Automobilista 2 Custom Force Feedback - Overview & Recommendations

Hallo Daniel eine Frage ?
Kann ich deine FFB Files einfach so in den AMS2 Dokumente Ordner einfügen... oder muss die Orginal Datei Umgeschrieben werden ? Mit Kopieren , Löschen und neu einfügen. Habe deine V70 Version viel genutzt. Doch derzeit verwende ich das Reiza FFB. Oder gibt es Tipps das ich dein V70 noch weiter benutzen kann. Lg Gehn Raus

 

Du kannst die V70 Datei einfach in den Dokumente Ordner legen. Sie sollte dann ffb_custom_settings.txt heissen. Wenn Du mal mehrere Files hintereinander testen möchtest, empfehle ich Dir das Madness Tool - Custom FFB and Profile Manager . Damit kannst Du Profile für die verschiedenen Files anlegen und brauchst nicht jedes mal den Filenamen anpassen, wenn Du wechseln möchtest. ;-)

 

Hey Super Danke dir für die Schnelle Anwort Top

 

I'm a fan of the pure rack feeling that the original custom FFB file gives. However, it appears to have some sort of 'soft' clip on some cars. Example is the F Ultimate Gen 2 and the BMW GTE. The FFB bar in the telemetry UI seems to clip at around 50% in these cars. Is this a bug, or is it intended? Any idea what values I can tweak in the FFB file to remove this clipping?

For reference, I'm using a Simucube 2 Pro at 100% strength. In game is 30 gain and 40 damping.

 

Hello !If I understood you correctly, you take Basic FFB.The problem has nothing to do with your FFB, it would also be wrong with the defaults or a custom file.The problem is your in-game settings on the base and in the game.With your settings you lose almost the entire FFB range, which is why you also see these errors in the FFB graph.With the right settings you will get the full FFB again
On your Simucube 2 Pro, change the gain to about 50% (12.5Nm Peaks) and the damping to about 20%. In the game the gain is about 68% and damping to 0%. This will solve your problem

 

Hi Daniel! Thanks, I will try those settings later today and let you know how it goes.

 

Many people make the mistake of running their base at 100% and then driving at a very low level in the game. I also always run at 70% on base.

 

I think a lot of people think 100% gain on the base is full FFB. Yes, it makes sense for bases up to about 10-12Nm. With these forces it is possible to simulate the full force with the full FFB. But if the forces get even higher, this is no longer possible and the ideal range for the base should be found. Only then can the FFB also simulate its 100% and will not be cut or clipping will occur

 

Sorry, I gave you the wrong values with gain, I've corrected them now

 

Thanks Daniel, those values feel much better all round. Still some light clipping, but not really a problem now. Thanks again!

 

Maybe raise your ingame Damper only so high, until it stops clipping.

 

Yes that is a possibility. Also, the vehicle specific FFB can be used to avoid clipping (every car behaves differently). There are of course many other factors that can cause clipping. As mentioned, the main cause is wrong gain values at the base and in the game. Then FX is also an important point (but now only in the Custom Files). Damping also a little (for me personally) as little as possible to get as much pure FFB as possible. And finally, wheel choice (size, weight, leverage) all factors to increase or decrease clipping. That's why I put a lot of focus on clipping with the V80 Customs. Finding balance is the key to feeling good on the wheel and enjoying the FFB

 

Is there a difference In keeping the base at 70-80% and in game at 100% compared to the reverse scenario?

 

It's not quite the same due to clipping and the FFB signal having finite precision. A balance of things needs to be considered:

• If the game output is too low compared to the maximum possible, then you lose FFB precision because the signal has finite precision (sort of bad).
• If the game output is too high compared to the maximum possible and clips, then you lose information (bad).
• If a DD wheelbase is at 100% and the game bugs out and sends maximum force, then you're getting hurt (very bad).

 

New Moza pit house setting for R9 on Default. This takes care of the heavy curb strikes while maintaining road feel. Cars my individually be adjusted between 95 - 105% gain.


FFB Equalizer
10HZ - 100
15HZ - 80
25HZ - 70
40HZ - 60
50HZ - 40

Linear FFB curve

In game Default. Default + also feels good with these settings.
58
3
20
50

 

I've heard this question many times. Yes, it's not the same if you reverse the gain values. I always recommend people to test it themselves while watching the FFB graph, then they will understand. I think a lot of people also take the values from "big youtubers" because they think it's right. I would be careful here, there are only a few who are really serious and credible

 

There is a big difference, depending on exact custom file you use.
The below difference is not valid for default/default+, at least as they used to work, not 100% sure now, since I'm not in ams2 any longer.

Adjusting the base power will depend on that wheel base software, but normally will simply scale the force accordingly, so at 80% you would receive 8nm max force on a 10nm wheel base.

Using the custom files here will, generally, not limit the top end. It will instead detect that there is additional headroom/possible dynamic range, the lower you set the gain the more range, and will try to use this for better feeling of both downforce and gyro effect etc.

So:

If you prefer a more compressed experience or if you use a lower end wheel and need forces to ramp up quickly, then you should go higher on the in game gain, although 100% likely will still be too limiting on sensations.

If you have a higher end fanatec wheel base or any DD and you like a bigger range of force feel sensations, you should use lower in game gain.

In both cases you then adjust the wheel base gain to suit how strong you need it.

Combine this with lfb setting also for how fast you need the ramp up at the low end of forces.

I used to put the in game gain to something like 35-65%, lfb at some single digit setting(some times 0 even) , and the wheel base force at anywhere 15-25nm. This would give a high dynamic range, less compressed, that gives a better sense of downforce, gyro and so on. More varied and interesting.

A little more info to add to the confusion

 

It makes me happy to hear from them again. Yes, the confusion can grow the more information there is. I think finding the right balance is the most important thing. And of course I'm happy to be able to use your FFB, especially after this big update from Reiza. There were also major changes in the file for me to adapt to the new physics. I wish you a nice time

 

Karsten, good to hear from you again !!!

 

Does this mean, maybe, he might have another little surprise for us?