Automobilista 2 Custom Force Feedback - Overview & Recommendations

You understand it corectly now Daniel.
But the reason I suddenly asked this question after a lot of years in AMS2 is only because I got the idea that if I to the contrary of now where I set the FFB to OFF does set it to ON - then I could maybe edit the turning law (transfer law between plastic to virtual wheel) inside the editable FFB file to something like an exponential curve (subtl in the beginning and then more coarse when I turn the wheel more).
But after studying inside the FFB file I cannot see a parameter targeting this "transfer law".
Silly me - but it could be nice if it was possible.

ByTheWay: I just found this quotation from rF2 where the sensibility slider does actually work:
Moving the sensibility slider to the left slows the initial reaction to the wheel's movement.
Moving it to the right increases the response as you first turn the wheel.

 

Just as it is also possible with pedals to adjust these values for gas, brake and clutch in the software (in my case in the Heusinkveld software). If you could use this software without pedals it would be optimal. Of course that will be difficult

 

There is a possibility of making it more sensitive or responsive while leaving sensitivity at 50% so that the virtual wheel matches visually.

this line here
(ratio_scale (/ steer_ratio 8))

increasing the number will increase the ratio of turning the in game wheel does, or in your case decrease the amount of degrees of turn required by your physical wheel .

it will be a constant still so not scaled , but it’s possible that a new calculation can be made to make it scaled vs degrees of turn .

but im not sure that would be the best idea for accuracy .

 

Thanks Kuku for trying to help.
You pinpoint exactly why this doesnt help - because as I understand your explanation then changing this value does the same as changing the wheel lock in the setup menu.
And my problem is allready that to get a somewhat reasonably high turning effect when I turn my wheel to my personal max(about 20 degree) then there is more or less no accuracy in the middle of wheel movement.

ByTheWay: Conserning Daniels proposal of using some other software to change the law (?) of the wheel movement then I dont think it is possible.
The rF2 solution in my pic above where you pretty simple can change the linear law to something more progressive/exponential would have been ideal.

 

This should be what the steering sensitivity setting in AMS2 does, only the "make everything linear" point that is 100% in rF2 is 50 in AMS2. As you decrease below 50 it is conceptually the equivalent of reducing from 100% in rF2, and as you increase above 50 the equivalent of increasing beyond 100% in rF2. Same with the pedal sensitivity settings, 50 is linear in AMS2.

I say "conceptually the equivalent" because we don't know what actual equation is used to calculate the input to output mapping curve, that may differ from rF2. But the idea is the same.

I would imagine that to achieve what you want to you'd need to find the sweet spot between the steering sensitivity rotary on the SRW-S1 and a steering sensitivity setting somewhere below 50 in the game. I'd also suggest that if you alter the wheel's sensitivity setting that you also recalibrate the wheel in the game, given that that wheel setting just changes the wheel's rotation range.

"ByTheWay": I have an SRW-S1 (two actually, the second one is a bit broken so it sits behind my wheelbase to serve as engine RPM LEDs via FanaLEDs!). Before I had the space and funds for a permanent rig I would use the SRW-S1 on a week night because the "proper" wheel and pedals etc (a somewhat elderly Thrustmaster T500RS, cutting edge here!) were too much of a hassle to set up and teardown just for a few quick laps. So I am familiar with what you're using.

 

Principally you are completely right.
But in AMS2 I think I have found why it doesnt work in my situation.
Because I can only turn the wheel about the mentioned +- 20 degree then the effect of the change in "transfer" law doesnt cut in where it should (at higher turning degree).
If I was able to turn as example +- 90 degree then Im sure that I could feel a difference between 0-50-100 in Sensivity setting.
But because Im only is able to use this narrow band then the only difference I can feel is a change in the middle deadzone on the wheel.
It does feel like that.
Hehe and the reason is that when I use a setting of 100 which if I recall right is fully exponientiel then the start of the expo curve is very slow ramping up.
Which gives the feeling of a huge middle deadzone.

OK enough of this. Its my problem and I guess that my revelation of using the FFB file was silly

 

Awesome June dev report.
1.5 should be very interesting considering the release of the Adrenalin pack and the introduction to dirt.

Curious how this will transfer over to the current customs.

I'm sure Reiza have put much more work into it since SMS messed with it, but just for hoots i fired up Pcars2 a couple months back to test it out on the new wheel and dirt was rough no matter what settings i used.

 

I’m reasonably confident it won’t cause any drastic changes, the track mesh will need to be balanced against normal surfaces, otherwise even default users will need to make lots of adjustments each time they select a dirt track .
1.5 based cars have felt great to me without any adjustments in custom file . Just a bit of gain tuning per car .

 

I see it a little differently. For me 1.5 is the biggest improvement and change in physics so far. As a result, the FFB has also changed a lot in defaults but also in the customs. Therefore, for me, an adaptation to current physics is unavoidable. Of course everyone sees it differently and if you are satisfied you can of course leave it as it is

 

Hi Daniel, I've been a big fan of your customs on my DD2. I use Maurices slightly modified version of yours with his recommended settings. Can't wait to see what you have cooking for 1.5

 

@BrunoB I have no idea if this would work well for you and it a bit off subject from your current question.

Something to consider but it is a bit expensive. The wheel i am using is the Logitech direct drive. The wheel rim comes with a gear shifting paddle on each side, but it also comes with duel clutch axis paddles also on each side of the wheel.

You can use those axis and bind them to gas and brake and have a force feedback wheel as well.

I hope you get your problem solved. Wish i had some helpful thoughts on it.

EDIT.
Probably much cheaper options perhaps?

I'm pretty sure i see you at the top of many TT leaderboards. You are fast

 

Just upgraded to the Moza R9 yesterday and have playing around with the pit house settings and driving many laps, this is what I've settled on for now.




FFB Equalizer
10HZ - 100
15HZ - 100
25HZ - 90
40HZ - 80
50HZ - 70

Linear FFB curve

In game
45
0
0
3

All with this custom file

 

That Moza pithouse program looks pretty sweet. I wish Logitech would do something similar for the direct drive wheel

 

It’s Logitech. They earn more money elsewhere for them to care about sim racing

 

Curious if anyone else has noticed this -
I tried Kuku's file and thought it was really good, but even with strength in game and on my wheel at 100% it was noticeably lighter than usual. Is that expected?

I have the logitech g pro @ 11 nm. A full 11 nm in other games is uncomfortably strong for me.

 

which file ?
it’s shouldn’t be lite as the logitech is similar strength to simagic alpha mini . are you running full power in wheel software ?

 

Yes full power in software. I saw Daniel’s post on page 323 regarding the Logitech g pro and how it handles the forces apparently different than expected. I guess that’s the issue most likely

 

Ok .. interesting.

will look into when time allows . but to help understand.

Did you have fx slider up around 30-40 or lower ?
and the same for Damper ?
also does the current default require high gain or moderate gain , say around 60 ?

 

I had been running :

default

gain 80
lfb 2
fx 25
damper 20

on the base (not a lot of logitech driver settings to mess with)
11nm
damper 5 to 20 out of 100
filter ~7 out of 15
trueforce at 100 out 100, but turning it off completely seemed to have no effect on the issue with custom ffb strength

Per car ffb i would put usually 80-90%. it felt pretty good but the custom files were better imo.

With the custom file I used the suggestions listed in the .txt, and then when i realized that turning gain to 100 on the 11nm base wasnt strong enough i started just moving the in-game sliders all over to try to get more strength.

I just, for the first time, took a look at the actual values in the custom ffb file. are there a handful i could tweak to try to get more strength or is it more complicated than that?

I saw you asked which file, originally i used kuku 1.4.6 high freq, and then tried daniel's v70 - the one for higher nm dd and the one for 6-8 nm dd. The 6-8 nm version did feel 'stronger' on my wheel.

 

seems in the ballpark on default . it probably has a larger diameter and possibly heavier wheel which would account for some of the discrepancy.

Short term test solutions in file would be increasing master_rack_scale ,and/or lowering static force reductions .