Automobilista 2 Custom Force Feedback - Overview & Recommendations

@Stakanov haha dude! you're too kind. will try this out over the weekend.

the file that, GearNazi posted a few pages back in this thread which is as you said his tweak of a tweak is basically perfect for me. If you were to try that file with basically just Gain at around 70 0 LFB or Damping and FX to taste you would have a good sense of what.

Anyway the this is very much appreciated, I look forward to trying it out and hopefully being able to provide somewhat more useful feedback.

 

Hey thanks for the reply.
I've already spoken to T3k and he's doing AMS 2 next for the settings, I've already asked everyone in the official Simagic discord and Wolf refuses to even help lol (he's got an M10 not a mini, and I'm not kidding I've asked him 3 different times for his settings). There's literally nothing I can do in Alpha Manager to help fix the oscillations, I've tried every single setting in Alpha manager and AMS 2. It's just AMS 2 at this point cuz literally every other sim works perfectly. I guess my best hope is waiting for you to get yours and then copy Ur settings, and we can also see if this does the same thing with someone else's Mini. IDK

 

@Karsten Hvidberg hi again, Camaro drifter here with the full lock issue . So let me start by saying that the latest high end file is literally perfection for racing under and on the limit. I've recently got my CSL DD, running very raw, default wheelbase setting, with 75 in-game gain, everything else on 0. Everything can be felt perfectly, I can literally slide around GT cars and all. BUT, the full lock issue is still there unfortunately, just like it was with my CSL Elite. Same problem, car has for ex. 900 lock, I force a spin-out and let the wheel go to self align. It starts spinning normally and it just stops at 720. I can only force it over by hand to reach 900. I stopped the car completely to see how it feels when I try to manually turn the wheel to full 900 lock, and I actually noticed that soft lock comes up much earlier than full lock, just above 720 or so. So I thought its purely a soft lock issue, edited the file, set custom_lock_stop variable at the end to 0 to disable the custom lock stop. Tried turning the wheel again while the car was stationary and the lock stop issue was fixed, soft lock was only activated when I reached full 900 degrees. All cool, so I gave it a spin at a kart track, and started forcing some spin-outs. let the wheel go, self-aligning stopped at 720 degrees again. This happens with every car, regardless how much full lock they have, self aligning stops at about the same position where your custom lock stop activates.
Let me know if I can help reproduce the issue somehow. Keep up the great work!

 

Hey Oka, aka Camaro drifter,

I never really bothered too much about the custom lock stuff. From your description are you saying that even disabling custom lock stop, it still performs some wrong lock stop on karts?

As I am extremely busy these days, I hope maybe one of the guys in here is able to look at fixing this part?

Best,

-K

 

Yep, even with the custom lock stop disabled, self aligning stops at about the same point where the custom lock stops were active. Not just on karts, all the other cars too. The best way I can describe it is as if the caster of the car suddenly disappeared. No mechanical trail at all.

 

Ahhh, that might be the case actually, that the influence of the trail is what kills it. I will try to find time a day soon to modify it slightly.
Can you confirm if the EasterFuctor file does not exhibit the issue?

 

I couldn't find an easterfuktor file in the main post, but I found one in one of the replies. I tried it and it has the same issue.

 

Great to see you back @Karsten Hvidberg.

 

Hey @Fizzy ,

My available time has diminished to 0 time, unf...
It is slightly annoying with the 2 known issues(lock stop & Monza 10k), but much more important that it is being tuned/modded to many different wheel bases and likings, so it is good to follow the tunes & improvements many people have been bringing and are still bringing.

Best,

-K

 

Nice to see you , we understand you are busy, until monza things where very settled, and felt like the peak had been reached anyway,and you should be free to get on with life, I’ve been short of time of late too and will only become more short as I head into summer.
I think the monza thing is 50/50.
50% is a parameter that gets stepped over in the caster, when bottoming out and 50% is something very weird about the track mesh of monza oval.
for some reason the high side wants to pull the car left up the banking while the right hand wheel wants to follow the slope down to the right.
it happens even at walking pace, so it’s very unnatural and is something that shouldn’t happen, so I don’t really consider it a fault of the file.

 

I've got an alpha mini with the gt1-r wheel and am using the default FFB. I haven't had any oscillation issues. I'm still tweaking them, but I raced last night in the formula vintage and the FFB felt pretty damn good. Able to catch slides, and plenty of detail.

Give this a go;
Alpha manager settings
Total Force - 80
Smoothing - 3
Inertia - 5
Damping - 15
Friction - 10
Suspension- 1
Rotation - 900
AMS2
force - 70
lfb - 0
fx - 35
Damping - 10

 

Hey man, was my pet peeve as well. Reduce this:

(kerb_bump_scale 2.65 -> 1.8)
Stops the severe kerb shaking, but still noticeable enough
(large_track_bump_scale 0.25 -> 0.05 or 0.01)
Now those severe bumps and shakes on straights are severely reduced but very much still enough.

I'm a huge fan of the Reiza FFB brake feel, where the ffb gets heavier under breaking, and therefore I changed this:

(brake_feel 1.80 -> to 6.0)
Gives a nice tightening under braking

Hope it helps

Edit: Grammar and spelling

 

—disregard

 

deleted

 

Just tested a bit, feels a lot lighter than earlier versions, but that may in part be due to the latest Fanatec wheel base firmware...
But promising, will test more this coming weekend

 

will probably require higher gain values as i’ve pretty much maxed out the t300 . but that in part is because it’s running standard high end file static force reduction.

 

Is it better to have the ffb in game at 100 and adjust your wheel ffb strength lower, or to have the wheel set at 100 and lower the in game ffb strength? I read somewhere one or the other might reduce your chances of clipping.

 

I do use default at Control Panel for my TM TX, except for spring and damper both zeroed.

Follow this routine to adjust ingame slides, both for standard or custom FFB: (1) everything = 0; (2) adjust Gain just before any clipping at telemetry hud; (3) adjust LFB and verify clipping; (4) adjust FX to your likes but it's common to induce clipping and then reduce Gain just a bit or reduce FX.

[Edit] Forgot step (5) Move Damper slide aka power-steer to smooth forces till the overall felling is good.

I`m no expert by no means, these are based on what I`ve read abroad and would be gladly if adviced by someone.

I`m a happy user of @Kuku-Maddog files but didn`t tried yet the last version. @Stakanov files are also good to me while passing a light feeling. Standard FFB is "usable" too.

 

It's better to set and forget the driver and adjust Gain to taste in-game.

 

Delta plus Exp 2 added to testing roster in original post.

These are just thinking out load tunes, and not fully optimized in all effects, but just testing out the operating system so to speak.
eeking out the last possibilities of the tuning with a T300 before its removed.