Automobilista 2 Custom Force Feedback - Overview & Recommendations

(Forgive me if you already know this) The damper setting in these new (Rfuktor) files acts as a 'power steering' setting. This means the higher you have 'damping' set, the easier the car will feel to turn. If you want heavier max forces when turning, lower the damper setting. This can / should be balanced with overall gain. This new use of the damper setting makes it vey easy to find the right 'weight' for each user's preference. Personal taste is a huge part of the equation, but finding the right strength should be fairly easy this way.

Again, you probably already know this, so forgive me if you do, but the way you test the settings will have an impact. In different game modes, some cars start with colder tyres on a 'green' track (no tyre rubber previously deposited). I haven't tried the GT1 with the latest file, so I can't specifically comment on that car.

Hope this is helpful...

EDIT: Sorry, I just read your post again and I see you tried damping 0, so you can probably ignore what I wrote above. I'll leave the post standing in case it is useful to anyone else.

 

I’m not sure if there’s an overall gain setting in your wheel software that can be increased or not as a first option.

but otherwise you could increase master rack and reduce static force reduction perhaps.

 

Ray and Kuku, thank you. Anything that comes my way in terms of advice or information is useful and gratefully received.

I’ve been testing more cars since my post and some, such as the Puma GTE and Caterham Superlight, are an absolute joy with the settings I currently have. My inexperience with certain cars may be an over riding factor providing an unrealistic expectation.

From what Karsten and others have posted I suppose each car will require gentle tinkering with the damping settings to get it to where I feel it best, it’s a setting I didn’t previously understand but now it seems simplified to be become a form of power steering I should be able to make the most of it.

I’m also reading between the lines, as neither of you appear shocked at my Gain setting, that this is very much a personal and subjective setting?

I’ll have a look in my wheel settings for an overall gain setting, my concern with having it too high was risking long term damage....as well as giving myself a ridiculously unrealistic feel!

 

there is a overall lighter upper strength to this file, as in testing I was able to actually run 100 gain with higher power steering ( Damper) , normally that would be impossible for me, but many of us are using gain values in the 55-70 range with 50 power steering despite being on vastly different wheels. I find the weight very manageable but full throughout the range, with only extreme loads requiring some strong hands. In my opinion if you have to aggressively manhandle the wheel to get it where you want, it’s probably over the top strength.

 

@OMiT

I just tried the GT1 Merc and the MCR2000 at Nords with damper / power steering set to 0. Other settings were 70/40/55. Both cars with stock settings.

I think the GT1 feels a little on the light side in comparison / relation to the MCR, but a few clicks of per car FFB gain sorted that out. (110% of 70 = 77, so about where you set yours). Bear in mind there's a fairly hefty spoiler on the MCR, so high downforce corners will require fairly strong inputs. I've never driven anything like either of these cars in real life, but they feel about right to me in relation to each other (just going from their stats, and my downforce estimation).

Both these cars I would say should have low damper (power steering) settings, they both should feel pretty heavy in high downforce scenarios I think (I am not an expert, just my speculation). I think that changing damper / power steering when switching vehicles is now more useful than changing gain with these new files. Unfortunately this means the per car FFB setting that could be done on the fly is now less useful.

I don't know if this helps you at all, it's really hard to know what's going on / what your expectations are etc. Other possible avenues of investigation I would suggest: Maybe deleting the AMS2 folder (this has helped me in the past when things started feeling strange -just keep your graphics & ffb files). Fanatec driver (mine is 402. FW is 684).

Edit: Just another thought... probably not useful, but might be worth mentioning: My wheel is the PS4 version.

Edit 2: I think I may end up setting overall gain at about 75.

 

I’ll look into my Fanatec drivers later today, I really should do some work, but I believe they’re up to date but exactly which ones they are I don’t know.

I actually think that I may be best served, particularly with my level of experience, using settings that are at least akin to those you’ve found for the CSL (we’re both using the PS4 version.) I suspect it may be more to do with me than the file and having higher gain is actually hindering me without me necessarily being aware of this.

I’ve been testing more with the settings you posted and even after ten or so laps am finding that I’m beginning to understand the feel and movement more. I’ve shaved off several tenths consistently around Bathurst in the MCR, one of my favourite combinations, and wonder if getting used to a lighter load through the wheel may be ‘better.’ I don’t feel I have the experience to say realistic but ‘better’ is generic enough for my point. Small changes to fit my preferences can come as and when I feel I’ve actually got some better understanding.

I’ve got a lot of experience yet to gain so I’m more than happy to adjust my settings and learn rather than try to continue with what may be poor judgement and never fully understand the forces coming through the wheel.

I very much appreciate the help from you both.

 

I think this might have been a flat-spot, just like @GTR886 was wondering about a similar "issue"

 

We(@Shadak, @Panos Schoino & myself) plan to have a small online session this evening at GTM + 1. Lobby name will be "rFuktor" something. It will be quali & race on 2 undecided car/track combos, so straight on.
Would be fun if some of you all are able to join in! Posting more a bit later.

 

Anyone care to share their TrueDrive settings for the SC2 Pro or Ultimate?

 

Overall strength: 100%
Bumpstop 900 deg

Force recon filter: 2
Torque bandwidthlimit: 2200 hz

Damping: Off
Friction: Off
Inertia: Off
Static force reduction: Off
Slew rate limit: Off
Ultra low latency mode: 16% (not sure what is best, didn't actually play much with it, might as well just have it off, I think)
Peaking/notch: Filter disabled

 

sorry but this file is also good for Fanatec CSW 2.5? I read in the title G920 .....

 

Post 1 is for modded files.
Post 2 has the latest rfuktor 3.1 in high end version only. That should work extremely well on csw 2.5, yes.

 

We have the rfuktor lobby online right now so will start some random racing around 8pm CET if anyone wants to join. P3 cars for now.

 

I finally got around to trying Peters tuning and as usual it’s very good . And will be a good base to tweak from for me.

the added front loading seems to give some extra accuracy to pointing nose in .

I’m playing around with yaw force’s to relax and tame high torque cars like the v8 supercar from lurching under acceleration.

 

I have a couple of questions.
What is the idea behind upping the Gain just to up the power steering to make it light again? I haven't tried it, but was wondering why it is done as opposed to lowering both?
Is it just me, or does it seem like the wheel pulls to the outside of the kerb instead of pushing you back on track?
How would I reduce the understeering feeling. There seems to me to be so much of it.
Anyway, this file feels pretty damn good. Thanks guys for continuing on with this. Look forward to what comes next.

 

Powersteering evens out the torque across steering angle (degree). At lowest damping slider, the torque at initial tyre loading is relatively small but at edge of grip gets noticeable harder. Without increasing speed I think thats a bit unrealistic and like only a small amount of difference of torque between steering angles (degrees), in my case thats 50 but since the gain is then slightly reduced, I would increase the gain slider a bit.

Hmm I think when you hit a curb with right suspension, the lift of right side should make your steering wheel go left a bit to simulate that. But there might also be something else in the engine pulling you out, i cant recall 100% now.

Understeer has its value in the txt file.

 

So I am finally ready to upload my CSL Elite tweaked file...

The changes I have made are pretty subtle, but they work for me.

I have:

• Increased master_rack slightly
• Decrreased master_road slightly
• Increased master_effects slightly
• Decreased kerbs_surface_scale slightly
• Increased kerb_bump scale slightly
• Decreased large_offroad_bemp_scale slightly

In game I am using

• Gain 73
• LFB 45
• FX 55
• Power steering ~50 (I change this between cars)

@Karsten Hvidberg: Previously I mentioned the feeling of marbles under braking and you suggested changing the scrub effect. I actually realised the issue was due to my FX slider being too high -I spoke too soon, and this issue is now resolved for me with no tweaking needed.

@OMiT Previosly we were exchanging posts about the RF default file, but I had not realised I was speaking about my tweaked file. So you may find this version better for you (or maybe not ).

I hope this is of use to someone, and again, thanks to all those giants who's shoulders I am standing on here, especially Karsten. The RF files are just brilliant. Amazing work.

EDIT: I think it is important to set 'dri' to '2' on the Fanatec wheel settings.

 

I’ve shamelessly stolen all of your settings Ray. I’m still getting used to using far less gain than I previously had but the level of detail that’s coming through the wheel is superb.

Thank you Ray, and of course thank you Karsten and the team.

 

Thanks a lot for this. Looking forward to giving it a try later. Upgraded to the CSW 2.5 from the CSL Elite last night, but from about half an hour of play, it seems my previous values can stay pretty much the same with this magic file. All the values look a little higher than I’d usually run, though - is this the reason for the “Dri” being set to to 2? I’d normally be at around -2.

 

From my understanding, negative dri numbers act as a damper, a setting of 2 is the least damping. It’s obviously a confusing naming / scaling convention, so I would suggest just trying different values. The good thing is that with these wheels, you can change it whilst driving, so it’s really easy to test. All this stuff is personal, so you may end up with a different conclusion, to me, negative values feel mushy. HTH