It's past 1:00@m, just one more lap

 

On the weekend , a friend joined me on discord in some testing of new update, we both were trying it for the first time, using the same lobby , same car etc.

I had done my way of fresh install, he just did the normally steam update and reset to default .
He had repeated issues with the car being unable to get out of pits due to a bizarre sticky tyre bug like what Tarmac Terorist had a while back.

In the end he did a new install and all has been fine since .

 

Correct me if I am wrong but FFB doesn’t change any of the physics of the car but only how they are “relayed” through the wheel. A great example of this is using Default FFB. When you turn too hard at too high of speed, the wheel goes light indicating loss of traction. However many custom FFB file reduce this or completely eliminate that light feeling in the wheel. You car still loses traction but the wheel still feels heavy. So the car handling hasn’t changed but the feeling changes and that can change how you drive.

The great thing and also challenging aspect of AMS2 is the amount of customization in FFB. There are almost an infinite amount of adjustments. Compare this to say R3E or rF2.

 

This is very close to what I settled on as well!

 

In RF2 i only can adjust gain in game and live with it
Rf2 FFB is overrated IMHO! My brain wanted to say obsolet but no.....

 

Regarding the FX setting with DD wheel, i just tested it on the Sauber Mercedes Group C which i found had an especially forceful power oversteer when the turbo kicks in when in 2nd gear, and that is hard to adjust with differential without messing up the car setup

I put FX on 10 like i normally had and floored the throttle from 2nd gear, 0km/h in straight line and would quite easily lose control without a small lift as the wheel would very forcefully move suddenly.

When i had FX on 0, i could basically accelerate all the way from 2nd into 3rd gear without a problem or any lift, with only some light resistance in the steering felt as the tires were gripping which is what i want to feel. Even tested a few times as the tires warmed up, it got better but still couldnt control the higher fx settings well.

In some cars if the FX is too high the steering wheel moves too much suddenly and can literally make me lose control and oversteer that i cant control quick enough as the steering has already changed.

Maybe in other cars a small bit of fx is good as it also adds to the overall immersion and helps you to feel the limit a bit in the braking phase of a corner so you can brake later.

Edit: A good compromise i found is probably to decrease Force Effect Intensity a bit in Fanalab so the sudden wheel forces arent as intense basically, including kerbs, then you can have the benefits of a small amount of FX

But i hope Reiza can fix that strong oversteer FFB so we can still use it without any issues

 

Car has a better feel, solid is my best explanation. The jacker i feel is working good. I think the car is too glued to the track now. There’s not as much aero push, didn’t really need to use the jacker, as using it eats up tires. I only had about 30 min (movie night w/wife lol). Took some big swings with springs, less rear wing, a lot of rake on the car, more rear bar, less front bar. I think it’s too tight, couldn’t get the arrrsss loose at all. Damn Ai keep brake checking me before t2 exit. There needs to be a lot more trimming but this isn’t like the ir18, there’s only so much. Thanks for tweaking. I know you’ll work on the Ai, although they are ready for napcar, they want to wheel (door) slam you lol

 

Now, that car would be a cool addition.