Automobilista 2 Custom Force Feedback - Overview & Recommendations

Right now, as I type this, all my sliders (gain, lfb, fx and damping) are been used to adjust/fine tune other parameters - that's a way to change values without getting out of the game. Yes, yet more sliders would be good for this! (but it's not their main advantage).
No joy if what we want is rewriting a formula.

I took most info (functions, variables) from other files and, as a kickstart, Reiza gave me what I wanted (and is the core of my file, car acceleration values). I appreciated that help.

 

Anyone liking the idea to have custom file easy and comprehensive customization, please do a Like or Agree here.

 

FullFFB - New Version​

What's new:

• New formulation of several FFB parameters, with particular emphasis on surface details
• More resilience to FFB signal saturation
• Reduced harshness on several dimensions

Still to improve/implement:

• (no roadmap)

 

Thanks mate !!
Yup, Français ! Code ami steam 43693746

 

Good morning!
Increase the damping a little on your base according to your personal taste

 

Even though I only have an old G25 wheel I just tried your latest FFB file and after some tweaking of the in-game sliders, I am impressed. Truth be told I haven't found any custom FFB for AMS2 that I liked in a long, long time, which is why I stuck with Default+ adjusted according to my liking.

Due to me using a lowly gear-driven wheel as opposed to a modern DD one I naturally had to tweak the values from your recommended defaults; Gain I had to increase to 100 in order to get strong enough forces, and after trying various values I settled for an LFB setting of 5 - less and the wheel doesn't feel tight enough around the center, more and I start losing overall detail. Last but not least I had to increase FX from 20 to 55 (50-60 should be okay), otherwise there is just no road surface detail at all due to the weak Logitech wheel motor.

All things considered I am not sure if this is THE most impressive FFB I have ever felt in any simulation, but it sure is up there with the very best. In fact I was shocked to find that I can now consistently achieve significantly higher cornering speeds and even brake later than before, because I was previously under the illusion that I had already reached the limit (whereas I was just slowly approaching it). The only downside is that there are sometimes moments where I don't feel what the rear is doing - usually just for a split-second - but that is quickly remedied when I get loads of detailed information from the front wheels the next moment. Catching slides and spins also seems to be slightly easier, as the reaction of the wheel to what's happening is considerably quicker, IMHO.

Last but not least I read that you recommend setting the FFB in the wheel's software as opposed to using gain, so I will try that. Usually I run 100% in the old Logitech Profiler Software, but I can crank it up to 150% if need be. I'm definitely going to try that now and see how that affects the overall experience. (Especially since I have to increase per-car gain to ~104% otherwise.)

Oh yeah, and I do get some minor clipping now and then according to the telemetry hud, but that is unavoidable with this kind of wheel IMHO. At least if you don't want it to feel wishy-washy.

Keep up the fantastic work! Maybe we can get your custom FFB as another official default option in AMS2 one day.

 

Thanks JP NICE FILE, I am another G27 user needing some tightness around the centre.
please advise. thanks

 

If you look at my post above you'll see I am using a G25, so my tweaks may prove useful to you as well. What I found is that I need to use a little bit of LFB in order to get a tighter center. This is in addition to having to use a higher gain (100), because 65 just isn't enough for these wheels.

So far I've tried LFB values between 3 and 20, and found 5 to be the best compromise between having a tighter center and not losing too much overall detail. You mileage may of course vary.

Oh, and one more thing: I am not sure if this is still advised for the G27, but for the G25 I stumbled upon one crucial tweak that significantly helped with the loose center; that is, setting the centering spring to 10% instead of 0 in the Logitech software. That was a real game changer when I found out about it!

 

Thanks @XTRMNTR2K .
Yes, many think a custom file is a unique set of formulas with just different customizable weights (well, they have reasons to think so). A custom file can be anything, hence the need to explain the premises behind it or else we're starting with the wrong foot .

For a lower power wheel, what should be needed (I really don't know because I cannot test it) is a logarithmic transfer function on the output.
One reason to have more sliders available!
I could/would implement a global "Wheel Strenght" effect easily.

 

The Iracing wheel checker can be used to find the minimum force output, just note that if your results with the wheel checker is 7 then the LFB in AMS2 should be set at 4x this number, so 28 in this example.

Of course this can be adjusted to personal taste, but the wheel checker gives a good starting point.

 

Hi dMASS! I'm really sorry for bothering you here in this forum, but I need to speak with you on a topic related to another game. I found one old topic of yours in another forum, which I would like to ask you a question in private. I tired to find a way to send you a private message here, but I couldn't find a button or something to text you directly. How I can talk with you in private?

 

@XTRMNTR2K (or anyone interested)
You can try this in my file to get more powerfull low end FFB signal (it doesn't affect relationships among different components, just amplifies everything keeping max output the same).
Replace:

Code:

(output (* output gain 0.55))

with:

Code:

(output (* output 0.65 0.55))
(output (* (signo output) (power (abs output) (* (- 1 gain) 2))))

The GAIN slider will act like this:

• at 50 it does linear output, the same as original file (slashed red)
• >50 it does a low force boost (blue line)
• <50 it does the opposite (it doesn't matter to you )

ps - I haven't tested this code myself

 

Do you mean the in-game damping? With the Default+ profile you can reduce the oscillation very well by increasing the NDP value in the Fanatec DD1. I have no oscillation with the settings

 

First off, thanks a lot for taking the time to figure this out. I just tried it, and the first thing I noticed was my wheel rattling like crazy at standstill. After settling for 70-75 ingame gain and reducing LFB to 0 things get a little better overall but I am still getting a significant amount of wheel shake when standing still, though.

The good news: There is more tightness at the center - steering resistance is much higher than before. The bad news is that this tends to drown out most other effects (and makes steering a tiresome affair across the board). Also haven't figured out an ideal FX value yet, as some of the "rattling" effects are still too pronounced when you otherwise barely get any road noise.

Question: Which of the values would I need to adjust if I wanted to lessen the built-in LFB effect and flatten the curve to be closer to a being linear? I assume the first two numbers in the first line are the ones I want to change, just not sure how yet. Either way, I think I'll fiddle around with them for a bit.

If I find something that works for my wheel (better than what I had dialed in yesterday) I'll post it here.

 

Interesting

Moza has such FFB curvatures to chose from and i am using it in some sims&cars combo but with your custom FFB I really didntvfeel the need

Will give that parameter a try to see how that differs from Moza offering

 

After playing a bit with the numbers I ended up reverting to the stock V9 files, and my in-game FFB settings are now as follows:

Gain: 90
LFB: 10
FX: 0
Damping: 0

These settings provide great and very direct sense of connection to the car and the road. While setting FX to 0 removes the (artificial?) road noise I can still feel enough of the vertical forces through the wheel, i.e. when going over kerbs. The upside is that the feedback feels much more "pure" and the forces are very well-balanced thanks to the linear approach. (Additionally, it's also possible to remove LFB altogether, but I like the extra tightness a setting between 5 and 15 provides here.)

 

Correct, i'm talking about the in game damping. If you haven't any oscillations probably is because you have your total FFB gain lower than 7Nm or even lower or you have lowered the in game dampening. I found that i get the best FFB with Maurice fanalab profiles which it has profiles for every car auto loading in fanalab. Someone gave me a link for it a few pages back.

 

I guess we'll have to put that formula before in the pipeline.
When I have some time, I'll do it.

Yes, that's to be expected. You can always put something more to your liking, but I guess what you feel is similar to what I feel.

 

With LFB slider at 0, you have "linearity", or better said, what I build to call linear (a set of values and formulas that I define as the base signal). This slider affects low frequency rack forces and fx.
The two lines I posted are:

1. to neutralize GAIN as gain
2. To create an overall non linearity, but at that stage it also affect standing still forces, and it shouldn't... my bad.

There is no artificial road noise in my file.
The artificial signals in my file are high frequency/low amplitude off road noise (superimposed on an already existing artificial offroad created by AMS2, going slow we can really perceive a sine function there ), scrub effects and engine vibrations. These last too are affected by LFB slider.

 

Probably a stupid question (sorry, I can't brain today ), but what am I actually missing out by setting FX to 0 when using your file? Fine grain road noise, I assume? I'm just asking because apparently my wheel really struggles to convey both these FX forces as well as all the other ones - and if I have to choose, I think I'll stick with the main forces acting on the steering.