Automobilista 2 Custom Force Feedback - Overview & Recommendations

Thanks, get no clipping with the profile.
I’ll stick stick within your recommendations as everything works together super nicely and for something like the f3 where I want the ffb a bit stronger I’ll just up my base, and keep keep the sim at 62-65.

 

Exactly. I am scratching my head about those who have a need to wrestle the wheel.
I like to think the approach should be similar to a good audio setup. The speakers need to be able to handle 2-3 times whatever the power amp could ever deliver. Now the important part. Turn down the power amp. At very low volume level - can the speakers still create the 'smiling' on your face you expect? No? The speakers ar rubbish. Yes? Off you go.
In other words the wheel base needs to have head room and even turned down needs to be able to produce the fine details I need. If I crank it up this gets dronwed out be unneccesary noise.
Just my 2 cents.
Cheers.

 

I am using base at 100% and drop it in game.

How wrong this is?

What is right setup order?

 

For your base (if I'm correct?) Thrustmaster T300 it is normal and necessary to use 100% gain. I'm talking about very strong bases from around 20Nm where it is not recommended to use 100% gain

 

I suppose there's a reason why TM default base gain is 75% for TX, T300 and other belt driven.

My TX base gain at 100% shake internally all around even when ingame gain is as low as 50% and smells like burning after 5 to 10 minutes of racing.

Good luck if this don't happen to your T300.

Edit: My base is screwed to a solid wooden rig

 

Something doesn't seem to be working at all with Thrustmaster. So you're saying that you have to reduce your force from 4Nm on the T300 to around 3Nm and the whole wheel wobbles? And its base gets very hot? This looks like a base problem or a problem with the TM software. Was there a recent update to the software at TM? Very strange

 

TBH I think it's more about a nod to safety for high powered bases.

It's like imagine you had an external sound device with headphones plugged in and it had a volume control. And if you put the volume control on that on max and used windows to set the volume to a level that's not rattling your dentures.

Well what happens if some bug or system crash or whatever means it sends a signal to the card at a much higher volume than you set - you get a huge loud sound in your ears.

So common sense would suggest you'd set the max you want on the device if you can such that, whatever the other parts of the system do (intentionally or not) it won't exceed that - and then you'll never make yourself deaf accidentally.

Well given that a lot of DD wheels can put out a lot of force upsold on some flakey premise that running the device at a lower power will be better than having a lower powered device, you kind of want to do the same thing, limit that force in (hopefully) a reliable way at the hardware so that you don't break your wrist if something bad happens and the devices gets a signal telling it to turn the motor maximum attack. I say hopefully because I'm not 100% sure that it's not just another piece of software that you're using at the base that could go wrong anyway - albeit perhaps there's more chance of ending up accidently getting more force than you want if you set your base on 100% and then limit it in the game than the reverse - because the game is more likely to go wrong, crash or you might install another game and forget to lower the gain etc.

This is why they sell big red buttons that cut the power.

But from a perspective of "what is right" - there is nothing. It's pretty subjective. Many of these forces aren't even realistic so you can't use the usual sim racing thing of "Well I want it to be realistic" - the basic profile is probably the closest to that - but you know my guess here is that when someone in a car with no power steering crashes into a just stop oil protestor IRL they're not holding the wheel. Unless you want to end up like the drummer from def leppard realistic forces shouldn't be a goal.

 

I checked and there was an update from TM. A so-called boost to achieve more performance. The downside is problems like some people are having now, with extreme vibration, high heat and loss of FFB details. If you now also have to reduce the gain, what did this update do? I don't think anything good. Above all, the T300 was always a very good and balanced basis with no problems. I would consider going back to the previous version of the update if this is still possible

 

Sorry if I wasn't clear, language problem.
My TM TX functions very well with default settings of 75% Gain and I have notting more than enjoyement in AMS2 and other sims.
But while changing default TM Panel Gain above 90% occours that strange behaviour.
So my gess is that even an ingame gain of 50% combined with 100% at the base can stress the circuits (motors?) by the high voltages available (even if it is not required by the game).
I`m not on electronics so I can be wrong though but I reaffirm there`s a reason why Thrustmaster default base gain to 75%. Upping base gain to 80% it is still ok but I have no reason to change it.

Edit: I always attempt to be up-to-date in drivers and firmware and BOOST feature isn't an option.

 

Hi @Karsten Hvidberg welcome back, good to see you're still tweaking.

 

My T300 base has never turned ffb off because overheating.

Now I have a bit modded base: replaced original noisy fan to noctua and added cooling holes to case.

I have no problems with T300 100% gain.

Maybe rim wobble can occur loosen bets.

 

My 2 cent.

In your files, gain plays a role in FFB curve, not just amplitude.
Perhaps you can change that, freezing df_compression and free the users use gain as a pure gain slider (the game will use that value as a mutiplier).
Your base file was designed to use wheelbase at is maximum and adjust gain in game to achieve the desired force, compressing the signal accordingly.

In my files, gain is just for signal amplitute, and as long as it doesn't clip, adjusting gain in vehicle-specific setting, game gain or on the wheelbase has the same effect, although their should be setting with different goals in mind.

However, I do agree about limiting wheelbase's max torque/power best practice, that's safer.

 

Don't forget we have vehicle-specific gain, changeable while driving. No need to change the overall gain for each car.
Check key/control assignements.

 

With Default/Default+ it's not wrong.

With custom files, depends on the file your're using (see my post above).
Custom files can do whatever they want with GAIN slider (like inverting FFB, amplify car rotation info, change kerbs vibrations, as a power steering control, etc., etc.) but the game will always use that value as a multiplier after the custom file.

See this as a reference but keep in mind it refers exclusively to default profiles, custom files can do different stuff with those sliders (and often they do!),

 

With my TS-PC, I felt at about 75% the wheel starts to round the output (software clipping control), like 75% does 95% of force and the other 25% left only contribute to the remaining 5%, leaving that large non-linear zone. So I used that wheelbase at 75% achieving overall better feeling/detail (with no real detectable ouput power loss).

No software can go behond hardware imposed limits. If the sim sends a 100% signal, the wheel can only do 100% force, not more.

 

Thank you Joachim for your observation. Yes, there are different ways to customize a file and also adjust the settings to a base and ultimately combine it with the in-game values. My goal has always been to make it as easy as possible for all people, regardless of their base. Even for beginners who would otherwise be completely overwhelmed. Select file based on base strength (maybe test 2 files) with recommended in-game settings and recommended base settings for different bases. I think this is very easy for people and it is possible for everyone to find the right file in a short time.
I've also already told Karsten that I won't start over again because things will continue down the rabbit hole. I just don't feel like doing it anymore because the files work wonderfully well for me now. I'd rather drive now and enjoy Ams2.
It's completely okay if other people carry on or try and test new things. For me personally it is no longer necessary at the moment and I can enjoy the simulation

 

Excellent file works very well.

 

Yours v7 custom file.

 

Can someone tell me where to find the latest file by @Stakanov and @Manolo?
Manolo's signature says he uses rFuktor 5.0.1.4 ATMOS MOD v.1.5.3.5 by Stakanov, but he latest version I can find is rFuktor 5.0.1.4 ATMOS MOD v.1.4.

 

Maybe Racedepartment