Automobilista 2 Custom Force Feedback - Overview & Recommendations

Basically your logic is correct.Only in reality it is a little different.Only when understeering will your forces become smaller if you reduce understeer_scale.With oversteer it's exactly the opposite, the forces become higher when you reduce oversteer_scale.Understeering is directly linked to the steering axle, but oversteering is not.That's why you have less braking feeling when you reduce the oversteer because you then activate other high forces that mask it.
I can't answer whether the creator intended this or not. Nor whether this is physically correct or not. In the end, what counts for me is what I feel on the steering axle and ultimately on the wheel in my hands

 

@Danielkart I’m currently on v70+ with my sc2 pro, going to try the v300 later today. I noticed with the 70+ file I started getting clipping notifications from the base, also reflected in the ams2 telemetry screen, this is pretty easy to trigger in the f-usa 23 and other higher downforce cars. Is this something you noticed with the files? I don’t think it ever clipped in prior files. I turned the power up to try and avoid it but it still wasn’t 100%. It’s manageable though. Thanks for all your work on these. These files change ams2 for me.

 

Disregard this comment , posted a reply instead of a edit

 

Hello Theo!Yes, I know that the V70Plus could cause clipping in cars with high downforce.The high forces in the curves are also still very high.The F USA 23 is one of my test cars because of its high downforce.I think the V300 will surprise you.I now even drive this car with 20% FX and 50% gain (12.5NM) on the base and, for example, I rarely have a report of clipping at Road America.Of course, this car is very extreme with the downforce.Don't forget to reduce the damping to 0

 

I've switched to your v300 (default, not edited) and it behaves very well with my CSW 2.5. So, when can we expect v400?

 

Okay i got a few laps in with v300, running 70% gain in TD and 60% in game, doesn't seem to be clipping much if at all. File feels great as always. I do run a fairly light wheel most of the time, a cube controls formula. And this file did bring back some fairly violent oscillations, fixed with 10% inertia in true drive though. Thanks for another great file!

 

Yes Theo, that should definitely be taken into account. It matters what kind of wheel you ride with. Weight, leverage and diameter are important factors. Of course I have to make a compromise, which is why my customs are always tested with a wheel that is roughly in the middle. In my case the Tahko or the Cube Controls Pro GT Wheel

 

Hi guys!

Finally, I have my personal V300 custom file for the Simucube 2 Pro.The counter pressure when braking in corners has been slightly increased.Slightly adjusted IN-game values and slightly adjusted base values

Have fun with it

 

FullFFB - New Version​

What's new:

• Low Force Boost Slider (LFB) is now functional (before, was fixed at 15)
• Damping slider is now functional (before, was fixed at 20)
• Improved lateral weight transfers
• Improved track bumps feeling (now includes all vertical G-Forces acting on the vehicule)
• Longitudinal forces/weight transfer now depend exclusivelly on car G-Forces (from physics engine)
• Better front wheels grip differences/discernement/separation
• New recommended in-game gain settings (58-15-35-20)

Still to improve/implement:

• Bottoming out effect, to par with sound fx. Depends on Reiza, but expected to come
• ABS/TC effects, perhaps?
• Oscillations in straight line, hands-off (ask Bottas what he told his engineer when asked to take hands off the wheel for a moment )

 

Hey Theo! You drive with 70% gain on the base and 60% gain in the game.With such high gain values at the base (that's around 17-18Nm) you will of course get vibrations and oscillation of the wheel.I tested these values from you and also had the wheel swing very quickly.I always aim for around 12-13NM, which feels best for me and I think it's a generally good sweetspot for strength.Maybe you can also try reducing the forces in the base, it will give you much less or no vibration at all.But if you're happy with it, you can of course stick with your settings.The most important thing is always personal taste

 

Wheel base strength/gain should always be set to max on the Windows side and reduced ingame to suit. Failing to do this and you will experience clipping. And why would you spend the money on a 20nm wheel only to turn it down? On my wheel for example which is 26nm I only use about 20 gain ingame and zero everything else. I just add damping to suit.

 

Hey Supa!

It's not just about how much power your base has.This is completely irrelevant.The very large dynamic range of a DD is much more important than having 20NM force.If you tell me that you use 20% gain in the game and 100% on the base, I can tell you that it is the wrong way.You will lose almost all FFB feedback with 20% gain in the game.You will mainly only feel your pure power on the base, but that has nothing or very little to do with FFB.Anyone can test this themselves with 100% to 20% and then vice versa (then take a look at the FFB graph). It also becomes dangerous when there are impacts or contact with opponents.

 

Hey, your file works great with a Moza R9! The only thing is that the wheel friction/resistance is a bit too high in the corners, what lines could be adjusted to lower that effect a little bit? Thanks!

EDIT: I switched from the 5-8Nm file to the 8-25Nm and it feels better now

 

What car and which Moza settings are you using?

In response to your edit:
I just got the R12 and it seems ok, but I went directly to the 25Nm file
It's supposed to be the more neutral, not trying to compensate for anything...

 

I could be wrong and someone with more knowledge can correct me but what I understand by far is:

Base Gain (or Strenght if you prefer) is a percentage of the Nominal Base Power or Nominal Base Torque (I really don't know and I suppose it doesn't matter in this case).

In-game Gain express how much of the Base Gain is transferred to the game.
Combining those two Gains you'll have the Final Gain witch naturally is also a percentage.

And the Final Gain equals Base Gain versus In-game Gain.

Setting up your Base at 100% you could be happy because you're "using" all the Wheel Base can offer.
Setting up In-game Gain at 20%, you'll effectively using 20% of that Base Gain or merely 20% of the Total of 100%.

It is evident that many combinations of Base versus In-game game gain will lead to the very same result.
And to a extreme, setting Base gain at 20% and In-game at 100% the resulting gain will also be 20%.

Conlusion is doesn't matter the individual gain setting of Base and Game but the combined gain.

Note that even if the wheel base isn't using the high forces it can deliver, if you set up them too high in some bases and specially the lesser powered one's, that forces will be still electrically available and generating internal forces to the motors (and internal gears) stressing the base without any exploitation.

So, an aditional conclusion is don't stress too much your base.

 

C

can I raise in game and lower the base side instead? Kinda to add to the gain conversation. If I have the game end lower than 100% wouldn’t I be getting less than the 17-18nm you’re saying? I figured both cut the max power as it averages out but I’m not totally certain how it all works.

 

Wow V300. I've been away for far to long.

 

The problem is clipping. Every stage should be clipping-free or else the signal gets squared/topped out, no matter what you do in the next stage.

Reiza has to ensure car-specific FFB is not clipping. Everything else is up to us.

This explains some factors:
Automobilista 2 V1.4 Force Feedback Overview & Recommendations

And yes, we can buy a 20Nm wheel but limit it to 10 or 15N not to get hurt. No game setting can unsure that. We will still get benefits from the overall system.

 

Hey Theo!
I'll try to explain it as simply as possible. Sorry for my English, it's not my native language. The gain in the game scales everything from the game and the custom file, the gain at the base is just the pure power of the base and that's why it's a very big difference. Not so much in terms of forces but even more so in terms of the FFB. Either you lose a lot of FFB or you get too much FFB (clipping) if you set the gain incorrectly in the game. Now in Ams2 there is a good sweet spot for gain in the game (60-65) to be able to use the full potential. Of course, this also depends on the Custom File, and this value is specific to my Customs Files. Other Reiza customs or defaults can have completely different values. If you have now set this value to 60-65 then you can adjust the gain on the base accordingly. This gain works very well with around 40-60 gain depending on the car and wheel and personal taste. That means you have forces of 10-15Nm, which should be enough for all cars. There is an easy way to test it yourself. Test the 100% and 20% gain and then vice versa with 20% and 100% gain in the game and in the base. Observe the FFB graph in the game and how different the curves and deflections will be. I hope I could help you a little

 

Yes, you should also remain realistic. What's the point of driving such cars with 20Nm of power? This is not realistic and makes no sense to me. The only place it makes sense is with go-karts. Increasing or decreasing the vehicle-specific FFB is not important to me and I don't need it because it can be bad for the FFB. It changes the gain in the game and therefore the whole FFB feedback. For me it is always at 100%, I only change the gain on the base depending on the car. Yes, you're right Reiza has a force feedback thread where you can learn and read a lot. However, in my opinion this is no longer current and should be revised. There are things that have changed a lot and no longer work the way they originally did.