Automobilista 2 Custom Force Feedback - Overview & Recommendations

Hi Gert,

1)
It's lisp syntax, but not much more. No functions can be declared.
Assignments are like:
(a 1)
that puts 1 in the "a" variable.

The exception is if "a" is some function, like "smooth", if which case:
(smooth arg1 arg2)
returns the result of the smooth function given the 2 args.

To assign function result to "a":
(a (smooth arg1 arg2))

2)
Sample rate is 300hz or so.

3)
Yes.


I hope this helps,

Best,

-K

 

Didn't take much altering in the end to get it 47 how I wanted.
Master rack up to 1.2
Master road 1.75
Power steering up to 0.2 made the most difference, feels great in all the cars I tried.
All the relax centres up a bit.
Large bump scale up a bit.
70,15,60,1.

 

it could be that 47 gets me off 45.

took extensive notes with setup. bad rep of sim is now undeserved.

i adjusted my settings in the meantime for 44 and 45, and now 47. lfb using high end on a lol ahem! tx wheel.... is 55, then 60 for fx, then 40 for damping. gain is 100 in the main but most cars bar 1 or 2 are down around 65-75 on a per car basis. (i adjust lfb and dampener later down as it opens up revealing more depth and detail. I left foot brake a lot and like texture and substance to the finer inputs, this all helps.)

lfb as we know does the center, fx etc etc and gain moreso the curves, thus I try to blend all nicely and get that auto move/must correct feeling a car does.

now you would not believe this, or maybe having used 47 as such you in fact do believe this: but its like I took a piece of large plastic, and its smooth on a straight but you know you are going over friction...and in the center on a turn it is scuffed...yes? and you feel that and the extra grip.

In short, I base this on a shoe perhaps going over a large flat object and thus it has turned an inanimate object into the sense of moving across 4 tyres and load.

well done on 47. oulton park short course (been great to drive and test on lately), p1 ginetta 558. the steering optics are better than ever. by which I mean how to resolve what to do, its detailed and gives perspective thus i feel its closer to driving than ever before. the pollution of that is gone in 47, so cool

and i must state the brakes have become spongy-good, so thats great as well, real brake bounce and the steering resistance is good, so between the physics and the ffb, i think the game went to a whole new level.

and also I welcome the lightness on accel too because its become like it probably should be, on accel you tend to skip over things as such, and the lightness reflects that well.

obviously the best interpretation of this thing so far.

edit: and now damping down to 30 -oooh thats the sign of a good file surely; and in response to that dropped lfb down to 52 from 55 - original was 50 prior version. willing to have that input there significant upside, but being a tx and a DD file it is - thus I see the graph clipping on those hard turns forcing a slight lowering - and the feel from this is overall improved; if the lfb is too high, the center steering resistance is too obtuse and not detailed enough its like someone slapping you with a block of wood. good balancing from me maybe because prior it was all 'dampened out' further than this. obviously a better wheel would provide better results. very happy with this 47 and outcome. I chose nordschlief 24/7 (track as well) to get some long sustained readings in there.

see, 55 lfb clips and thus the wood-hit effect mid turn movement, but 52 retains the rubberised feel mid adjustment as well as curb feel. well done once more; a 2 point improvement may not seem like much, but eeking it out of this wheel though it be unintended consequence is only a good thing. overall is what I am more concerned with and as stated found this outcome very good.

edit 2: since that 'very good outcome' thought I would keep going lol until it was not 'very good'. I got down to 20 dampening. My impression has once again improved, and I can definitely live with 20 dampening. it reveals details I formerly wanted hidden back in the 30s but its so good now.

edit 3: and just so we're clear I test these all with proper suspensions. i.e no grip loss or none of that slidy stuff, example is why I am even typing this - I had to tune down my fast bump and the other one down a notch each (but NOT slow bump) even after I set up everything else (and forgot to do that, drivetain is 80 and 55, which could come down to 79 i guess). its important to add because the tyres are a part of the suspension and i used it half and half of course its better than before. and front spring is 152, and camber is down a degree front and back, and toe in on front .1 to keep it positive, back toe is -.4. drives wonderfully across a variety of tracks with minimal adjustment from that. brake at 95+% ur choice and front opening at 70 (maybe not the best for a long drive but it seems to help aero a fair bit or stability in turns with the air or some such maybe stabilizes the car better; but maybe that setting leaks elsewhere in the physics?) vehicle specific ffb is 75% on a tx wheel

so with the ffb at 47, all that and the setup of the car at nordschleife, its an excellent sim. its bad rep is now definitely undeserved. not sure on realism but leaps and bounds is a word i otherwise use with everything

edit 4: dampening now 10. its my opinion a tx wheel will need a lot of dampening as it does not do the detail as well, but with just 10 dampening this game revealed a lot more texture and useable texture at that -- some minor stuff still muddies things too much below that as 10 dampening seems to be a sweet spot and not much muddyness there (60 fx is heaps too, 50 some may like, between the 2 is a fine middle ground on a tx, but all in all they have a crystal and its being polished. plotting this 47 version on any quadrant graph you will probably find it further to the right and top and by a significant distance; I do not mean complete muddyness, its not gunky - rather its too much un-fine detail that could be finer, but at least I know the wheel is at a limit of sorts and the ffb is exceptional I would say...so 10 dampening means it brings to it all a clarity and cohesiveness, which is not a complaint).

 

I have same wheelbase as you, but I doubt I could even drive anything with that high Gain. Mine is down around the 30. What do you have the FFB set on the wheelbase?

 

Thanks Vivian

This has helped nicely for my wheel too.
Obviously not the same in game settings , but in file mods work well.
Wheel feels more solid and life like .

 

100ff 100 force I think, running the latest drivers, not beta.

 

Hey DD1/2 users, I’m keen to give the latest Silver King another go... what wheel/in game settings do you recommend please? I hear you dial it in quite differently to default and I generally like med-heavy FFB.

Many thanks in advance,
Rob

 

Hi Alegunner68 are you using the fanatec 381 RC driver with the latest motor firmware v22. I had to put FEI down to zero with your settings, not sure if that's right. Are you using High or Mid file? Glad you are back on the forum..

 

OK, I also have a CSW2.5 and I am finding these settings very good so far. I will drive for a few days to get used to them. I would be most grateful if you can expand on what "up a bit" was for your relax centre and Large Bump scale.

 

I have found 1.0 relax values good in the past and did the same here. Gives me a fast moving centre. I think I went up to 5.0 on large bumps , can’t quite recall, but I think default was 3.0. went up a couple anyway.

I have a different wheel though.

 

Thanks Marcin, I think that's the one, and v.22, fei around 50 with the high file.

I think they're rounded off to 1.0 and bump scale is up one or two, similar to @Kuku Maddog , it fills out the straight line feeling nicely.

 

Hi Alegunner68. Thank you for the reply. Are you finding motor v22 bit notchy, I'm using v20 which is much smother. Also what are yours damper and spr setting on the wheel?

 

Hi Karsten!

could you please try it, the other way around. your incredible steering wheel custom ffb setting will be much better, which is already unimaginably good.

If you set the gain low in the control panel and set max in the game, you will see that all 5 blue lines in thelemetry move.

If I set the force as you write here

"Important: On any wheel base is is best to up the force of the wheel base & lower the "gain" correspondingly in the game. This to avoid in-game compression of the FFB and allowing high downforce cars the biggest possible range of forces."

, only the 1st and 2nd blue move.

I have simhub and in controls and events you can add the ffb strength on a button (TM control panel,control..)for Increase or decrease the wheel gain in every car on every track.

I don't always need to restart the game.

In the control panel,T300rs
I have set the force
50-100-100-100-100
but on the track i decrease the force to 38-45 for the wheel!

100% gain in the game is important

and in the game
100! 20-40-0
100! 40-20-0
. But if the last turns red, then reduce the LFB and FX

thank you,and sorry for google translate

 

I've been meaning to ask about the same for a while. With the 911 GT1 for example I have in-game gain at 35, and wheel base FFB at 75 (Fanatec DD1). At Eau-Rouge/Radillion I just about touch the 4th bar in the Telemetry HUD with those settings. At a track with less/no high speed corners, for instance historic Hockenheim, I stay in the first two bars...
Any tips for how to use a greater range of the forces available?

 

Anything specific you are missing? By all means try 100 gain in game and low DD1 settings but I have tested it and it feels horrible

 

@torsteinvh & @pista hufnagel

The Telemetry HUD only displays what is generated from within the game. What matters is what force you get in your hands from your wheel base & that it is not a crumbled signal.
Any game will try and make it so the signal is not being compromised "too much", that is the same for the custom file. The in-game "gain" is simply a scale on the force. It does not give you any feel-able difference in resolution between gain of 30 and gain of 100, but at gain 100 the forces are scaled up so high that there is no room for down-force, no room for forces to scale up based on velocity & no room for much on any speedy cornering, where the clipping algorithms will do their best to still make it possible for you to feel the difference in load and the various effects.

Really gain at 100 is only meaningful on weak wheel bases that are also not abel to make you feel the subtle differences, but where it is important to have as high force signal as possible instead.

Simply put:
- The lower the in-game gain, the more difference & details will be present in the signal going to the wheel base.
- The higher the in-game gain, the less difference in the output, less details and increased clipping.

For DD wheel bases you can easily run low gains. For high end belts you can run mid level gains. Under all circumstances you want to lower "gain" as much as possible, but it becomes a compromise: Details/finesse vs force. So on weaker wheel bases you have to pick your poison.

 

Not missing anything, but coming from a photography background I'm used to 'using the whole histogram', so I was just curious about missing out by not having all the bars on the Telemetry HUD active

But from what Karsten wrote in the post above I see that is not the case.

 

I’ve always run low gain , and used lfb boost to generate firmness to relaxed wheel. I’ve been bringing the two closer together lately due to the way the files limit the higher forces a bit more.
I often get surprised by how high or heavy some have there gain, as it make my wheel to stiff to feel the tire grip variation.
I only use the Telemetry to view the wave. As it shows me when scrub effects are causing fast high frequency movements in the wave which tend to create unwanted vibrations .

 

try to use lower ffb in wheel and high in game
driver 402 dd1 maclaren gt3 v1
ff 35
dpr off
in game 60/20/50/30/0
and adjust the gain per car
hope this helps

 

V22 feels great for me, not notchy at all.
By damper do you mean dri? That's on -2, and spring is on 0.