Automobilista - How the FFB works and what is new about it

What cars you pick ?

 

What and where is this?

 

It's in the controller.ini file in the folder referenced above.

 

What's it do?

 

Enables an even higher resolution FFB mode than is available via the UI.

However, it may do nothing if the reports of FFB/controller frequency being limited to overall FPS frequency are true. If that is the case, then switching from 360 to 720 Hz would only matter for people with FPS above 360. Don't think that is too common or likely. But you can always try it and see if you think there is a difference. If it causes any problems or reduced performance, just put it back to the default of 1.

 

Unless something recently changed, the 720 Hz FFB when setting skip updates to 0 does not work (according to a Reiza rep). At best, if it does work, it's only for the FFB forces you get if you use any of the "+ effects" FFB settings ie. the original ISI FFB - what many people refer to as "canned" FFB (I hate that term since it's still connected to the car's physics/telemetry but that's another topic).

If something has changed though, I'd appreciate being informed/corrected.

 

G'day Dirk,
Did you manage to reduce the bumps? I'm relatively new to AMS though have been experimenting with the suggestions in this forum but yeah sometimes the track bumps are wild and I cannot find a solution. Is it suspension geometry or something else like bump intensity. I can't find any settings in the controller.ini to tweak. Any suggestions mate?

 

For anyone having issues with MaxForceAtSteeringRack use the realfeel controls (attached image) whilst driving to get a feel what's going on. Belt drive wheel try lowering the number (num7). Combine this with low force boost in AMS main control options window for ffb. Always good to start ffb gain at 50%
For DD try raising the number (num9). Take special note of the control keys used as mode keys.
You can even disable RFP (realfeelplugin) with the num2.

If you don't have a keypad try this program.

Experiment in game much easier. TBH I only just came across this so let me know if it works for you.

 

Just an update on this guys for DD wheel and possible belt drive also I was messing around with the formula retro and I changed the dampening value in realfeal from 11500 down to 500 and it was like magic! I also reduced smoothing to 3.
I have a sc2pro running at 50% torque. 30% damper. 8%friction and 10% inertia. All other settings default.
In game ffb running at 100% no low force boost.

Don't know why but this makes the retro cars feel amazing. Haven't tested on anything else yet.
Let me know your thoughts.
Cheers.

 

my keyboard does not have a Numpad. how do i change RFP settings in game? can the ctrl key be mapped to to other keys(no numpad)...?

 

You can use the settings in the garage set-up menu. This is not something you need to fiddle with much as very few (or possibly none) cars will be out of spec once you set the global levels. If you click Escape while driving, you can access those settings with your mouse.

 

wrong topic.
Sorry
deleted.

 

What fanatec firmware versions are you guys running?

 

any MOZA R9 owner here?
how do you set your in Game FFB or with the 3rd party tool mentioned above?

I want to go back to AMS1 just for fun in VR so seeking advice

 

I tried using my T818 with AMS again but at 1% strength it is just too much! Is realfeel causing problems with DD wheels?

 

The ffb strength slider does nothing in AMS1 when using a DD wheel, you have to edit the realfeel strength in realfeel.ini or change the strength in your wheel's software.

 

Any suggestions what it should be set to?

 

It is the maxforceatsteeringrack and normally varies per car, if you go down the file you'll see many different entries.

Some cars use a negative value, others positive. If in game the forces are inverted, set the ffb strength in game to the other, ie, if it says -100, but the forces are inverted, set it to a positive number. And vice versa. But the actual number (100) in game doesn't matter, change it with realfeel file per car, or in your wheel software.
The value in the realfeel file (-2500) gets stronger the less big the number! So -1250 is twice as strong as -2500 (odd I know)