Automobilista 2 Custom Force Feedback - Overview & Recommendations

Discussion in 'Automobilista 2 - General Discussion' started by Karsten Hvidberg, May 30, 2020.

  1. Fizzy

    Fizzy Well-Known Member AMS2 Club Member

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    Sure.

    In game:

    65/35/40/45 (occasionally I change these per car, but mostly just damping (power steering effect))

    On wheel:

    FEI 80
    Dri -2
    Sen Aut

    Everything else on wheel is default.
     
  2. Karsten Hvidberg

    Karsten Hvidberg Well-Known Member

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    @Dan Elyard,
    On a Csw you might need to go lower on the Lfb, possibly down to the 5-25 range.
     
  3. Raceracerace

    Raceracerace Active Member

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    Hi Drongo's. haha. Hi Karsten.

    - lets not forget a lot of people were driving round in cars without high downforce setups, they just tried to negate things - with this custom file (and in general with custom, now default more) the game makes it so you can use the f1 reiza at imola and feel the lift off when you drop the DRS system.

    As dev changes and paradigms shift glad the file is robust enough to endure. These settings do not 'replace default' so much as these settings help you better (as per the files and helpers instructions on the matter) make your wheel, a HQuality belt drive, more like a 'limp direct drive' with the pace of an attacking bass rift rather than an overly-limber and stretchy former gymnast.

    Guys, TX wheel and similar HQ belt drive wheels? Default needs to exist and gets iterative improvements. With this custom file you can scale and tweak higher 'customisation' of your specific wheel. I will show the values that should work since latest small patch. Default is now excellent and needs in built clipping for a variety of reasons, but customization because it can be specific, probably though its probably not exact same file, can be even better, as one may guess. And not as much clipping. Its not apples to apples, but I will show the settings to make a high quality belt drive blow you away - its a few extra settings DDrive development should not bog itself down with. In a comparative advantage kind of fashion. The tighter wheel will feel more real, the driving more aggressive, more AC-like but better, probably less clipping with higher forces as you only have to account for your specific wheel and yada yada lets get into it. But note its not miles beyond default as of last small update. Its preferential now rather than anything

    First off, default at 80 gain or 100 gain even for porsche gte does MOST if not all of this. Second, at 100 gain for f1 reiza for example the default file will do most of this (with clipping on gte at least), but not all in terms of that extra tightness but its so close (and its got to kinda feel like my steering wheel, which custom so did before minor patch update/after big patch update; tightness is paramount to the intrinsic driving feedback we do and on a direct drive one can get that better than on a belt like this high end belt TX base I will be going over) and to drive round Laguna on the custom then (like it is now) was hypnotic almost, and with gte/gt3 you could and still can on default (now since changes) and then on custom tackle the track with such aggression and verve, in the way you wanted to drive, like the Merc GT1 at Spa, really hammer the road like a panther or something it would surge and pounce, so cool, so I am currently using default to see and its very close, but latest updates make too many bumps. The custom is a lot smoother even though it also got more bumpy I think the default is more pointed, which is that aggressive attacking style of driving many want to do in a game, and the custom can be too but how its arranged here is more smooth/bendy rather than overly pointed.

    The whole process is iteration, and over time things become incorporated. Thus the quality of the custom and lately the default has always been/become apparent.

    My suggestion - use the default first and custom second - we don't get to see the contents of that default file, but with the above settings the default for porsche for example is superior/tighter more in line with AC, which is what most people drive anyway. The custom, virtually the same with my settings, is tighter in the center (or in different places on turns etc) but its exaggerated force where the real 'cream' of the change is (not that default is not fine), and reduction in LFB was needed to school-out the bumps in later iterations of the game.

    Then once you use the default, use a custom file like this. And decide which you like. This for me can be smoother, but its not exactly the same as default. I like it though, and it works for high downforce and low downforce.

    Overall result is very close but default is probably that little better and with what I was trying to go for - more attacking - which is much different to how it was last year where I had to drive defensively almost.

    * *** So kudos to all that! *** *

    On default AND CUSTOM you would leave gain at 100 perhaps and dampener at 100 and turn other things down to taste, to 50 and 50 I think is ideal. For f1 cars/high downforce its quite good. On GTE for example it is good. We will get at things with a scale.


    But I never tinkered with these custom files on purpose, until the latest game updates it did not need tightening in the center very much at all, and my suggestion would be to make it or default slightly "harder/crisper" for the belts in terms of downforce maybe. But default works for so many people now, across a wide preference, and in many intangible ways - that kind of turning softness/hardness is definitely better.

    IF you want to fiddle with the file, do it on musclefaktor updated. This has been the case since the .05 update to the 1.2 main update.


    Thus the settings in game for both custom and default and switching between them, are 100, 50, 50 100

    Too many bumps slaughter the belts, it does not have the fidelity, so better is the movement to aim for

    Default will do much the same as custom, but custom has a tighter center. Most notable on the high downforce cars.


    "Heads up for all tx -grade wheels (pssst... before we buy dd wheels in future... shhh)

    This is all settings to add for lower files, its chunky and rubbery, it grabs, it lets go, it bounces back always strong, its better than having it like a loose wheel. Its dynamic. Its a good file. Its probably closer to default than one thinks, but its ability is to customize that center combined with the other goodies in the custom file. Further explanation below.

    (limit_high_df 0.7) #Limits how stiff the steering becomes in high df cars. Range: 0.0-1.0. 0.0=most extreme high df possible, 1.0=limit high df as much as possible.

    If I was going to exaggerate the front end feel on high down force cars it would be minimal probably. And that value worked out to be 0.09.

    This works great actually now with all the changes. And default came a long way too. The fan car is going to join the rotation.

    But ultimately its not my thing to change files, its my thing to play the game. I am not needing to change any files or anything (just bring it in line).

    this comment is by no means me saying any change is necessary beyond of course that which we know will be changed like bugs

    --

    Other tx grade wheel settings. (this is csl elite etc, anything with a quality belt; adjust for taste but settings are for consistency, none of that 'where's my bumps' nonsense - they're there, gain 90-100 [I use 100 with clipping as per below], lfb 80, fx 65, dampen 80)

    search a term in ffb_custom

    rack tighten 0.1 to 1.0 (tx wheel seems 1.0) // <- tighter wheels are better to experience the rubber, the center being firm is one of the major benefits of altering the file
    tighten falloff 0.3-0.9 (tx wheel, using 0.5 but note the tightness you want, latest version of game updates faster it seems the center values, higher fidelity, but this all no longer does as it did several days ago; the default file seems to govern this really good now) Will alleviate any funny business with above, the difference gives a nice little progressive feel but be sure you like the gap you make. .9 seems no troubles and how it was largely pre 0.05 game update [1.2 was fine]
    exaggerate front load feel 0.64 // <- Could be the most impactful change you make
    exaggerate front load feel DF 0.09 // <- You could always not use this
    flat spots 0.07 // <- this is very cool to have back and make use of the extra smooth turns now
    (limit_high_df 0.7) There is room in the turning to have this on again. 1.0 is the default, .7 is an increase. And it is worth it on a tx wheel at least. It really does stiffen up that steering and makes it pin point-accuracy for you
    (Center_relax 0.3) # this was actually 0.1 or something, and your wheel may vary, but if things get too jittery this setting could provide relief. The tightness of the center as to the control of steering, being what was lacking but would have been set up in default from reiza should be the highest priority. Use this to help out in small increments. Prior to .05 patch, extra sensitivity added maybe, this was not used
    (Center full 0.1) this is for old 4.5 files but on new musclefaktor you do not need to change this setting usually for a belt. was 0.2 but this will reduce knocks seemingly.

    The game file after the update is unfortunately too jittery for minute bumps, but the above should do enough

    On low down force, like gte, the steering functions really well, owing to the front wheel exageration of 0.44 and you may wish to increase or decrease that. As the game goes on, we don't know, it may become not as warranted to use as things adjust in the model.

    - Now, importantly - IF you think gees man why would you do that (high DF load) as in you think the downforce is enough resistance like I have done then take limit_high_down force up to 1.0 to return it to how it was. I can in fact drive with 32 or 40 DF, so its not a big deal. If you want more, remember 0.3 is a good level and closer to 0 means higher [its a limiter/less limiting]

    The latest patch means you must close down the game now to change values it would seem.


    - Just on that - restart session and have a go. Realize as you turn and back off your turn and speed you can feel the change in resistance as in less air pushing.

    Maybe the default does a lot like this, but I assume this above makes it outside the range a little with things like ARB feel etc, a 14 becomes 15 for example, or some such. The game would soon lose its reference point with daily changes and I do not change these files much myself. No need. But these little extra's make a lot of difference. It gives a TX wheel base that little nudge if other forces are overwhelming this prior - then all these things are emphasized a little bit more on-demand. Its good. Still smooth, still consistent.

    camera>configuration ---- > on, 35-60 (I use 35 and above for more bumps and risk/reward), yes, 40, yes, no, 20, 75, 75 (75's you can change them if you like) If you induce you know - vomiting or something or you use VR, then don't use them. Some of you like lap times more (so many bumps I suck), and I can respect that.

    If I am not mistaken then applying the rack settings in the original Musclefaktor file and not the update will give a smoother drivein terms of bumps you may or may not feel your wheel is good at with detail, etc. Its up to you. To save simply editing and turning them down. Its a good baseline the former file.

    In any event you will want your steering deadzone at 0, your throttle sensitivity probably 30, brake 35 or something similar.



    - So what cars highlight this file best?

    All of them. But in particular. F1 reiza at laguna seca, smooth and sweeping, hypnotizing, rugged and rough. Porsche at Nords 24 hour. Hoooowwwlly cra8p. Anything at Londrina and Brands Hatch, and Corvette with fitting/flighty and squatting setup at Virginia. Notably as well, the Merc GT1 at Spa. Get ready to tear that thing up, such aggression. (Just think guys, 6 Nm is about 44% as per the line, of a semi decent d-drive) I did nt pull these number out my...

    No clipping unless extreme circumstance such as a crash and spin, lots of feel. Great work remember to take breaks early - and often.
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2021
  4. Dan Elyard

    Dan Elyard New Member

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    Great thanks when you say everything else on the wheel is default are you still running full spring and damper? Or are they both off?
     
  5. Stakanov

    Stakanov Well-Known Member AMS2 Club Member

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    Guys I continue to have excellent sensations in the use of this last file … when it is final I will publish currently settings … I am undecided only on which to value but surely this will be the range for my G920 or Logitech base:
    GAIN 90-100
    LFB 70-80
    FX 65-55
    DP 65-55
     
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  6. Dan Elyard

    Dan Elyard New Member

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    Hi I am so very confused, all the fx people are talking about like tyre flex scrubbing I just don’t feel at all. I have tried all the recommended settings, I have lowered lfb down to 5 and then increased by 2 each time till I hit 30 and it just feels worse. I have also tried increasing FX in the file for example “scrub_scale” I put this up to 2.0 and with huge slides still feels smooth as glass. Same thing with flat spots they don’t come through at all even if increased.

    At the moment I’m using muscleFuktor updated with no edits
    65
    24
    40
    45

    On wheel
    Aut
    Ffb 100
    Dri -2
    Fei 80
    For 100
    Spr off
    Dpr off
     
  7. Karsten Hvidberg

    Karsten Hvidberg Well-Known Member

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    That sounds really weird.
    Maybe somehow the file is not copied correctly or custom is not selected?
     
  8. Dan Elyard

    Dan Elyard New Member

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    I’ve had this with all the 4. files I think. The only success I’ve had is with 3.1
     
  9. Raceracerace

    Raceracerace Active Member

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    this'll be good
     
  10. Fizzy

    Fizzy Well-Known Member AMS2 Club Member

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    I’d suggest deleting / renaming the ams2 folder in documents. It’s a bit of a pain, but it’s worked for me a few times. You can keep the graphicsconfig and custom ffb file (& triple screen if you have it).
     
  11. Marnus Zwarts

    Marnus Zwarts Boost Creep AMS2 Club Member

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    Try FX 65 and FEI 100
     
  12. Sunscreen

    Sunscreen Active Member

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    Hey Stakanov, are you using Karstens FFB or something else? Im a G920 user also looking for that magical G920 custom file..
     
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  13. Raceracerace

    Raceracerace Active Member

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    Mate the community now only cares about itself.

    It is, use the settings found in my post prior to this one as a baseline and later tweak from there.

    The result of that file would have caused ecstacy months ago, now they're all bitter and washed up. The game is only beginning though. 600 concurrent users is only the start. Essentially what happened to a lot of them was all the criticism. I basically proved it on here too. They couldn't take it.

    They're at a loss. They're not usually like that.
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2021
  14. Stakanov

    Stakanov Well-Known Member AMS2 Club Member

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    Yes last Karsten FFB … at this moment I'm finishing tuning the file for Logitech ... if today I go home by tonight I'll post it ... otherwise tomorrow ... in the meantime you can easily use standard Karsten's using the settings I indicated above (100-80-60-60) ;)
    Then, as soon as the others publish your file, it you will have a wide choice because not only me, but also Kuku, Peter and others, will publish his for Lowend with different shades according to your tastes ... so you will be spoiled for choice :)
     
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  15. Sunscreen

    Sunscreen Active Member

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    Sweet. Thanks dude :)
     
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  16. inthebagbud

    inthebagbud Active Member AMS2 Club Member

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    @Karsten Hvidberg - this is my take on the rFuktor 4.5 - exp2 - Momentum Rack 6.1 for a DD2 with a higher scrub scale, change to over/understeer and tyre flex setting. There is a change to the accel/brake feel but not sure if that registers with DD2

    in game - will be car dependant - currently used with lower spec cars

    Gain - 30
    LFB - 20
    FX - 25
    Damping - 10

    Wheel

    FF - 80
    LIN - Off
    NDP - 40
    NFR - 20
    NIN - 6
    INT - 3
    FEI - 100
    Rest - 100

    I have added settings to file as well for reference
     

    Attached Files:

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  17. Raceracerace

    Raceracerace Active Member

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    Hey people,

    reasonings for changes and why a hq belt person can probably rely on not just the values maybe but their scaling derived from the process here, in line with prior instructions on the values.

    - the reasoning here is sound but the updated file is the one to get. If you learn or value a before/after kind of thing to better understand a future endeavor with your file changes this is probably at least worth a skim or more.

    - basically curbs at Spa were not really impactful anymore or at all by comparison, so now when you knock against them, spa 93 curbs will give the car a good old kick. Run over a curb somewhere at a track and it will unseat the steering and the driving in some way to some degree of intensity. This lead me to changing file values - but having followed the file I already knew I didn't need to change much at all. Or coming out of the hairpin onto the straight, now it has a guttural gnashing and thrashing of the tires as they spring into action and power forward, its really satisfying.

    - hopefully your oscillation is more in line with a car jittering its rack and collumn about or whatever, if its too much, somehow, don't worry, you can correct it. Hopefully the forces are not so prominent as to seem out of place, at 180-250km's, that it feels like a fast paced roadway to you.

    - apologies that flat spots are not turned on if you want them, its 0.07 being barely a problem but known to 1.0, but just for gameplay I would keep it on the lower side as the consequences still exist and would need to be dealt with.

    - lets not forget a lot of people were driving round in cars without high downforce setups, they just tried to negate things - with this custom file (and in general with custom, now default more) the game makes it so you can use the f1 reiza at imola and feel the lift off when you drop the DRS system.

    As dev changes and paradigms shift glad the file is robust enough to endure. These settings do not 'replace default' so much as these settings help you better (as per the files and helpers instructions on the matter) make your wheel, a HQuality belt drive, more like a 'limp direct drive' with the pace of an attacking bass rift rather than an overly-limber and stretchy former gymnast.

    Guys, TX wheel and similar HQ belt drive wheels? Default needs to exist and gets iterative improvements. With this custom file you can scale and tweak higher 'customisation' of your specific wheel. I will show the values that should work since latest small patch. Default is now excellent and needs in built clipping for a variety of reasons, but customization because it can be specific, probably though its probably not exact same file, can be even better, as one may guess. And not as much clipping. Its not apples to apples, but I will show the settings to make a high quality belt drive blow you away - its a few extra settings DDrive development should not bog itself down with. In a comparative advantage kind of fashion. The tighter wheel will feel more real, the driving more aggressive, more AC-like but better, probably less clipping with higher forces as you only have to account for your specific wheel and yada yada lets get into it. But note its not miles beyond default as of last small update. Its preferential now rather than anything

    First off, default at 80 gain or 100 gain even for porsche gte does MOST if not all of this. Second, at 100 gain for f1 reiza for example the default file will do most of this (with clipping on gte at least), but not all in terms of that extra tightness but its so close (and its got to kinda feel like my steering wheel, which custom so did before minor patch update/after big patch update; tightness is paramount to the intrinsic driving feedback we do and on a direct drive one can get that better than on a belt like this high end belt TX base I will be going over) and to drive round Laguna on the custom then (like it is now) was hypnotic almost, and with gte/gt3 you could and still can on default (now since changes) and then on custom tackle the track with such aggression and verve, in the way you wanted to drive, like the Merc GT1 at Spa, really hammer the road like a panther or something it would surge and pounce, so cool, so I am currently using default to see and its very close, but latest updates make too many bumps. The custom is a lot smoother even though it also got more bumpy I think the default is more pointed, which is that aggressive attacking style of driving many want to do in a game, and the custom can be too but how its arranged here is more smooth/bendy rather than overly pointed.

    The whole process is iteration, and over time things become incorporated. Thus the quality of the custom and lately the default has always been/become apparent.

    My suggestion - use the default first and custom second - we don't get to see the contents of that default file, but with the above settings the default for porsche for example is superior/tighter more in line with AC, which is what most people drive anyway. The custom, virtually the same with my settings, is tighter in the center (or in different places on turns etc) but its exaggerated force where the real 'cream' of the change is (not that default is not fine), and reduction in LFB was needed to school-out the bumps in later iterations of the game.

    Then once you use the default, use a custom file like this. And decide which you like. This for me can be smoother, but its not exactly the same as default. I like it though, and it works for high downforce and low downforce.

    Overall result is very close but default is probably that little better and with what I was trying to go for - more attacking - which is much different to how it was last year where I had to drive defensively almost.

    * *** So kudos to all that! *** *

    On default AND CUSTOM you would leave gain at 100 perhaps and dampener at 100 and turn other things down to taste, to 50 and 50 I think is ideal. For f1 cars/high downforce its quite good. On GTE for example it is good. We will get at things with a scale.


    But I never tinkered with these custom files on purpose, until the latest game updates it did not need tightening in the center very much at all, and my suggestion would be to make it or default slightly "harder/crisper" for the belts in terms of downforce maybe. But default works for so many people now, across a wide preference, and in many intangible ways - that kind of turning softness/hardness is definitely better.

    IF you want to fiddle with the file, do it on musclefaktor updated. This has been the case since the .05 update to the 1.2 main update.


    Thus the settings in game for both custom and default and switching between them, are 100, 50, 50 100.....but if you are just using the custom file I have below, you can do
    > 95, 80 lfb, 65 fx, 80 dampener

    Too many bumps slaughter the belts, it does not have the fidelity, so better is the movement to aim for

    Default will do much the same as custom, but custom has a tighter center. Most notable on the high downforce cars.


    "Heads up for all tx -grade wheels (pssst... before we buy dd wheels in future... shhh)

    This is all settings to add for lower files, its chunky and rubbery, it grabs, it lets go, it bounces back always strong, its better than having it like a loose wheel. Its dynamic. Its a good file. Its probably closer to default than one thinks, but its ability is to customize that center combined with the other goodies in the custom file. Further explanation below.

    (limit_high_df 0.7) #Limits how stiff the steering becomes in high df cars. Range: 0.0-1.0. 0.0=most extreme high df possible, 1.0=limit high df as much as possible.

    If I was going to exaggerate the front end feel on high down force cars it would be minimal probably. And that value worked out to be 0.09.

    This works great actually now with all the changes. And default came a long way too. The fan car is going to join the rotation.

    But ultimately its not my thing to change files, its my thing to play the game. I am not needing to change any files or anything (just bring it in line).

    this comment is by no means me saying any change is necessary beyond of course that which we know will be changed like bugs

    --

    Other tx grade wheel settings. (this is csl elite etc, anything with a quality belt; adjust for taste but settings are for consistency, none of that 'where's my bumps' nonsense - they're there, gain 90-100 [I use 100 with clipping as per below], lfb 80, fx 65, dampen 80)

    search a term in ffb_custom

    rack tighten 0.1 to 1.0 (tx wheel seems 1.0) // <- tighter wheels are better to experience the rubber, the center being firm is one of the major benefits of altering the file
    tighten falloff 0.3-0.9 (tx wheel, using 0.5 but note the tightness you want, latest version of game updates faster it seems the center values, higher fidelity, but this all no longer does as it did several days ago; the default file seems to govern this really good now) Will alleviate any funny business with above, the difference gives a nice little progressive feel but be sure you like the gap you make. .9 seems no troubles and how it was largely pre 0.05 game update [1.2 was fine]
    exaggerate front load feel 0.64 // <- Could be the most impactful change you make
    exaggerate front load feel DF 0.09 // <- You could always not use this
    flat spots 0.07 // <- this is very cool to have back and make use of the extra smooth turns now
    (limit_high_df 0.7) There is room in the turning to have this on again. 1.0 is the default, .7 is an increase. And it is worth it on a tx wheel at least. It really does stiffen up that steering and makes it pin point-accuracy for you
    (Center_relax 0.3) # this was actually 0.1 or something, and your wheel may vary, but if things get too jittery this setting could provide relief. The tightness of the center as to the control of steering, being what was lacking but would have been set up in default from reiza should be the highest priority. Use this to help out in small increments. Prior to .05 patch, extra sensitivity added maybe, this was not used
    (Center full 0.1) this is for old 4.5 files but on new musclefaktor you do not need to change this setting usually for a belt. was 0.2 but this will reduce knocks seemingly.

    The game file after the update is unfortunately too jittery for minute bumps, but the above should do enough

    On low down force, like gte, the steering functions really well, owing to the front wheel exageration of 0.44 and you may wish to increase or decrease that. As the game goes on, we don't know, it may become not as warranted to use as things adjust in the model.

    - Now, importantly - IF you think gees man why would you do that (high DF load) as in you think the downforce is enough resistance like I have done then take limit_high_down force up to 1.0 to return it to how it was. I can in fact drive with 32 or 40 DF, so its not a big deal. If you want more, remember 0.3 is a good level and closer to 0 means higher [its a limiter/less limiting]

    The latest patch means you must close down the game now to change values it would seem.


    - Just on that - restart session and have a go. Realize as you turn and back off your turn and speed you can feel the change in resistance as in less air pushing.

    Maybe the default does a lot like this, but I assume this above makes it outside the range a little with things like ARB feel etc, a 14 becomes 15 for example, or some such. The game would soon lose its reference point with daily changes and I do not change these files much myself. No need. But these little extra's make a lot of difference. It gives a TX wheel base that little nudge if other forces are overwhelming this prior - then all these things are emphasized a little bit more on-demand. Its good. Still smooth, still consistent.

    camera>configuration ---- > on, 35-60 (I use 35 and above for more bumps and risk/reward), yes, 40, yes, no, 20, 75, 75 (75's you can change them if you like) If you induce you know - vomiting or something or you use VR, then don't use them. Some of you like lap times more (so many bumps I suck), and I can respect that.

    If I am not mistaken then applying the rack settings in the original Musclefaktor file and not the update will give a smoother drivein terms of bumps you may or may not feel your wheel is good at with detail, etc. Its up to you. To save simply editing and turning them down. Its a good baseline the former file.

    In any event you will want your steering deadzone at 0, your throttle sensitivity probably 30, brake 35 or something similar.



    - So what cars highlight this file best?

    All of them. But in particular. F1 reiza at laguna seca (drop 3 ARB from front and one more than that for imola (4) it seems, smooth and sweeping, hypnotizing, rugged and rough. Porsche at Nords 24 hour. Hoooowwwlly cra8p. Anything at Londrina and Brands Hatch, and Corvette with fitting/flighty and squatting setup at Virginia. Notably as well, the Merc GT1 at Spa. Get ready to tear that thing up, such aggression. (Just think guys, 6 Nm is about 44% as per the line, of a semi decent d-drive) I did nt pull these number out my...

    No clipping unless extreme circumstance such as a crash and spin, lots of feel. Great work remember to take breaks early - and often.

    - failing all that, you should rename or remove the file, have the game regenerate its own custom file the next time you load it and try that, it is very much similar. And you may find it preferable if you appreciate movement/speed weighted turning when things are slow. The custom file here is very good, but it may or may not be 'cheating'.
     

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  18. Raceracerace

    Raceracerace Active Member

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    For the belts. This is an updated file, it could well provide with the latest minor patch, less notching in the center because it is my assumption the game has updated the way it does things for more fidelity round there. You will note this is tighter than what we had prior to 1.2, but you will also note that it is similar to the games own custom file which is generated in leiu of this file being present at all (and any custom file, you would delete so the game's one is regenerated).

    The main change is the center feel, yes but also some added downforce for high DF cars, but with a sedan, it has exageration so as to feel the front just a little bit better.

    I did turn on tyre flat spotting, so be aware its very minor (and you can easily edit the file to turn it off)

    I felt it encouraged that 'smooth' lapping and pushed me to race lines even better. You can be very attacking with this file, its perhaps too good I do not know the exact difference with default-custom by the game, that file probably works better with the game's more detailed movements.

    The other main reason I like Karstens + people who added to it is the smoothness in the track and turning - it keeps things more linear but there's still bumps. And you still get a big wollop at a curb.

    If I was using a DD, I would probably not be altering so much.

    I quite like this smootheness and 'push through', both files are very interesting. But these changes while not necessary to any one, you may find them preferencial if you have a belt and do not have a tight center currently that allows this kind of smoothness in turning.

    It may be cheating and I do not believe it recreates every single force or the scale of force the base game does (its a different rack afterall), but it is also very satisfying

    I am using 95-100, 80 lfb, 65 fx, 80 dampener, or somewhere in between. As per Stakanov highlighting this previous to the patch.

    So a lot of those forces etc as we see over time are able to be dialed down and other 'forces' or sensations I guess grow up around the existing. I thinkn now when I was using 100, 80, 65, 80, this is what I mean, use the bolded ones perhaps to start and maybe tinker; but the reason I mention is that I don't noticed any kind of loss of detail that actually helps me make driving decisions if that makes sense. Its always nice with even more bumps, but too much can unsettle the driving imo. Such is why the file is like this, oh there's still bumps. After the minor patch maybe less higher speed shake/off-kilter movement so its different, but shines in the turning.

    Its like it is to be progressive for turning and I find it is very accurate. Which is why I say almost cheating because not a lot unseats this haha. See the difference between sedans and f1's high df, but do not forget this is a belt driven wheel, its only going to be doing so much - but these days yeah if you let this 'tighter' swing of the wheel hit your finger it will hurt it a little. So things have come a ways. Yeah if you're pushing in a race situation thats where this file is so juicy. Its not exactly a competitive advantage.
     

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  19. Richard appleyard

    Richard appleyard AKA Neworder

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    this file on my t500rs feels very good tbh thanks
     
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  20. Raceracerace

    Raceracerace Active Member

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    that is so awesome. I am glad it can transfer.

    just remember you can adjust the center, you may like .7 for top (1.0) and then .6 for fall off

    The nord/s 24 hour track with the porsche or even a gt3, you can really pin-point and hit it. This was impossible prior to 1.2...eg you are overtaking or fast-twitch turning the car down the s-bend at the bottom of the hill... and you want to go pass another car - you can jam it to go straight on the inside and beat him... I was wondering prior to this how to make it drive aggressively. And it turns out for my belt drive that this file was the answer.
     

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