Automobilista 2 Force Feedback Overview & Recommendations

Of course ! Been using these for more than 3 years now and it has always been perfect even with the physics changes for 1.6, still works perfectly.

 

Anyone has the Fanatec DD+ wheelbase mind to share their Fanalab settings and in game setting would be much appreciated.

 

The oval and non-oval variants are like two different cars in the game. So, to confirm, take the same car to a different oval and try a different car from the same class at the same tracks (oval and non-oval). Then, you can pin down if the problem is the specific car or something to do with the ovals.

 

@Marc Collins collins When I get back from work I will confirm. However, I will say I did try multiple cars on the same oval. And it was only the one in the video that was giving me grief.

 

FWIW, here are the in-game wheelbase presets (Gain/LFB/FX/Damping/Menu) as currently provided by Reiza in AMS2:

Fanatec
DD2 Formula V2 Rim: 35/2/25/60/10
DD1 Formula V2 Rim: 35/2/25/60/10
Wheel Base: 35/2/25/60/10

CSL DD: 60/7/50/50/10

Porsche 911 Turbo: 75/50/50/0/40
Porsche 911 GT2: 75/50/50/0/40
Porsche 911 Turbo GT2: 75/50/50/0/40
Porsche 911 Turbo GT3RS: 75/50/50/0/40
CSR: 75/50/50/0/40
CSR Elite: 75/50/50/0/40
CSW: 75/50/50/0/40
CSW V2: 75/50/50/0/40
CSW V2.5: 75/50/50/0/40
CSL Elite: 75/50/50/0/40

Simucube
Simucube 1: 40/0/25/50/3
Simucube 2 Sport: 40/0/25/50/3
Simucube 2 Pro: 40/0/25/50/3
Simucube 2 Ultimate: 40/0/25/50/3

Thrustmaster
RGT FF Clutch: 75/50/50/0/40
Ferrari GT Experience: 75/50/50/0/40
Ferrari F440 FF: 75/50/50/0/40
Ferrari F1 Wheel Integral T500: 75/50/50/0/40
T500 RS: 75/50/50/0/40
T300 RS: 75/50/50/0/40
Ferrari F1 Wheel Advanced T300: 75/50/50/0/40
Ferrari F438 FF: 75/50/50/0/40
T150: 75/50/50/0/40
TMX: 75/50/50/0/40
TS-XW: 75/50/50/0/40
TS-PC Racer: 75/50/50/0/40
TX F1 Advanced: 75/50/50/0/40

Logitech
G25: 100/60/50/0/40
G37: 100/60/50/0/40

G29: 80/50/20/10/40
G920: 80/50/20/10/40
G923: 80/50/20/10/40

G PRO: 40/0/25/50/3
RS50: 40/0/25/50/3

Driving Force: 75/50/50/0/40
Driving Force Pro: 75/50/50/0/40
Driving Force GT: 75/50/50/0/40
MOMO Force: 75/50/50/0/40
MOMO Racing: 75/50/50/0/40

MISC
Direct Drive Generic: 40/0/25/50/3
Custom: 75/50/50/0/2
Legacy: 75/50/50/0/2

 

I misled you, slightly. There are three versions of each of these F-USA cars, not two. The problem is with the "Superspeedway" version of the particular Lola and it will do the same bad behaviour at any Superspeedway. It works fine at "Speedways" (smaller ovals) and road courses. The custom skin you are using does not affect the problem. Even more confusing, Historic Fontana is a Superspeedway, but the modern version is a Speedway.

 

It's all good, it's still relevant to know which variants are bugged. So now the dev team can focus on the correct issue and hopefully get this taken care of. We eliminated variables which is the point of AB testing. Less work overall. In my personal opinion.

 

I'm in the same boat. Just got a DD+ and it seems a bit different from the settings I liked on my DD1. Does anyone have good Fanatec software settings for the DD+?

 

Has anyone else experienced an oscillation problem when taking hands off the wheel at speed? Obviously I don't plan to go round driving with my hands off the wheel but there is significant effort required to hold the steering wheel still down straights when in other games such as ACC or ACE I don't have this issue.

I have a Moza R3 for reference and have tried various settings in Moza Pit House to eliminate this ('Hands off protection' seemed like the most obvious answer), but to no avail. I also have the Silver Raw custom FFB file installed (I think) but also there is no difference between any of the FFB profiles. I've tried playing about with damping, speed sensitive damping, gain etc. and I can't seem to single out this one aspect of the FFB in AMS2 only

 

Seems common on R3.
I imagine an R3 requires a lot of gain and perhaps lfb to get much strength out if it.
Oscillation normally comes because the centre is too saturated and too tight .
many custom files have too aggressive centre and smoothing of rack that causes signal wave timing anomalies of left to right rack .

I certainly don’t get oscillating with my custom , so not all files are the same by the way.

 

Hey Daniel, how's it going?

I've been meaning to thank you, @Karsten Hvidberg and the whole crew that helped to develop this latest ffb custom file, I have been using the Moza R9 version and it is super impressive how close it feels to mine AC setup.

I'm just coming back to the hobby, finally! and I'm super happy that you guys kept developing custom files. I truly hope you can keep up with Reizas physiscs updates just to maintain this custom file as it is, it is top quality! really worth having as an option ffb.

Thanks again, merry xmas to you guys and happy new year!

 

Regarding the new default+ profile and VRS DFP20 using the new Next Gen FFB by VRS, myself and several others on VRS discord channel have noticed a horrendous vibration/sound/feeling coming through the base.
It's very hard to describe but from experience it seems to kick in at higher speeds and almost feels like metal on metal rubbing.

Default and base custom do not have this.

Any idea what effect this might be? My assumption was the drive train pulse.

If so, what frequency is that running at? Maybe we can alleviate that in our software.
Other than that, the Default+ would be more preferred ffb profile.

 

If you can, try to filter out the 80-100Hz range. High range DD's can easily produce super fine details in abundance. I've done that with SC3 successfully in several titles. Otherwise, Default should have less of that.

 

I've just switched to the 12nm Clubsport DD base, a few days testing (mostly Supercup, GT1, GT3 etc) I've settled on these for now, I'm no FFB expert but with these I like the weight of the steering resistance for longer stints, good feeling of weight transfer when turning in and really informative self aligning torque on corner exit.

Fanatec Control Panel (Driver 474)
SEN - AUTO
FFB - 70%
FUL - OFF
NDP - 10%
NFN - 4%
NIN - 3%
INT - 4
FEI - 80
FOR - 100
SPR - OFF
DPR - OFF

AMS 2
Default+
Gain - 50 to 53 (depends on car/track combo)
LFB - 0
FX - 24 (+1 / -1)
Damping - 30
Menu - 20

Be interested to here anyone's thoughts or suggestions, coming from a CSW V2.5 I've noticed that small incremental changes are way more pronounced on the DD.

 

Thanks

 

To me it feels like the last update has taken out or rather "tamed" the FFB of an aggressive feeling. Especially with slicks. The just don't "bite" into the asphalt as before. Feels a litle numb. I've tried all sorts of different settings. Any ideas?

 

FYI, this is my DD+ settings for GT3 cars.

Fanatec setting
SEN - AUTO
FFB - 80 ~ 100%
FUL - OFF
NDP - 15%
NFR - 4%
NIN - 2%
INT - 1
FEI - 100
FOR - 100
SPR - 100
DPR - 100

In Game FFB
Default profile
Gain : 45
LFB : 0
FX : 8
Damping : 2
Menu : 10

 

So,can anyone who uses a TS-PC wheel post the settings ingame to end my confusion?
I use default (not custom) and default + but how much damping is the question to me?
TS-PC Racer: 75/50/50/0/40 is for custom FFB right?
Maybe @Grizzly ?

 

Difficulty getting consistent results with RS50 base settings. At one point I will have FFB before starting a run, but when I get on the track FFB drops to near nothing. Has anyone got their settings working and can they pass the along so I can get back on the track? Current settings: 6nm, TF Audio 50, FFB Filter 8, Dampener 35, Angle 360, Compatibility Pro Wheel, and Platform is PC.

 

I don't know the details of your wheel, but it is a good quality mechanical/belt wheel. Aside from watching the video I posted above so you will know how to set up your own wheel properly, the three key points are:

1. Before you even look at game settings, you need to ensure your wheel base has all neutral settings
2. No possible way you would need 50 for LFB. I have what is probably a similar wheel and I use 5 for LFB. The goal is to use the lowest possible amount and you don't need any if the wheel feels fine at centre (while driving) with it at 0. Most DD wheels would use 0 or 1.
3. There is no possibility that 0 Damping is a good value (an any wheel). Start at 25 and see how it feels. Then try 0 and then 50. Which is best of the three and which is second best? Work up or down from first place towards second place. Highly unlikely you would need to go above 50, but if 50 feels much better than 25 then try 75. After you have a first and second choice, try steps in between them until you hit the sweet spot.

There is no short cut or copying and pasting that works given all the different hardware out there and all the ways we can screw-up the wheel base settings. Since you can change the values in a session while you drive (paused to change them), take the 10 minutes to find what feels and works best for you (which may not be the same as for me, even if we had the identical hardware and setups).